Tried new penetrating fluids

Hi All
what is the percentage of a penetrating oil is solvents is it more then 50% and the rest base oils?
Anyone have any idea?
 
Three cheers for Kimball Midwest Torq CB Corrosion Blasting penetrating oil. Better'n Kroil. I had a fishing reel I last used in Nov in saltwater. Forgot to wash it down. Found in hidden away, nice and salty. Sprayed the external screws with it, waited overnight. Next morning came apart easily. Expensive, but soooooo worth it to save your equipment.
 
So the Gibbs I ordered won't be here for a couple days. Need to replace the brake hoses on my sons Forte. I tried my older cans of Kroil and after a couple hours, nothing. Currently sitting with PB blaster on them. Might do liquid wrench when I get home in a couple hours. It will sit until the morning anyway so another 10+ hours.

Is it bad to use all the different ones together? On top of that I had to go buy an 11mm flare wrench. Only thing around me that had it was HF
 
Sequoiasoon said:
So the Gibbs I ordered won't be here for a couple days. Need to replace the brake hoses on my sons Forte. I tried my older cans of Kroil and after a couple hours, nothing. Currently sitting with PB blaster on them. Might do liquid wrench when I get home in a couple hours. It will sit until the morning anyway so another 10+ hours.

Is it bad to use all the different ones together? On top of that I had to go buy an 11mm flare wrench. Only thing around me that had it was HF
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I would just preemptively buy some new hoses. That way when you finally resort to the vice grips, you're not kicking yourself. 🙂
 
ripcord said:
I would just preemptively buy some new hoses. That way when you finally resort to the vice grips, you're not kicking yourself. 🙂
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I have the new hoses, that was the "easy" part. Only place with stock was 45 minutes away. All local places I called including dealers said maybe Friday delivery. Same with RockAuto (unless I spent $170 for next day). Amazon listed Thursday or Friday.

The part/nut currently stuck is on the flared metal line. It screws into the new hoses so don't really want to damage and need to replace hard lines going back to master cylinder.
 
Sequoiasoon said:
I have the new hoses, that was the "easy" part. Only place with stock was 45 minutes away. All local places I called including dealers said maybe Friday delivery. Same with RockAuto (unless I spent $170 for next day). Amazon listed Thursday or Friday.

The part/nut currently stuck is on the flared metal line. It screws into the new hoses so don't really want to damage and need to replace hard lines going back to master cylinder.
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Oh, yeah, that's a pain. Can you safely put some heat on it?
 
Sequoiasoon said:
I have the new hoses, that was the "easy" part. Only place with stock was 45 minutes away. All local places I called including dealers said maybe Friday delivery. Same with RockAuto (unless I spent $170 for next day). Amazon listed Thursday or Friday.

The part/nut currently stuck is on the flared metal line. It screws into the new hoses so don't really want to damage and need to replace hard lines going back to master cylinder.
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Do not try and unscrew the metal line nut from a hose, disconnect the hose, remove any clips or bolts holding it in palace and hold the metal line fitting while turning the hose fitting off of the line fitting. Once it is removed you can lubricate the line fitting to get it moving freely again.
 
@Trav - THANK YOU! As soon as I read your post it was the DUH moment. Only work ONE rusted/frozen spot at a time, not both. Once all was unbolted, no brackets to add heat sink, I was able to take my small butane torch and heat the hose side a bit like @ripcord suggested also. I didn't go crazy or long on it, basically burnt off the penetrants. It was nice and warm, quick spray with Seafoam Deep Creep (because why not I used 3 others already :LOL:). I held the flare nut basically in place with new 11mm Quinn Flare wrench from HF. Used 17mm on hose where it is normally secured in bracket and squeezed the 2 together. Barely any effort and it popped loose. I then sprayed the flare again and had to work that back and forth a bit before it loosened up and slid up hard line to clean it up.

Thank you again for teaching this old dog new tricks. I already shared the whole thing with others especially my son.

I don't know if it was the hose since they were never done (13 years/175k miles) or the caliper. I did new Raybestos Element3 front calipers/rotors/pads about 2 years/14k miles ago. I cleaned up the pads a week ago because my son was complaining of brake issue but it was intermittent and I had no issue getting pistons back in then. This time a week later the RF was stuck bad, hard to push in with clamp. When wife complained yesterday about the brake issue after a short drive I tried it and confirmed. About a 3 mile drive and at 40mph it was thumping when not pushing brake. Slow down and try to coast and car would slowly stop. I drove easy rest of the way back home. IR temp gun - Drivers side was about 250F, passenger side was 600F.

It's back together and working fine that I can tell. 2 new Duralast hoses, new Duralast Elite pads, new RF Duralast caliper and rotor. Getting parts from RA early and planning is much cheaper and convenient, oh well.

The Duralast hoses had same issue on both. The "guide/holding" L hook was about 1mm to long. I couldn't get the pin in hole and start the Banjo bolt. I didn't want to force it and break the bolt. I took Dremel with small grind stone and shaved the 1mm from the hook/pin. Fit right in nice and easy, Banjo started and threaded all the way with just fingers.

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Can you do me a favor and give me all the desriptors in "Gibbs"? Seems like there's more than one variety. Thanks.

Late note: never mind. I found it.
 
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Trav said:
Over the past few years Kroil doesnt seem to be cutting it so my latest ongoing project a full bushing replacement on the rear of an old Subaru, the body is rust free but holy god the suspension parts are very badly rotted, no bolt came out without going to war with it. Perfect time to try Kroil, Gibbs and FreeAll just for fun, if it doesnt do much smoke wrench and cutoff wheel time.

I chose bolts that were close together and impossible to remove with anything but hand tools (to tight even for the angle head impact) and sprayed one with each product in multiple locations. Nothing scientific here just my own observations. The Kroil surprisingly was a miserable failure, the free all wasn't much better but stunk the high heaven, that stinky crap (it smells worse than the new liquid wrench) went in the bin.
The Gibbs did a remarkable job with no objectionable odor, I got everything loose after leaving all 3 product overnight. It stayed wet the longest and you could see the rust dripping off. Impressive.

https://www.amazon.com/Gibbs-Brand-Lubricant-2-12oz-cans/dp/B00AFJXIJQ
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I love the smell of croil. They call it mechanic's aftershave.
 
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