Turbo Engine - Please Educate Me How to Drive & Care

Sparky16

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Thank you all for great/helpful advices.
I'm an older guy drive like one, but wifey has somewhat heavy foot and she drives this CX-5 mostly. Keep telling her to slow down in neighborhood but old habits don't change overnight. She's slowing down somewhat, only when I'm riding with her, though.

CX-5 doesn't have Oil Temp gauge or Turbo Boost gauge, wish it had an oil temp meter, just coolant temp gauge.
Wondering just when the Turbo Charger get engaged (or engaged 100% of time?), or boosted with RPM change or by speed? If I know exactly when, this will make things a bit easier.
 

Sparky16

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Yes, I do plan to change oil more often, OM says to change at 5,000 miles/6months, but will do at 3,500-4,000 miles since we don't drive much. I have some stash(10x 5qt jug) of Kirkland ILSAC GF-6 and API SP spec 5W-30 oil with 15 of Mazda OE Turbo filters (1WPY-14-302), these should last me 5 years or so minimum. Also, checking coolant level regularly right after shutting off the engine.
 
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Astro14

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@Sparky16 Aw geeez...one guy says, "Turbo engage" and now, you think that's how they work???

They don't "engage". They spin 100% of the time that the engine is running.

They are always spinning.

The only difference is how fast. If you're idling, then, they're not spinning fast, but they are spinning.

IF you floor it, they will spin faster as the engine exhaust increases, until maximum boost is achieved, then the ECU (or mechanical control system, depending) will dump excess exhaust flow around the turbo using the wastegate. At maximum boost, they are spinning in excess of 100,000 RPM (often, depends on the turbo).

BUT They. Are. ALWAYS. Rotating.

ALWAYS.

Got it?

The amount of heat in the turbo changes, the RPM changes, but they are rotating whenever the engine is running.

ALWAYS.
 

Sparky16

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They don't "engage". They spin 100% of the time that the engine is running.

They are always spinning.

The only difference is how fast. If you're idling, then, they're not spinning fast, but they are spinning.

IF you floor it, they will spin faster as the engine exhaust increases, until maximum boost is achieved

So, boosted is the right word then, thanks for the info.

I suppose I should floor DI engines once in a while to avoid carbon build up, tried to floor to hit the red line, but reaches the speed limit++ long before hitting the floor, any advice, please?
 
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So, boosted is the right word then, thanks for the info.

I suppose I should floor DI engines once in a while to avoid carbon build up, tried to floor to hit the red line, but reaches the speed limit++ long before hitting the floor, any advice, please?


You really don’t need to redline the engine. Do you have any hills near you? Take a nice drive in Sport mode up those hills. I get mine in the 4000-5000 rpm range doing that.

If the miles on this car are mostly city driving then it is worth taking it out for a nice drive somewhere to run it at operating temperature for a while.
 

Sparky16

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No hills at all except a few short inclines in some residential areas. Yeah, I tried to go for a long drives to run it at OT once in a while. Thanks.
 
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No hills at all except a few short inclines in some residential areas. Yeah, I tried to go for a long drives to run it at OT once in a while. Thanks.

Make use of that SkyActiv transmission with the manual shifting. That’s another idea.

You must be in a flat area of the PNW?
 

Sparky16

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Thanks all forthe
Make use of that SkyActiv transmission with the manual shifting. That’s another idea.

You must be in a flat area of the PNW?

I'm in Vancouver WA, across the Columbia River from Portland OR. Some hilly residential area, but mostly flat.
Where did you get those Roki OEM filters? I got the new 1WPY-14-302 filters from Kent Mazda online.

If the turbo is not glowing red when you open the hood you're not running it hard enough to worry about it!

Thanks for letting me know. Never seen glowing Turbo charger, but will look after a long drive on freeway. But I do hear something is still running after engine was shut off.
 
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I'm in Vancouver WA, across the Columbia River from Portland OR. Some hilly residential area, but mostly flat.
Where did you get those Roki OEM filters? I got the new 1WPY-14-302 filters from Kent Mazda online.


I get mine from Puyallup Mazda. They are made in Thailand. I’m not sure if this is true or not but for the turbo engine there is just one filter available in the US and that comes from Mexico. I think that is a Denso filter.

Nice area there. Some good drives to the east of you up the river. Maybe even the other way too but I haven’t gone that way.
 

Sparky16

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I get mine from Puyallup Mazda. They are made in Thailand. I’m not sure if this is true or not but for the turbo engine there is just one filter available in the US and that comes from Mexico. I think that is a Denso filter.

Nice area there. Some good drives to the east of you up the river. Maybe even the other way too but I haven’t gone that way.

They still sell PY8W-14-302 filters (made in Mexico) at dealers for lower price. Mazda dealers use these value filters for oil changes for maximum profit. The original part number for 2.5T PY8W-14-302 (made by ROKI) was superseded by 1WPY-14-302, which was made in Thailand (by Denso?). Mazda dealers sell 4 different type of oil filters for CX-5.
 
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They still sell PY8W-14-302 filters (made in Mexico) at dealers for lower price. Mazda dealers use these value filters for oil changes for maximum profit. The original part number for 2.5T PY8W-14-302 (made by ROKI) was superseded by 1WPY-14-302, which was made in Thailand (by Denso?). Mazda dealers sell 4 different type of oil filters for CX-5.


That is correct. I think you will see more Denso filters now with the Toyota affiliation.
 
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Don't really have to let it idle long. Just until the rpms settle a bit and you build full flow which can take as long as 6 seconds after days of not driving and you can drive off just don't drive hard. I drive pretty slow and soft if possible until the temp gauge gets to the 160 mark. If i start my truck after a half day it only takes 2-3 seconds for the oil psi gauge to settle instead.

You don't have to let it idle down to prevent turbo coking if you use an oil with a better flash point. Pennzoil platinum 0w-20's flash point is rather low at 204c so coking could occur over time in a turbo engine but their pennzoil full syn black bottle 0w-20 is 241c using the same d93 standard. Big gap in the two. Other than that id jut change the oil a bit more frequently. i wouldn't go over 6k in it just to be safe in the long run but we don't know your driving style. I do a lot of highway on my trucks so i go to 10k.
 
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Yes, I do plan to change oil more often, OM says to change at 5,000 miles/6months, but will do at 3,500-4,000 miles since we don't drive much. I have some stash(10x 5qt jug) of Kirkland ILSAC GF-6 and API SP spec 5W-30 oil with 15 of Mazda OE Turbo filters (1WPY-14-302), these should last me 5 years or so minimum. Also, checking coolant level regularly right after shutting off the engine.
I drove a 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 from 2007 to 2016. I put 158k miles on it. I had multiple UOAs performed and they indicated that a 7,500 mile OCI was-if anything-conservative. I ran M1 5W-30 and later M1 5W-30 EP. Change it every 12 months/5,000 miles and you will be fine.
 

Sparky16

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The Mazda Owners' Manual states 7,500 mile OCI for 2.5L NA, but 5,000 mile OCI for 2.5L Turbo. Regardless, I'm not going to go that far for my driving style. I have too many short trips, frequent oil changes should help the longevity of this DI Turbo engine.
 
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