Tuff Torq K46 Fluid Change

[SilentType]

I changed the oil in my K46 last spring at 585 hours, most likely it had never been done before and had gotten a pretty loud whine over the years. I used Mobil 1 15W-50 which quieted the unit to a large degree but didn't eliminate the sound. The mower currently sits at 614 hours. Not all the old oil drained out(it calls for 2.3 quarts- I was able to get right about 2 quarts to drain). Those last couple ounces of old fluid won't make a difference but this BITOG after all

Would it make sense to do another drain and fill now with only 29 hours on the new stuff? I want to make sure all the old fluid gets replaced but it's really a hassle to pull the gearbox from the mower.

 

[ctechbob]

Certainly wouldn't hurt anything, but with that time on the box it might not clear up the whine either.

There are spots you can drill for drain plugs, I looked into it ages ago but never ended up doing it. Sucks that you can't just suck out the fluid and fill, that would probably be enough over the life of the thing it if would actually work.

 

[SilentType]

Yeah I've considered getting an oil extractor. It's easy enough to get the pulley and fan off to reach the fill plug. What a dumb idea to not put drain plugs on the thing, I bet they've sold a crap ton of new gearboxes over the years due to oil never being changed.

 

[ctechbob]

Yeah I've considered getting an oil extractor. It's easy enough to get the pulley and fan off to reach the fill plug. What a dumb idea to not put drain plugs on the thing, I bet they've sold a crap ton of new gearboxes over the years due to oil never being changed.

Last time I tried I wasn't really able to get much out, but that was ages ago and I have a better extractor now with a smaller diameter hose.

They're certainly 'filled for life'.

I guess the nice thing about them is you can use almost anything in them. I used 15W40 for a while, 15W50 and now 5W50 Mobil 1 Racing Oil.

 

[SilentType]

Have you noticed any meaningful difference in sound between those oils?

 

[ctechbob]

Have you noticed any meaningful difference in sound between those oils?

Not really, but I started my changes early on in the life of the mower.

20 hours, then 45. Main thing I noticed with the 15W oils is that it was a whole lot more 'touchy' when cold. You could just barely tip into the control and off you're rolling. Kinda think of it a bit like a grabby clutch in a manual car. The 5W oil is much smoother on take off. I only have 165 hours on it now. If I have time this summer I might see if I can suck some out and replace it.

My notes say that at 20 hours it was a bit whiney, but after the change it was silent and has been silent ever since.

 

[cptbarkey]

All Hydro transmissions make sound, get used to it.

 

[IndyIan]

Have you noticed any meaningful difference in sound between those oils?

I put in some 15W40 into my hst lawn tractor, and just noticed it was a bit more responsive/touchy when cold, the performance at high temps was about the same. But the fluid I took out was half way to mercury, so I doubt it was changed in the 15 years before I got it... It has a fair amount of slip, but doesn't seem to be getting worse.
I just ran it and then extracted as much as I could out the breather hole a couple times. The mower doesn't owe me anything, but I don't want to buy another one sooner than I have to either.
Next time I will try some 20W50 I think.

 

[JTK]

I changed the oil in my K46 last spring at 585 hours, most likely it had never been done before and had gotten a pretty loud whine over the years. I used Mobil 1 15W-50 which quieted the unit to a large degree but didn't eliminate the sound. The mower currently sits at 614 hours. Not all the old oil drained out(it calls for 2.3 quarts- I was able to get right about 2 quarts to drain). Those last couple ounces of old fluid won't make a difference but this BITOG after all

Would it make sense to do another drain and fill now with only 29 hours on the new stuff? I want to make sure all the old fluid gets replaced but it's really a hassle to pull the gearbox from the mower.

Is this on the 2014 Cub Cadet LTX1042 in your sig? Do you have to drop the transaxle to drain and refill?

 

[martinq]

I changed the oil in my K46 last spring at 585 hours, most likely it had never been done before and had gotten a pretty loud whine over the years. I used Mobil 1 15W-50 which quieted the unit to a large degree but didn't eliminate the sound. The mower currently sits at 614 hours. Not all the old oil drained out(it calls for 2.3 quarts- I was able to get right about 2 quarts to drain). Those last couple ounces of old fluid won't make a difference but this BITOG after all

Would it make sense to do another drain and fill now with only 29 hours on the new stuff? I want to make sure all the old fluid gets replaced but it's really a hassle to pull the gearbox from the mower.

I would add magnets to all the drain plugs if possible. I'm in the middle of servicing two K72B transmissions but not familiar with the K46.

I would also use HyGard LV fluid from Deere as it's just as cheap as engine oil but has a proper gear & brake add-pack and is GL4 rated.

If you want to use engine oil, look for a 0w/5w-40/50 or order the fluid from Tuff Torq.

 

[SilentType]

Is this on the 2014 Cub Cadet LTX1042 in your sig? Do you have to drop the transaxle to drain and refill?

I would add magnets to all the drain plugs if possible. I'm in the middle of servicing two K72B transmissions but not familiar with the K46.

I would also use HyGard LV fluid from Deere as it's just as cheap as engine oil but has a proper gear & brake add-pack and is GL4 rated.

If you want to use engine oil, look for a 0w/5w-40/50 or order the fluid from Tuff Torq.

Yes this is on my Cub and the unit does have to be dropped to do the oil change. There aren't any drain plugs it gets drained and filled through the fill plug. Genius design.

There is a magnet under the fill plug and I believe another one inside(and a filter) but you'd have to split the case to get it, which I am trying to talk myself into doing.

 

[martinq]

Yes this is on my Cub and the unit does have to be dropped to do the oil change. There aren't any drain plugs it gets drained and filled through the fill plug. Genius design.

There is a magnet under the fill plug and I believe another one inside(and a filter) but you'd have to split the case to get it, which I am trying to talk myself into doing.

That sounds less than enjoyable. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[SilentType]

That sounds less than enjoyable. Good luck and keep us posted.

Yeah removing the transaxle from the mower is definitely tedious but not overly complicated either. If I do open the case I'll do it in the off season.

 

[ctechbob]

Yeah it's definitely tedious but not overly complicated either. If I do open the case I'll do it in the off season.

Hardest thing is getting the mower to stay up in the air. Not exactly a lot of good spots for jack stands and the like. If you had a hoist you could snatch it up with it would be a lot easier...or flip the whole thing upside down or something......

Actually, that might be a decent idea if you're doing service and have the oil drained, suck the gas out of it and flip the whole thing over.....

 

[SilentType]

Hardest thing is getting the mower to stay up in the air. Not exactly a lot of good spots for jack stands and the like. If you had a hoist you could snatch it up with it would be a lot easier...or flip the whole thing upside down or something......

Actually, that might be a decent idea if you're doing service and have the oil drained, suck the gas out of it and flip the whole thing over.....

Actually I removed the deck and had plenty of room for jack stands. Probably the easiest part of the job lol.

 

[BC1]

Changing the filter is easy, other than cleaning all the RTV. Just be gentle taking the bottom off so nothing falls out. There are a few videos showing what goes where if things do come loose. A bucket serves as a perfect stand and catches tithe drips.

 

[ctechbob]

Actually I removed the deck and had plenty of room for jack stands. Probably the easiest part of the job lol.

That's what I get for being lazy and not taking mine off.

 

[spk2000]

I had trouble with my Snapper GT3000 garden tractor I was climbing some pretty healthy hills on my yard. Needless to say it stopped climbing one day and I could turn and go sideways just not climb the hill. I tried Mobil1 15W50 like many recommend and it worked but 2 months later needed it again. Then again same. I decided to try Amsoil Hydrostatic fluis and 3 years later still going strong and that was using my oil extractor pulling maybe hald of it out through the full plug. Highly recommend getting the Amsoil so much better and cheapoer than replacing a trnasmission or mower

 

[SilentType]

That's what I get for being lazy and not taking mine off.

The drive belt needed to be replaced at the same time so it was really a no-brainer to get the deck outta there.

 

[The_Eric]

My experience mirrored yours. Not sure when I first changed mine (Deere L110) but it would have been similar hours - I used 15w50 too as that's what the reading suggested. After 2 changes it was still noisy, but quieter than it was prior to changing. Well it came time to sell it and I wanted it to be "right" so I serviced it again, this time using some leftover Mystik hydraulic oil (I forget the exact product) and this time the thing was darn near silent! I had an old fellow bring me his L110 for a bunch of repairs and while it was there, I thought that I'd service it too. Same deal, used the "correct" 15w50 and it was noisy. Same deal with the ZT2800s in my zero - I used Amsoil Hydro 20w50 and it's (a bit) talkative as well. Between my anecdotal experiences and talking with another forum member, I've decided that I'm going to use a dedicated hydraulic oil. The heaviest that I could easily find was an ISO100, which is heavier than the Mystik in a 5 gallon pail so that's where I'm going to start.