transmission filter
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Any made in USA model.
Fram makes very good transmission filters
^^^what Bluestream said^^^
As much as it pains me to say it, FRAM DOES make good air and transmission filters.
The fuel and transmission filters from AutoZone are mostly made by Champion Laboratories, so I would consider them a quality part also.
As much as it pains me to say it, FRAM DOES make good air and transmission filters.
The fuel and transmission filters from AutoZone are mostly made by Champion Laboratories, so I would consider them a quality part also.
No best brand as the filter doesn't catch much anyway.
So, buy whatever the dealer or local auto part store carries, and quit worrying.
Then, if you want want some better filtration, add a Permacool, Racor, Magnefine, or equivalent inline ATF filter.
So, buy whatever the dealer or local auto part store carries, and quit worrying.
Then, if you want want some better filtration, add a Permacool, Racor, Magnefine, or equivalent inline ATF filter.
unDummy is right: filtration will be better accomplished using a Magnefine or equivalent.
If you have not had any strange behaviour or malfunction or failure of your ATX, you can expect to count the captured "harmful" particles on your fingers (sarcasm).
There is really no need to open the pan, no need to replace the filter. You will introduce more contamination than you will catch with the new in-pan filter.
Just do a cooler-line flush and throw a magnefine in there. Then sleep easy!
If you have not had any strange behaviour or malfunction or failure of your ATX, you can expect to count the captured "harmful" particles on your fingers (sarcasm).
There is really no need to open the pan, no need to replace the filter. You will introduce more contamination than you will catch with the new in-pan filter.
Just do a cooler-line flush and throw a magnefine in there. Then sleep easy!
Originally Posted By: Kaboomba
There is really no need to open the pan, no need to replace the filter. You will introduce more contamination than you will catch with the new in-pan filter.
Strongly disagree! You can get away with what you say after the first change, but some 75 percent of the contamination generated in an automatic over it's life occurs in the first 5000 miles.
As to introducing more contamination... not unless you drop the pan in the middle of a dust storm. If you pull the pan in a reasonably clean environment, clean it well and reinstall it, what danger is there? Now if you don't have a half-decent place to do it, common sense dictates not doing it until you find one.
There is really no need to open the pan, no need to replace the filter. You will introduce more contamination than you will catch with the new in-pan filter.
Strongly disagree! You can get away with what you say after the first change, but some 75 percent of the contamination generated in an automatic over it's life occurs in the first 5000 miles.
As to introducing more contamination... not unless you drop the pan in the middle of a dust storm. If you pull the pan in a reasonably clean environment, clean it well and reinstall it, what danger is there? Now if you don't have a half-decent place to do it, common sense dictates not doing it until you find one.
Changing the fluid in an auto trans without changing the filter?
That's just nuts. Anybody do that on an engine?
Auto trans generate all kinds of metal debris to go with the clutch particles.
You NEED a new filter.
That's just nuts. Anybody do that on an engine?
Auto trans generate all kinds of metal debris to go with the clutch particles.
You NEED a new filter.
What does anyone think of Beck/Arnley trans filters?
As to pan filters, I know most quality, name brand aftermarket replacements match the OE spec... which is in the 100u range for pads and 150 to 200 on screens (generally, there are exceptions). I found that for the late model Ford applications, the SPX Filtran filters are 80u, which is an improvement over stock. I only know the Ford app and not any others. I installed that filter when I did my first change at 9K, later also installing an inline filter. The Magnefine reduced the ISO cleanliness code of the oil in the trans of my '05 F150HD from an already clean 15/14/12 to 13/12/9. That's an 81 percent reduction in the particle count in 2200 miles.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Changing the fluid in an auto trans without changing the filter?
That's just nuts.
No, it ain't.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Anybody do that on an engine?
Though it uses many similar materials and, like an engine, has many spinning bits, the ATX is not an engine. They are two very different machines.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Auto trans generate all kinds of metal debris to go with the clutch particles.
ATX will generate steel and friction material particles that, unless the trans is being flogged with hard launches/hard driving and/or has terrible old worn-out fluid and/or is in the process of failing, are very small sub-20u, and are limited quantity. There will be a very small amount of very fine aluminum dust from valve body and pump housing wear. Almost no brass, copper, lead, or tin.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
You NEED a new filter.
The particles that exist in a healthy ATX are much too small to be captured by the in-pan filter, new or old. That 4L65E has a synthetic media that is 60 micron at its very best, and 120 micron at worst.
The way to get rid of the wear particles is to do a nice, hot flush with a detergent-based additive (like that new Amsoil stuff, or Lubegard). Then, add a Megnefine, and watch the particle count improve like in Jim Allen's truck!
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
The Magnefine reduced the ISO cleanliness code of the oil in the trans of my '05 F150HD from an already clean 15/14/12 to 13/12/9. That's an 81 percent reduction in the particle count in 2200 miles.
Changing the fluid in an auto trans without changing the filter?
That's just nuts.
No, it ain't.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Anybody do that on an engine?
Though it uses many similar materials and, like an engine, has many spinning bits, the ATX is not an engine. They are two very different machines.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Auto trans generate all kinds of metal debris to go with the clutch particles.
ATX will generate steel and friction material particles that, unless the trans is being flogged with hard launches/hard driving and/or has terrible old worn-out fluid and/or is in the process of failing, are very small sub-20u, and are limited quantity. There will be a very small amount of very fine aluminum dust from valve body and pump housing wear. Almost no brass, copper, lead, or tin.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
You NEED a new filter.
The particles that exist in a healthy ATX are much too small to be captured by the in-pan filter, new or old. That 4L65E has a synthetic media that is 60 micron at its very best, and 120 micron at worst.
The way to get rid of the wear particles is to do a nice, hot flush with a detergent-based additive (like that new Amsoil stuff, or Lubegard). Then, add a Megnefine, and watch the particle count improve like in Jim Allen's truck!
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
The Magnefine reduced the ISO cleanliness code of the oil in the trans of my '05 F150HD from an already clean 15/14/12 to 13/12/9. That's an 81 percent reduction in the particle count in 2200 miles.
Yeah. I agree now. Your cute [censored] diagram showed me the light!
Everybody: you don't need a trans filter anymore! Think of the money we'll all save.
That's some nutty advice there.
Everybody: you don't need a trans filter anymore! Think of the money we'll all save.
That's some nutty advice there.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Yeah. I agree now. Your cute [censored] diagram showed me the light!
Did you read the rest of the post?
The "pan+filter" vs "cooler-line flush" thing has been dealt with extensively here on BITOG.
The conclusion: changing the filter is a good thing, not a bad thing, but it is NOT required in a healthy trans if flushes are done on a sensible interval.
I'm in a grumpy mood today, and shouldn't be on here. I'm done now.
Yeah. I agree now. Your cute [censored] diagram showed me the light!
Did you read the rest of the post?
The "pan+filter" vs "cooler-line flush" thing has been dealt with extensively here on BITOG.
The conclusion: changing the filter is a good thing, not a bad thing, but it is NOT required in a healthy trans if flushes are done on a sensible interval.
I'm in a grumpy mood today, and shouldn't be on here. I'm done now.
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Our trans rebuilder would only warranty a trans if we used an in line filter with it.
Another thumbs up for a Magnefine or similar filter.
Another thumbs up for a Magnefine or similar filter.
If there's one thing I agree with it's the obsession with clean lubricants around here.
But anyone who spends time under vehicles knows that OEM is hard to beat. Period. Especially if you're concerned with longevity.
I'd be willing to bet you that the OEM filter captures exactly what it is intended to, and probably the balance of particles is not harmful to the trans. As many trans as I've personally had the pans off and seen the huge amount of gook present I cannot believe anyone would not want to first change the filter.
Then add whatever Magnetized gimmick you need to reduce your particle count to whatever magical number you have arbitrarily decided is best!
But anyone who spends time under vehicles knows that OEM is hard to beat. Period. Especially if you're concerned with longevity.
I'd be willing to bet you that the OEM filter captures exactly what it is intended to, and probably the balance of particles is not harmful to the trans. As many trans as I've personally had the pans off and seen the huge amount of gook present I cannot believe anyone would not want to first change the filter.
Then add whatever Magnetized gimmick you need to reduce your particle count to whatever magical number you have arbitrarily decided is best!
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
Originally Posted By: Kaboomba
There is really no need to open the pan, no need to replace the filter. You will introduce more contamination than you will catch with the new in-pan filter.
Strongly disagree! You can get away with what you say after the first change, but some 75 percent of the contamination generated in an automatic over it's life occurs in the first 5000 miles.
As to introducing more contamination... not unless you drop the pan in the middle of a dust storm. If you pull the pan in a reasonably clean environment, clean it well and reinstall it, what danger is there? Now if you don't have a half-decent place to do it, common sense dictates not doing it until you find one.
I would have to agree with Jim 100%
Originally Posted By: Kaboomba
There is really no need to open the pan, no need to replace the filter. You will introduce more contamination than you will catch with the new in-pan filter.
Strongly disagree! You can get away with what you say after the first change, but some 75 percent of the contamination generated in an automatic over it's life occurs in the first 5000 miles.
As to introducing more contamination... not unless you drop the pan in the middle of a dust storm. If you pull the pan in a reasonably clean environment, clean it well and reinstall it, what danger is there? Now if you don't have a half-decent place to do it, common sense dictates not doing it until you find one.
I would have to agree with Jim 100%
While you can get away with a flush, the most complete way is to drop the pan, change the filter, flush, then add a Magnefine or other filter.
I've flushed the transmission without changing the filter before. The transmission didn't die. The most recent transmission service did yank the pan to replace the filter. FWIW...
There's also a Magnefine on the return line waiting for spring to be replaced with another one.
While it's not BITOG best practice to flush the transmission without a new filter being installed, it's NOT going to kill a healthy transmission. Even flushing it is more maintenance than most folks do on their transmissions.
We do get a bit obsessive about best practice on here...
I've flushed the transmission without changing the filter before. The transmission didn't die. The most recent transmission service did yank the pan to replace the filter. FWIW...
There's also a Magnefine on the return line waiting for spring to be replaced with another one.
While it's not BITOG best practice to flush the transmission without a new filter being installed, it's NOT going to kill a healthy transmission. Even flushing it is more maintenance than most folks do on their transmissions.
We do get a bit obsessive about best practice on here...
Once that first pan drop is done, the original filter is replaced and a Magnefine added, I wouldn't argue too hard against not dropping the pan again. MAYBE ditto if you drove your rig home from the lot and installed a Magnefine or other good inline filter on a fresh transmission. But a used trans, no way. Drop the pan. If you saw the magnet in my 4R75 pan after just 9K miles, you'd know why I got this religion.
I know that when you get a filter from Ford, SOMETIMES at least, it's an SPX Filtran. I know they are boxed by some retailers and you have to look to find the SPX Filtran markings on the filter. I honestly don't know if they have a retail line that's sold over the counter.
I know that when you get a filter from Ford, SOMETIMES at least, it's an SPX Filtran. I know they are boxed by some retailers and you have to look to find the SPX Filtran markings on the filter. I honestly don't know if they have a retail line that's sold over the counter.
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