The rotors have a little lip on the outside edge but don't seem to have any other issues. Do they need to be turned? They don't feel warped.
Turning Rotors
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If you want to be safe they must be measured for minimum thickness.
Many times here we have "pad slapped" a fleet truck if the rotors were near perfect. Turn them if there's runout, pad deposits, etc...
Many times here we have "pad slapped" a fleet truck if the rotors were near perfect. Turn them if there's runout, pad deposits, etc...
If they're within tolerance, just pad slap it and move on.
Make sure you bed the new pads properly once installed.
Make sure you bed the new pads properly once installed.
If the rotor is OK and in thickness spec, I usually sand off the inner and outer ridges. While I'm at it, I put a little texture on the working surface of the rotor (not much, the rotor steel is hard). Then I clean the rotors and put them back in service with new pads. It's worked well for me.
Assuming that you have a floating caliper setup in the front, the measurement to take is the thickness variation of the rotor. Measure the rotor in 8 or ten positions across the face of the rotors with a micrometer, the difference between the highest and lowest measurement is what will cause a brake pulsation as the caliper piston is driven in and out. As for the lip, you may find that the lip touches the new brake pad and may squeak at you until it wears in. Rotors don't really "warp".
Originally Posted By: Cyclicrate
Assuming that you have a floating caliper setup in the front, the measurement to take is the thickness variation of the rotor. Measure the rotor in 8 or ten positions across the face of the rotors with a micrometer, the difference between the highest and lowest measurement is what will cause a brake pulsation as the caliper piston is driven in and out. As for the lip, you may find that the lip touches the new brake pad and may squeak at you until it wears in. Rotors don't really "warp".
Bunk. Although not many warp
Most are as you discribe, but I've seen a few where the hat tracks straight and the disk face walks back and forth
I've also seen new ones with runout and thickness variation, but not for a while
Assuming that you have a floating caliper setup in the front, the measurement to take is the thickness variation of the rotor. Measure the rotor in 8 or ten positions across the face of the rotors with a micrometer, the difference between the highest and lowest measurement is what will cause a brake pulsation as the caliper piston is driven in and out. As for the lip, you may find that the lip touches the new brake pad and may squeak at you until it wears in. Rotors don't really "warp".
Bunk. Although not many warp
Most are as you discribe, but I've seen a few where the hat tracks straight and the disk face walks back and forth
I've also seen new ones with runout and thickness variation, but not for a while
If the braking was OK before (no pulsation) then sand or wire brush the rotor, clean it and slap on new pads.
What Donald said is my normal brake job. Mostly clean , lube and pad slap
"Bunk," lol.
Excessive runout leads to excessive thickness variation, are we disagreeing? I too have seen new in the box rotors with out of spec runout and thx variation, but that is a manufacturing tolerance issue, they weren't "warped" by the normal operation of the brakes. I hear this myth propagated all the time.
Excessive runout leads to excessive thickness variation, are we disagreeing? I too have seen new in the box rotors with out of spec runout and thx variation, but that is a manufacturing tolerance issue, they weren't "warped" by the normal operation of the brakes. I hear this myth propagated all the time.
Originally Posted By: hansj3
Originally Posted By: Cyclicrate
Assuming that you have a floating caliper setup in the front, the measurement to take is the thickness variation of the rotor. Measure the rotor in 8 or ten positions across the face of the rotors with a micrometer, the difference between the highest and lowest measurement is what will cause a brake pulsation as the caliper piston is driven in and out. As for the lip, you may find that the lip touches the new brake pad and may squeak at you until it wears in. Rotors don't really "warp".
Bunk. Although not many warp
Most are as you discribe, but I've seen a few where the hat tracks straight and the disk face walks back and forth
I've also seen new ones with runout and thickness variation, but not for a while
we turn new ones.way too many combacks if we dont.new ones are often warped right out of the box
Originally Posted By: Cyclicrate
Assuming that you have a floating caliper setup in the front, the measurement to take is the thickness variation of the rotor. Measure the rotor in 8 or ten positions across the face of the rotors with a micrometer, the difference between the highest and lowest measurement is what will cause a brake pulsation as the caliper piston is driven in and out. As for the lip, you may find that the lip touches the new brake pad and may squeak at you until it wears in. Rotors don't really "warp".
Bunk. Although not many warp
Most are as you discribe, but I've seen a few where the hat tracks straight and the disk face walks back and forth
I've also seen new ones with runout and thickness variation, but not for a while
we turn new ones.way too many combacks if we dont.new ones are often warped right out of the box
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Originally Posted By: hansj3
Originally Posted By: Cyclicrate
Assuming that you have a floating caliper setup in the front, the measurement to take is the thickness variation of the rotor. Measure the rotor in 8 or ten positions across the face of the rotors with a micrometer, the difference between the highest and lowest measurement is what will cause a brake pulsation as the caliper piston is driven in and out. As for the lip, you may find that the lip touches the new brake pad and may squeak at you until it wears in. Rotors don't really "warp".
Bunk. Although not many warp
Most are as you discribe, but I've seen a few where the hat tracks straight and the disk face walks back and forth
I've also seen new ones with runout and thickness variation, but not for a while
we turn new ones.way too many combacks if we dont.new ones are often warped right out of the box
What brand of rotors are you using? We've not experienced that in our shop at all. Though the lack of quality in aftermarket parts never surprises me .
Originally Posted By: hansj3
Originally Posted By: Cyclicrate
Assuming that you have a floating caliper setup in the front, the measurement to take is the thickness variation of the rotor. Measure the rotor in 8 or ten positions across the face of the rotors with a micrometer, the difference between the highest and lowest measurement is what will cause a brake pulsation as the caliper piston is driven in and out. As for the lip, you may find that the lip touches the new brake pad and may squeak at you until it wears in. Rotors don't really "warp".
Bunk. Although not many warp
Most are as you discribe, but I've seen a few where the hat tracks straight and the disk face walks back and forth
I've also seen new ones with runout and thickness variation, but not for a while
we turn new ones.way too many combacks if we dont.new ones are often warped right out of the box
What brand of rotors are you using? We've not experienced that in our shop at all. Though the lack of quality in aftermarket parts never surprises me .
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Originally Posted By: hansj3
Originally Posted By: Cyclicrate
Assuming that you have a floating caliper setup in the front, the measurement to take is the thickness variation of the rotor. Measure the rotor in 8 or ten positions across the face of the rotors with a micrometer, the difference between the highest and lowest measurement is what will cause a brake pulsation as the caliper piston is driven in and out. As for the lip, you may find that the lip touches the new brake pad and may squeak at you until it wears in. Rotors don't really "warp".
Bunk. Although not many warp
Most are as you discribe, but I've seen a few where the hat tracks straight and the disk face walks back and forth
I've also seen new ones with runout and thickness variation, but not for a while
we turn new ones.way too many combacks if we dont.new ones are often warped right out of the box
What brand of rotors are you using? We've not experienced that in our shop at all. Though the lack of quality in aftermarket parts never surprises me .
napa rotors give us the most trouble. Autozones are actully very good... Go figure. Concentric is ok too
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Originally Posted By: hansj3
Originally Posted By: Cyclicrate
Assuming that you have a floating caliper setup in the front, the measurement to take is the thickness variation of the rotor. Measure the rotor in 8 or ten positions across the face of the rotors with a micrometer, the difference between the highest and lowest measurement is what will cause a brake pulsation as the caliper piston is driven in and out. As for the lip, you may find that the lip touches the new brake pad and may squeak at you until it wears in. Rotors don't really "warp".
Bunk. Although not many warp
Most are as you discribe, but I've seen a few where the hat tracks straight and the disk face walks back and forth
I've also seen new ones with runout and thickness variation, but not for a while
we turn new ones.way too many combacks if we dont.new ones are often warped right out of the box
What brand of rotors are you using? We've not experienced that in our shop at all. Though the lack of quality in aftermarket parts never surprises me .
napa rotors give us the most trouble. Autozones are actully very good... Go figure. Concentric is ok too
I have not turned rotors in years, they are so cheap just buy new ones.
Originally Posted By: Cyclicrate
"Bunk," lol.
Excessive runout leads to excessive thickness variation, are we disagreeing? I too have seen new in the box rotors with out of spec runout and thx variation, but that is a manufacturing tolerance issue, they weren't "warped" by the normal operation of the brakes. I hear this myth propagated all the time.
We are not really disagreeing at all. I know the ase has the opinion that rotors don't warp, they wear funny, and 99.9% agree with that.
But I had that 1 in a thousand where the thickness was consistent all the way around , there were no pad artifacts, and I guess the most accurate term us warp. very little pulsation(still there) but there was a shake I couldn't find at speed. I thought it was drive line at first
I also had a new Napa rotor that was machined that way from the factory
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Originally Posted By: hansj3
Originally Posted By: Cyclicrate
Assuming that you have a floating caliper setup in the front, the measurement to take is the thickness variation of the rotor. Measure the rotor in 8 or ten positions across the face of the rotors with a micrometer, the difference between the highest and lowest measurement is what will cause a brake pulsation as the caliper piston is driven in and out. As for the lip, you may find that the lip touches the new brake pad and may squeak at you until it wears in. Rotors don't really "warp".
Bunk. Although not many warp
Most are as you discribe, but I've seen a few where the hat tracks straight and the disk face walks back and forth
I've also seen new ones with runout and thickness variation, but not for a while
we turn new ones.way too many combacks if we dont.new ones are often warped right out of the box
What brand of rotors are you using? We've not experienced that in our shop at all. Though the lack of quality in aftermarket parts never surprises me .
Napa rotors were my aftermarket before i got my new gig. Now its oem... and i dont even work at a dealer... eBay [censored] too
"Bunk," lol.
Excessive runout leads to excessive thickness variation, are we disagreeing? I too have seen new in the box rotors with out of spec runout and thx variation, but that is a manufacturing tolerance issue, they weren't "warped" by the normal operation of the brakes. I hear this myth propagated all the time.
We are not really disagreeing at all. I know the ase has the opinion that rotors don't warp, they wear funny, and 99.9% agree with that.
But I had that 1 in a thousand where the thickness was consistent all the way around , there were no pad artifacts, and I guess the most accurate term us warp. very little pulsation(still there) but there was a shake I couldn't find at speed. I thought it was drive line at first
I also had a new Napa rotor that was machined that way from the factory
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Originally Posted By: hansj3
Originally Posted By: Cyclicrate
Assuming that you have a floating caliper setup in the front, the measurement to take is the thickness variation of the rotor. Measure the rotor in 8 or ten positions across the face of the rotors with a micrometer, the difference between the highest and lowest measurement is what will cause a brake pulsation as the caliper piston is driven in and out. As for the lip, you may find that the lip touches the new brake pad and may squeak at you until it wears in. Rotors don't really "warp".
Bunk. Although not many warp
Most are as you discribe, but I've seen a few where the hat tracks straight and the disk face walks back and forth
I've also seen new ones with runout and thickness variation, but not for a while
we turn new ones.way too many combacks if we dont.new ones are often warped right out of the box
What brand of rotors are you using? We've not experienced that in our shop at all. Though the lack of quality in aftermarket parts never surprises me .
Napa rotors were my aftermarket before i got my new gig. Now its oem... and i dont even work at a dealer... eBay [censored] too
I'm tempted to turn the rotors from my Camry--at $90 apiece it seems cost effective to at least try.
However I replaced them, so now I'm tripping over the old rotors in the basement. Looks like they barely wore actually; but they need to be turned as they got thicker from rust bubbling them outward.
So now I'm wondering, should both have the same amount removed from each rotor, or does it not matter if one is turned more than the other? I'm guessing it really doesn't matter.
However I replaced them, so now I'm tripping over the old rotors in the basement. Looks like they barely wore actually; but they need to be turned as they got thicker from rust bubbling them outward.
So now I'm wondering, should both have the same amount removed from each rotor, or does it not matter if one is turned more than the other? I'm guessing it really doesn't matter.
My brakes were pulsating really badly when coming to a stop. I just bought a set of rotors for $36 and slapped them on. Everything is nice and smooth now.
Buying new rotors for $36 seemed a lot more convenient than taking the old ones off and trying to work them and make them smooth again.
Buying new rotors for $36 seemed a lot more convenient than taking the old ones off and trying to work them and make them smooth again.
Originally Posted By: jmsjags
My brakes were pulsating really badly when coming to a stop. I just bought a set of rotors for $36 and slapped them on. Everything is nice and smooth now.
Buying new rotors for $36 seemed a lot more convenient than taking the old ones off and trying to work them and make them smooth again.
Agree.
I either just slap on new pad if rotor is in good condition, or change it to new one.
My brakes were pulsating really badly when coming to a stop. I just bought a set of rotors for $36 and slapped them on. Everything is nice and smooth now.
Buying new rotors for $36 seemed a lot more convenient than taking the old ones off and trying to work them and make them smooth again.
Agree.
I either just slap on new pad if rotor is in good condition, or change it to new one.
There is a company on ebay called fastsource_autoparts
I bought two sets of rotors from them this past year.
Both times I got stoptech rotors and pads, they do not list the name in the listing, but I think I paid $65 for a set of front rotors with pads for a toyota application.
On rockauto or advance auto I would have paid double that amount.
Rotors were very good quality much better than the advance auto "golds" I had on there before.
I bought two sets of rotors from them this past year.
Both times I got stoptech rotors and pads, they do not list the name in the listing, but I think I paid $65 for a set of front rotors with pads for a toyota application.
On rockauto or advance auto I would have paid double that amount.
Rotors were very good quality much better than the advance auto "golds" I had on there before.
Originally Posted By: JustinH
There is a company on ebay called fastsource_autoparts
I bought two sets of rotors from them this past year.
Both times I got stoptech rotors and pads, they do not list the name in the listing, but I think I paid $65 for a set of front rotors with pads for a toyota application.
On rockauto or advance auto I would have paid double that amount.
Rotors were very good quality much better than the advance auto "golds" I had on there before.
Advance Auto is where I got my rotors. The key when buying from them is to always purchase online using a coupon code then pickup in store. They also have the Speedperks rewards now so I can usually save an extra $5 on each purchase using a Speedperks code (they stack with the coupon codes). Rockauto is the only one I have found to be cheaper but then you have to pay for shipping and wait for parts. Not good for something you need in a pinch.
There is a company on ebay called fastsource_autoparts
I bought two sets of rotors from them this past year.
Both times I got stoptech rotors and pads, they do not list the name in the listing, but I think I paid $65 for a set of front rotors with pads for a toyota application.
On rockauto or advance auto I would have paid double that amount.
Rotors were very good quality much better than the advance auto "golds" I had on there before.
Advance Auto is where I got my rotors. The key when buying from them is to always purchase online using a coupon code then pickup in store. They also have the Speedperks rewards now so I can usually save an extra $5 on each purchase using a Speedperks code (they stack with the coupon codes). Rockauto is the only one I have found to be cheaper but then you have to pay for shipping and wait for parts. Not good for something you need in a pinch.
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