Trans flush after 30k with Dexron VI

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I just did a BITOG-approved 'bucket flush' on the wife's '01 Chevy Lumina today. It's a method that I initially had reservations about (seeings how a transmission requires lube oil returning from the cooler circuit), but people on this site have convinced me that my concerns were unfounded (since only the parts turning at idle are the torque converter, input shaft, pump, and forward clutch hub).

I bought this car a few years back with 159,000 miles on it. This was from a fleet auction at the local college. Looked and drove like a new car... all highway miles, excellent maintenance (including records). Included in the laundry-list of maintenance & repairs that I did to the car before handing it over to the wife was a transmission filter change and refill with Dexron VI (latest and greatest... had just been released by GM). I also added a tranny cooler from an '04 Ford Expedition (ebay), my own custom-made filter base with a small-black Chevy oil filter (later upgraded to the Duramax filter, with a larger can and a built-in 10psi bypass), and welded provisions for a drain plug in the transmission pan. I've been replacing that in-line filter yearly.

I know that a flush wasn't really necessary 30k later, especially considering that DexVI is supposed to last forever (more or less). But this car has always had a soft 1-2 upshift at full throttle (flawless otherwise). From what I've read, this is a common problem with these vehicles... I don't THINK DexVI is the cause, but it's worth investigating. And I've recently come into a MASSIVE stash of Castrol Transynd ATF (fully synthetic Dex III, meets Allison's TES-295 spec). I also wanted to inspect the pan for debris to get an idea of how long I can reasonably extend the pan-drop interval with this setup.

Sorry, I didn't bother with pictures. But the pan was pretty much spotless. There was a thin film on the pan magnet- no other debris or crud besides that. I went ahead and replaced the filter since I already had one, and augmented the pan magnet with a hard-drive magnet that I recently salvaged (for those not nerdy enough to be familiar with hard-drive magnets, these are so strong that pliers are required if you want to remove one that's stuck to a flat piece of steel). I made sure it was stuck well away from any solenoids or wiring, just in case.

This tranny has a pan-drop capacity of about 7 quarts, and a total capacity of 10-12 quarts (depending on who you ask). With the pan back up, I dumped 14 quarts of Transynd into the transmission, ran a cooler line into a bucket, pumped out 7 quarts, and topped off.

Conclusions: There was so little crud in the pan (I'm assuming that the inline filter caught most of it) that I think I'll have no problem leaving the suction filter in place for 100k miles. I'll probably stick with 30k drain & fills and annual inline filter replacements from now on (still more maintenance than required, but I'm a bit obsessive about this sort of thing... and I mean to get AT LEAST 300k out of this car). I'll give this new fluid about 1000 miles to get good and soaked into the clutches, then check the 1-2 shift. I don't expect any noticeable difference... but might get lucky.
 
30K may be overkill for the fluid change but that is what I would do. Once a year for the in-line filter change is waaaayyy overkill. Change it when you do the dump and fill fluid change.
 
Yes, I agree that it's overkill. I was changing the filter yearly for a while because my welded-up filter-head has no bypass, and I didn't want to risk damaging the transmission. But now that I've found the Duramax upgrade with the built-in bypass, I'll switch to a more reasonable interval.
 
This is the wife's car, so I haven't driven it in a few days. I didn't notice any difference immediately after the flush, and she hasn't mentioned anything (and probably won't so long as the car moves under its own power in ANY fashion).

I'll give it some time and miles for the new fluid to soak into the friction material, then do a couple of full-throttle 1-2 upshifts and see if I can tell any difference... maybe next week. I don't expect any change, but maybe I'll be surprised.
 
Wow - you really overfilled the transmission before draining it via cooler line. Most people just go with 2-3 QTs and pump that out, then add 2-3 QTs and repeat.

As far as whats moving in park at idle, whatever is moving is still lubricated by the transmission pump pumping in ATF through the transmission. The path for the cooler return line is just to dump it back to the pan, so there is no lubrication of parts in that path.
 
Originally Posted By: bmwtechguy
On some transmissions the cooler return does go back and lubricate part of the gear train on its way back down to the pan.


Yes, that's the case with most automatics (maybe all?). That's why it's generally a bad idea to tow a vehicle with an (unmodified) automatic transmission in neutral with the engine not running... it'll tear up the transmission in short order. This is why the RV crowd prefers certain small 4wd vehicles to tow behind those land yachts... 'cause you can put the transfer case in neutral.

But a BITOG discussion on this matter a couple years ago convinced me that this is pretty much a non-issue when doing a bucket flush. Most of the transmission isn't turning and therefore doesn't require lubrication. Those parts that are turning will be mostly (if not entirely) lubed by the pump before the fluid exits to the cooler.

Originally Posted By: Donald
Wow - you really overfilled the transmission before draining it via cooler line. Most people just go with 2-3 QTs and pump that out, then add 2-3 QTs and repeat.


Yeah, this whole excercize was as much experiement as maintanence. As long as no fluid was coming out of the case vent (clearly visible on this car), I saw no reason not to just dump all the fluid in, then pump the excess fluid into a bucket, flushing the torque converter, filter, and two coolers in the process. With a little careful measurement of how much fluid drained out of the pan... and by measuring how much fluid was pumped out of the cooler line, this was a pretty quick and clean operation.
 
There are some variations in the bucket flush.
A good and safe one is to mark the 'dump' bucket - make marks for how much comes out, in 1/2 qt or qt lines.
Then use a funnel on the inlet line and balance the flow.
Have your sauce ready and be quick, and have kill switch or a helper handy also.
[I find helpers unreliable and slow to respond.]
 
Yes it is... it's the most expensive ATF that I'm aware of. And yet mechanics at a Detroit/Allison shop tend to let partially empty jugs of the stuff accumulate under workbenches. Luckily there are conscientious employees around who prevent such clutter from piling up.

After letting the Transynd soak into the clutches for about a week, I made a couple of full-throttle 1-2 upshifts today. There is definitely a change in the 1-2 shift. Previously with the DexVI (actually about 65% DexVI/35% DexIII), the 1-2 shift was not only soft, but felt like it would slip and then grab... not a pleasant feeling. With the Transynd (should be 80-90% Transynd considering my thorough flush), the 1-2 full-throttle upshift is still softer than I'd prefer, but there was no slip-and-grab behavior. The shift was smooth and even.

I wouldn't speculate on the quality or applicability of DexVI vs. Transynd based on my highly unscientific study. And it's also worth noting that DexVI (~65%) has worked flawlessly in my '94 Corsica. But I think it's worth remembering that the friction properties of DexVI are somewhat different than those of DexIII (Transynd says DexronIII(g) on the label, along with TES-295). Whitewolf could probably elaborate on this, but I've read that DexVI was designed specifically to prevent a certain 'shudder' in applications that experienced 'shudder' with DexIII(h?). To me, that means that the friction properties are slightly different and/or more tightly controlled.

While my 4T60E works just fine with Dexron VI, my 4T65E seems to work better with transynd. YMMV
 
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