Trickle charger quick connect question

Joined
Mar 10, 2021
Messages
1,112
Location
TX
Is this OK to connect the "positive wire" of the trickle charger to either of the 2 bolts in the yellow circle? The permanent quick connect will be installed at the trunk under the spare wheel where battery is also located. The wire of the trickle charger is not long enough so I am moving it connected in the fuse box so that it will be easily accessible without moving the cover of the spare wheel. Please see picture below.
I am afraid I might fry the car's ECU so I am consulting the professionals on this forum first. ;)
Thanks

fuses.jpg
 
Is this OK to connect the "positive wire" of the trickle charger to either of the 2 bolts in the yellow circle? The permanent quick connect will be installed at the trunk under the spare wheel where battery is also located. The wire of the trickle charger is not long enough so I am moving it connected in the fuse box so that it will be easily accessible without moving the cover of the spare wheel. Please see picture below.
I am afraid I might fry the car's ECU so I am consulting the professionals on this forum first. ;)
Thanks

View attachment 132846
Yes, likely. I see a 250A fuse in there, maybe more, so you should consult the FSM wiring diagram. I did something like that on my S-10, because it was a perfect spot to connect to with my OE cable. I’d put it on the main line that goes from the battery terminal to that distribution block. I’d assume one of those two or the bottom left one is the main one from the battery.

Verify that it truly is always hot. Not fed via some relay or anything. If there is any doubt they do make longer cables with SAE connectors on them. Get a fused one.
 
Carefully consider whether it's a good idea to connect a (probably) 18AWG wire to a place where it's essentially unfused power from the battery, and then run that wire through the interior of your vehicle.

If that wire shorts out for any reason, it'll be up in flames long before that 250 amp mega fuse blows.
 
Carefully consider whether it's a good idea to connect a (probably) 18AWG wire to a place where it's essentially unfused power from the battery, and then run that wire through the interior of your vehicle.

If that wire shorts out for any reason, it'll be up in flames long before that 250 amp mega fuse blows.
It seems like that’s the point. OE cable is short, battery is on the trunk, so connect to hard bus in another breakout box.

Usually the ring terminal charger cables have a fuse on positive a short distance from the ring terminal, so the unprotected run is short. OP does need to verify that there is a fuse. I’ve seen some without.
 
Carefully consider whether it's a good idea to connect a (probably) 18AWG wire to a place where it's essentially unfused power from the battery, and then run that wire through the interior of your vehicle.

If that wire shorts out for any reason, it'll be up in flames long before that 250 amp mega fuse blows.
It seems like that’s the point. OE cable is short, battery is on the trunk, so connect to hard bus in another breakout box.

Usually the ring terminal charger cables have a fuse on positive a short distance from the ring terminal, so the unprotected run is short. OP does need to verify that there is a fuse. I’ve seen some without.

Thanks for the reply fellow members.

I modified the image below.
The top bolt is connected directly to the battery. The bottom bolt goes towards to the rear. "Maybe" to the tail lights, license plate light, backup camera?
fuses.jpg


The quick connect wire adapter is included with Deltran Battery Tender Jr and has a 7.5A fuse with it
20221115_103516.jpg
 
Last edited:
From the picture, it's not a never-blow Chinesium fuse. Glad to see they're not being cheap.
They’ll blow just fine, btdt playing with ham radio power supplies connected to batteries. A hard shirt, low impedance, will pen that fuse quick. It’s all in the I^2t profile.

What would you run instead?
 
They’ll blow just fine, btdt playing with ham radio power supplies connected to batteries. A hard shirt, low impedance, will pen that fuse quick. It’s all in the I^2t profile.

What would you run instead?

I've seen a supposed 15 amp Chinesium fuse connected across a 12V car battery with it's legs burning away because it won't blow.

Probably came out of the same factory as the Harbor Freight ones that were recalled.

The 7.5 amp in the photo is fine, it's a Littelfuse. (Unless it's counterfeit...)
 
I've seen a supposed 15 amp Chinesium fuse connected across a 12V car battery with it's legs burning away because it won't blow.

Probably came out of the same factory as the Harbor Freight ones that were recalled.

The 7.5 amp in the photo is fine, it's a Littelfuse. (Unless it's counterfeit...)
lol didn’t hear about recalled HF fuses.

Yeah Littelfuse, I think Eaton made?
 
I’m not seeing a difference between connecting the tender directly to the battery vs the constant hot terminal block.

I would disconnect the battery before disconnecting anything in the photo.
 
I’m not seeing a difference between connecting the tender directly to the battery vs the constant hot terminal block.

I would disconnect the battery before disconnecting anything in the photo.
Only thing that could be an issue is if there is a load sensor at the battery like some GM's use IMO. Then go directly to the battery terminals.
 
Back
Top