Turbo Volvo oil consumption increasing quickly
- Thread starter HawkeyeScott
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Originally Posted By: irekm
return tubing that goes from turbo back to the engine ,seal is leaking
this is your problem
return tubing that goes from turbo back to the engine ,seal is leaking
this is your problem
Originally Posted By: PaulH
Originally Posted By: irekm
return tubing that goes from turbo back to the engine ,seal is leaking
this is your problem
Any elaboration would help a lot. My apologies for being dense, but what makes you say that? Again, the driveway is spotless.
Originally Posted By: irekm
return tubing that goes from turbo back to the engine ,seal is leaking
this is your problem
Any elaboration would help a lot. My apologies for being dense, but what makes you say that? Again, the driveway is spotless.
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Turbo return line seal is a common leak point. And an easy fix.
But that would be a leak that's visible eternally...and a quart every thousand miles would be leaving spots on the driveway and oil on the belly pan...
But that would be a leak that's visible eternally...and a quart every thousand miles would be leaving spots on the driveway and oil on the belly pan...
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Thanks, Astro. I don't think that's my issue since it's clean underneath.
If the engine isn't dirty, with no visible sign of leaks, then the oil consumption is due to an internal issue like valve stem seals, stuck oil rings, turbo oil seals perhaps.
try 1/2 can of seafoam in the sump long term. I bought mine at 103,000, NA engine. It consumed 3/4 qt per week. I started a new oil change with 1/2 can seafoam for 7500 miles and unexpectedly the consumption fell to about 1/3 qt per month. I've had several 600 mile trips to find no noticeable use. I now keep 1/4 can seafoam in the sump per OC.
Originally Posted By: Astro14
I agree that the system is poorly engineered.
But the failures largely stem from the ugly combination of extended OCI stipulated by Volvo and US dealer ignorance about oil. Volvo specified an ACEA (variously A3/B3, or A5, depending on the year) oil, in 5W30 and the dealers put bulk 5W30 in their customers' cars. That led to widespread flame trap issues.
I talked about oil and how it relates to this issue in another forum: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?19629-Oil-Rant/page5
But as with most cars, you have to look at the whole car. The Volvo wagons I have are very durable: the paint and interiors look new, despite being 15 years old,and parked outside. They are loaded with luxuries and features as well as having sterling safety credentials. And, I'm a wagon fan; it's a practical body style with the room of an SUV, while preserving car ride, handling, performance and fuel economy.
If I've got to change out a PCV system, engine mounts, and lower control arms (all known Volvo P2 chassi issues) every 100,000 miles, well that's a whole lot better than paying far more for a vehicle that delivers less.
I maintain 4 V70 wagons in my family. Oil quality and change interval is critical. I agree with everything Astro14 says here.
Sam
I agree that the system is poorly engineered.
But the failures largely stem from the ugly combination of extended OCI stipulated by Volvo and US dealer ignorance about oil. Volvo specified an ACEA (variously A3/B3, or A5, depending on the year) oil, in 5W30 and the dealers put bulk 5W30 in their customers' cars. That led to widespread flame trap issues.
I talked about oil and how it relates to this issue in another forum: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?19629-Oil-Rant/page5
But as with most cars, you have to look at the whole car. The Volvo wagons I have are very durable: the paint and interiors look new, despite being 15 years old,and parked outside. They are loaded with luxuries and features as well as having sterling safety credentials. And, I'm a wagon fan; it's a practical body style with the room of an SUV, while preserving car ride, handling, performance and fuel economy.
If I've got to change out a PCV system, engine mounts, and lower control arms (all known Volvo P2 chassi issues) every 100,000 miles, well that's a whole lot better than paying far more for a vehicle that delivers less.
I maintain 4 V70 wagons in my family. Oil quality and change interval is critical. I agree with everything Astro14 says here.
Sam
Originally Posted By: Astro14
I agree that the system is poorly engineered.
But the failures largely stem from the ugly combination of extended OCI stipulated by Volvo and US dealer ignorance about oil. Volvo specified an ACEA (variously A3/B3, or A5, depending on the year) oil, in 5W30 and the dealers put bulk 5W30 in their customers' cars. That led to widespread flame trap issues.
I talked about oil and how it relates to this issue in another forum: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?19629-Oil-Rant/page5
But as with most cars, you have to look at the whole car. The Volvo wagons I have are very durable: the paint and interiors look new, despite being 15 years old,and parked outside. They are loaded with luxuries and features as well as having sterling safety credentials. And, I'm a wagon fan; it's a practical body style with the room of an SUV, while preserving car ride, handling, performance and fuel economy.
If I've got to change out a PCV system, engine mounts, and lower control arms (all known Volvo P2 chassi issues) every 100,000 miles, well that's a whole lot better than paying far more for a vehicle that delivers less.
A lot of folks like the expression "follow your OM," which in MOST situations it does apply. In this situation however, it does not.
7.5k OCI's with an API SL oil.
Dex III is the suggested PSF.
I have an English/ British Volvo S60 manual that states the FF there was a 0w30. It was definitely a synthetic and could have most likely been an A3/ B4. I just use 0/5w40 Euro oils. I don't care on the brand, but M1 seems to be the cheapest IMO. Her car has been on the synthetic oil diet for about 2 years now. The first time I took over service, the Napa ProSelect had 3 pleats full of sludge. The dealer had used Maxlife 5w30 at 3k intervals too, which somehow that wasn't good enough for her car. After I drained the first synthetic oil change, I saw an immediate difference in how the filter looked. It's just been getting better ever since now that I am using an A3/ B4 oil. They are the same price as any other name brand synthetic so it's a win win IMO.
Even my book says DexIII in the PSF. Had many folks here saying once again to follow the OM.. They system takes Pentosin CHF-11s and can also take CHF-202. Both can be bought for $18-22 a tin. I did many turkey blaster flushes on her car last spring with some Prestone Euro (11s compatible) PSF I bought on clearance. Followed by 3/4 of a tin of Pentosin 11s. I am not sure what was in the system, but it was conventional PFS colored. Hopefully it didn't hurt anything or cause any excessive premature wear, but all seems well now. The fluid is a nice minty green color too.
It has been a fun car to work on really and very reliable for her. Fun to take trips in too and much better riding than my Jeep. Not too many issues in the short time I've worked on it either. Did a radiator drain/ fill, timing belt and pulley swap, ATF cooler line flush, DNP switch, front brakes and brake hoses, fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, and upper motor mount.
Probably should have done the water pump while we were in there for the TB, but since we were newbs, it was probably best to keep it simple. It also needs the PCV system replaced and a new gauge cluster/ DIM.
I agree that the system is poorly engineered.
But the failures largely stem from the ugly combination of extended OCI stipulated by Volvo and US dealer ignorance about oil. Volvo specified an ACEA (variously A3/B3, or A5, depending on the year) oil, in 5W30 and the dealers put bulk 5W30 in their customers' cars. That led to widespread flame trap issues.
I talked about oil and how it relates to this issue in another forum: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?19629-Oil-Rant/page5
But as with most cars, you have to look at the whole car. The Volvo wagons I have are very durable: the paint and interiors look new, despite being 15 years old,and parked outside. They are loaded with luxuries and features as well as having sterling safety credentials. And, I'm a wagon fan; it's a practical body style with the room of an SUV, while preserving car ride, handling, performance and fuel economy.
If I've got to change out a PCV system, engine mounts, and lower control arms (all known Volvo P2 chassi issues) every 100,000 miles, well that's a whole lot better than paying far more for a vehicle that delivers less.
A lot of folks like the expression "follow your OM," which in MOST situations it does apply. In this situation however, it does not.
7.5k OCI's with an API SL oil.
Dex III is the suggested PSF.
I have an English/ British Volvo S60 manual that states the FF there was a 0w30. It was definitely a synthetic and could have most likely been an A3/ B4. I just use 0/5w40 Euro oils. I don't care on the brand, but M1 seems to be the cheapest IMO. Her car has been on the synthetic oil diet for about 2 years now. The first time I took over service, the Napa ProSelect had 3 pleats full of sludge. The dealer had used Maxlife 5w30 at 3k intervals too, which somehow that wasn't good enough for her car. After I drained the first synthetic oil change, I saw an immediate difference in how the filter looked. It's just been getting better ever since now that I am using an A3/ B4 oil. They are the same price as any other name brand synthetic so it's a win win IMO.
Even my book says DexIII in the PSF. Had many folks here saying once again to follow the OM.. They system takes Pentosin CHF-11s and can also take CHF-202. Both can be bought for $18-22 a tin. I did many turkey blaster flushes on her car last spring with some Prestone Euro (11s compatible) PSF I bought on clearance. Followed by 3/4 of a tin of Pentosin 11s. I am not sure what was in the system, but it was conventional PFS colored. Hopefully it didn't hurt anything or cause any excessive premature wear, but all seems well now. The fluid is a nice minty green color too.
It has been a fun car to work on really and very reliable for her. Fun to take trips in too and much better riding than my Jeep. Not too many issues in the short time I've worked on it either. Did a radiator drain/ fill, timing belt and pulley swap, ATF cooler line flush, DNP switch, front brakes and brake hoses, fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, and upper motor mount.
Probably should have done the water pump while we were in there for the TB, but since we were newbs, it was probably best to keep it simple. It also needs the PCV system replaced and a new gauge cluster/ DIM.
Thanks, everyone. I appreciate you taking the time to post. Meep, I really like the Seafoam idea.
Edit: but I just remembered reading on occasion to keep solvents out of a turbo...
Edit: but I just remembered reading on occasion to keep solvents out of a turbo...
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Never used SF, but I have run an oil flush with BG109 in the turbo'd sled. Twice. No worries. It works even better if you can let the hot oil/solvent sit in the pan a few hrs before draining as it'll have more time to dissolve anything in the sump.
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