I have said it before, and will scream from the rooftops for anyone listening, that TruFuel is AMAZING. Absolutely love the stuff. For anyone that uses less than a gallon of 2 cycle gas per year, the stuff is a great choice
Trufuel is the bomb
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As to the reason your equipment ran poorly, MOST 40:1 modern equipment is on the budget end of the spectrum, have sealed carbs, and are tuned to run exactly 40:1. Not 30:1, not 50:1, but exactly 40:1. I've seen it countless times at my shop.
I'm not familiar with the "universal, one size fits all" oil you used, but I bet it provides a 50:1 mix ratio, which would give you the terrible running characteristics you observed, as your engine requires 40:1.
I'm not familiar with the "universal, one size fits all" oil you used, but I bet it provides a 50:1 mix ratio, which would give you the terrible running characteristics you observed, as your engine requires 40:1.
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
I have said it before, and will scream from the rooftops for anyone listening, that TruFuel is AMAZING. Absolutely love the stuff. For anyone that uses less than a gallon of 2 cycle gas per year, the stuff is a great choice
And I agree.
All my 2-stroke stuff starts up in the spring like winter never happened. I store them with a full tank of TruFuel.
My Poulan Pro PP5020AV Chainsaw started on the second pull.
Love it.
I have said it before, and will scream from the rooftops for anyone listening, that TruFuel is AMAZING. Absolutely love the stuff. For anyone that uses less than a gallon of 2 cycle gas per year, the stuff is a great choice
And I agree.
All my 2-stroke stuff starts up in the spring like winter never happened. I store them with a full tank of TruFuel.
My Poulan Pro PP5020AV Chainsaw started on the second pull.
Love it.
I use Trufuel in my Craftsman Blower and it runs perfectly. I also use Stihl's MotoMix in my Stihl weedeater and it starts and runs perfectly.
I had to use my chainsaw earlier this month for the first time in over a year. It had E10/oil mix with StaBil in it, and started on the 5th? 6th? pull of the starter and ran just fine while I was taking down a tree.
I used the blower to clean up a few leaves around the deck and patio last weekend. It has also been sitting since last fall with E10/oil mix and StaBil. Again, started on the 3rd or 4th pull of the starter and ran perfectly for the 15 minutes or so that I used it.
I really don't know why I'd want to use some sort of magic, overpriced fuel in a can when properly mixed and stabilized fuel does just fine.
I used the blower to clean up a few leaves around the deck and patio last weekend. It has also been sitting since last fall with E10/oil mix and StaBil. Again, started on the 3rd or 4th pull of the starter and ran perfectly for the 15 minutes or so that I used it.
I really don't know why I'd want to use some sort of magic, overpriced fuel in a can when properly mixed and stabilized fuel does just fine.
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
I really don't know why I'd want to use some sort of magic, overpriced fuel in a can when properly mixed and stabilized fuel does just fine.
Convenience and ease of storage.
Can sit around unopened for years.
Some people can not stand the thought of spending a cent on something they think they can do just as well for less.
Some people like convenience and don't mind spending for it.
At this stage in my life I can afford "Easy" in many aspects of my life and enjoy it.
Either way, It's all good.
I really don't know why I'd want to use some sort of magic, overpriced fuel in a can when properly mixed and stabilized fuel does just fine.
Convenience and ease of storage.
Can sit around unopened for years.
Some people can not stand the thought of spending a cent on something they think they can do just as well for less.
Some people like convenience and don't mind spending for it.
At this stage in my life I can afford "Easy" in many aspects of my life and enjoy it.
Either way, It's all good.
Originally Posted By: Nate1979
Another year and time to start up the mower which had a full tank of E10 w/ Stabil added. Sat for 6 months. Started on first try. Oh well, maybe the E10 devil will get me next time but after so many years I have to wonder......
I've been using E10 fuel for 20 years and have never had a starting problem with it. Like you, I use StaBil in the fuel when Fall comes.
Another year and time to start up the mower which had a full tank of E10 w/ Stabil added. Sat for 6 months. Started on first try. Oh well, maybe the E10 devil will get me next time but after so many years I have to wonder......
I've been using E10 fuel for 20 years and have never had a starting problem with it. Like you, I use StaBil in the fuel when Fall comes.
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
I really don't know why I'd want to use some sort of magic, overpriced fuel in a can when properly mixed and stabilized fuel does just fine.
2 cans of TruFuel a year = $12
or
mix it yourself 1 gallon of gas ($2.50), premix oil ($2.50), and a squirt of Stabil ($1) = $6
So mixing a gallon yourself cost about $6/year, or buying TruFuel cost about $12/year. You saved yourself $6. Six lousy dollars. Your gallon of gasoline is stale after 3 months, and REALLY FREAKING stale after 6 months. Unless you are mixing up small batches of 2 stroke gas, your gas is stale for most of the year.
I'd rather spend the extra $6 per year to have a top quality, ethanol free, 92 octane, premium fuel that is good for years and years. TruFuel is also easier to start than 1 year old has. My trimmer, blower, and chainsaw ALWAYS start in two pulls. Guaranteed. Even if I haven't used them in a year.
TruFuel is an EXCEPTIONAL, cost effective product for the majority of people that will only use 2 cans a year.
People complain about the cost of TruFuel. Add in the cost of even 1 carburetor repair from using bad gas, and TruFuel easily pays for itself. I have never seen a carburetor problem with TruFuel. In fact, if a person buys a quality piece of equipment (Stihl, Echo, Husky, etc) and ONLY uses TruFuel in it from new, based on my experience with the product, I would 100% guarantee that they would never have a carb problem in 20 years.
I really don't know why I'd want to use some sort of magic, overpriced fuel in a can when properly mixed and stabilized fuel does just fine.
2 cans of TruFuel a year = $12
or
mix it yourself 1 gallon of gas ($2.50), premix oil ($2.50), and a squirt of Stabil ($1) = $6
So mixing a gallon yourself cost about $6/year, or buying TruFuel cost about $12/year. You saved yourself $6. Six lousy dollars. Your gallon of gasoline is stale after 3 months, and REALLY FREAKING stale after 6 months. Unless you are mixing up small batches of 2 stroke gas, your gas is stale for most of the year.
I'd rather spend the extra $6 per year to have a top quality, ethanol free, 92 octane, premium fuel that is good for years and years. TruFuel is also easier to start than 1 year old has. My trimmer, blower, and chainsaw ALWAYS start in two pulls. Guaranteed. Even if I haven't used them in a year.
TruFuel is an EXCEPTIONAL, cost effective product for the majority of people that will only use 2 cans a year.
People complain about the cost of TruFuel. Add in the cost of even 1 carburetor repair from using bad gas, and TruFuel easily pays for itself. I have never seen a carburetor problem with TruFuel. In fact, if a person buys a quality piece of equipment (Stihl, Echo, Husky, etc) and ONLY uses TruFuel in it from new, based on my experience with the product, I would 100% guarantee that they would never have a carb problem in 20 years.
Premium gas + blue marine Stabil + 2-stroke oil and you are good to go for 6-months or more of storage. Been doing it that way in outboards and motorcycles for decades and it has always worked well for me.
Originally Posted By: AuthorEditor
Premium gas + blue marine Stabil + 2-stroke oil and you are good to go for 6-months or more of storage. Been doing it that way in outboards and motorcycles for decades and it has always worked well for me.
The octane rating has nothing to do with the stability of the fuel, non-premium gasoline is just as stable.
Premium gas + blue marine Stabil + 2-stroke oil and you are good to go for 6-months or more of storage. Been doing it that way in outboards and motorcycles for decades and it has always worked well for me.
The octane rating has nothing to do with the stability of the fuel, non-premium gasoline is just as stable.
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
I really don't know why I'd want to use some sort of magic, overpriced fuel in a can when properly mixed and stabilized fuel does just fine.
I don't even understand the stabilizer to be honest. My 24 year-old lawn mower, my 16 year-old garden tractor, my 15 year-old snow thrower, my string trimmmer and my chainsaw all get E10 from the gas station and have for a very long time (we're in an EPA non-attainment area that has always had oxygenated gasoline). None of them get stabilizer except what might be in the oil for the 2-stroke ones, and I rarely drain any of them for the winter. All are continuing to work just fine.
I really don't know why I'd want to use some sort of magic, overpriced fuel in a can when properly mixed and stabilized fuel does just fine.
I don't even understand the stabilizer to be honest. My 24 year-old lawn mower, my 16 year-old garden tractor, my 15 year-old snow thrower, my string trimmmer and my chainsaw all get E10 from the gas station and have for a very long time (we're in an EPA non-attainment area that has always had oxygenated gasoline). None of them get stabilizer except what might be in the oil for the 2-stroke ones, and I rarely drain any of them for the winter. All are continuing to work just fine.
Quote:
The octane rating has nothing to do with the stability of the fuel, non-premium gasoline is just as stable.
All gas loses octane gradually in storage, so if you start off with a higher octane rating you are less likely to have poor engine performance after storage.
The octane rating has nothing to do with the stability of the fuel, non-premium gasoline is just as stable.
All gas loses octane gradually in storage, so if you start off with a higher octane rating you are less likely to have poor engine performance after storage.
Originally Posted By: AuthorEditor
Quote:
The octane rating has nothing to do with the stability of the fuel, non-premium gasoline is just as stable.
All gas loses octane gradually in storage, so if you start off with a higher octane rating you are less likely to have poor engine performance after storage.
No it doesn't, unless you are telling me it changes the isomer over time. Which it does not.
Quote:
The octane rating has nothing to do with the stability of the fuel, non-premium gasoline is just as stable.
All gas loses octane gradually in storage, so if you start off with a higher octane rating you are less likely to have poor engine performance after storage.
No it doesn't, unless you are telling me it changes the isomer over time. Which it does not.
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: AuthorEditor
Quote:
The octane rating has nothing to do with the stability of the fuel, non-premium gasoline is just as stable.
All gas loses octane gradually in storage, so if you start off with a higher octane rating you are less likely to have poor engine performance after storage.
No it doesn't, unless you are telling me it changes the isomer over time. Which it does not.
"The light components in petrol are lost first as the petrol sits in the fuel tanks. These components provide valuable octane benefits under high revving conditions such as cold start acceleration and the loss of these components can result in detonation and pre-ignition at high speed resulting in piston damage. The remaining components that have not evaporated are high octane and octane can actually increase with time but this octane is not available for high revving conditions."
http://www.bp.com/content/dam/bp-country/en_au/media/fuel-news/petrol-life-vehicle-tanks.pdf
Originally Posted By: AuthorEditor
Quote:
The octane rating has nothing to do with the stability of the fuel, non-premium gasoline is just as stable.
All gas loses octane gradually in storage, so if you start off with a higher octane rating you are less likely to have poor engine performance after storage.
No it doesn't, unless you are telling me it changes the isomer over time. Which it does not.
"The light components in petrol are lost first as the petrol sits in the fuel tanks. These components provide valuable octane benefits under high revving conditions such as cold start acceleration and the loss of these components can result in detonation and pre-ignition at high speed resulting in piston damage. The remaining components that have not evaporated are high octane and octane can actually increase with time but this octane is not available for high revving conditions."
http://www.bp.com/content/dam/bp-country/en_au/media/fuel-news/petrol-life-vehicle-tanks.pdf
Yes, in the case of fuels that have adds which increase the apparent octane rating (such as ethanol). But the isomers do not change, I was responding to his statement that all gas loses octane in storage. Maybe I should have been more clear that there is no chemical change to the octane molecule (not to be confused with the octane rating).
Originally Posted By: kschachn
But the isomers do not change, I was responding to his statement that all gas loses octane in storage. Maybe I should have been more clear that there is no chemical change to the octane molecule (not to be confused with the octane rating).
At this point though, you're both correct, but talking about two completely different things...
But the isomers do not change, I was responding to his statement that all gas loses octane in storage. Maybe I should have been more clear that there is no chemical change to the octane molecule (not to be confused with the octane rating).
At this point though, you're both correct, but talking about two completely different things...
By the way, I believe Trufuel has a 92 octane rating (happier?). Pump gasoline's octane rating gradually declines in storage, and I believe ethanol gas is even more susceptible to that problem.
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From that same BP document:
Loss of light components – impact on octane
The light components in petrol are lost first as the petrol sits in the fuel tanks. These
components provide valuable octane benefits under high revving conditions such as
cold start acceleration and the loss of these components can result in detonation and
pre ignition at high speed resulting in piston damage.
The remaining components that have not evaporated are high octane and octane can
actually increase with time but this octane is not available for high revving
conditions.
In my experience higher octane premium gasoline performs better in storage for boat engines and motorcycles, but I suspect in small two-stroke engines the octane rating is not as critical.
Loss of light components – impact on octane
The light components in petrol are lost first as the petrol sits in the fuel tanks. These
components provide valuable octane benefits under high revving conditions such as
cold start acceleration and the loss of these components can result in detonation and
pre ignition at high speed resulting in piston damage.
The remaining components that have not evaporated are high octane and octane can
actually increase with time but this octane is not available for high revving
conditions.
In my experience higher octane premium gasoline performs better in storage for boat engines and motorcycles, but I suspect in small two-stroke engines the octane rating is not as critical.
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