You got me all worked up over this. Come on. You got to spend $15 on a bottle of something to satisfy the curiosity.
I got an old can of Trans-X I could send you.
I got an old can of Trans-X I could send you.
Tranny dying, last ditch efforts?
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LOL. Your story is truly inspirational.
It seems that I should do more than just dump something in. A pan drop with new filter and fluid seems like a necessity before the miracle worker is called upon to do some faith healing.
Can anyone classify the transmission snake oils? Seems like Seafoam is more of a cleaner/un-sticker while the Lucas is a thickener. To me, Lubegard red is not a band-aid type, quick fix product.
Which type should I use, errrr throw money down the toilet on?
It seems that I should do more than just dump something in. A pan drop with new filter and fluid seems like a necessity before the miracle worker is called upon to do some faith healing.
Can anyone classify the transmission snake oils? Seems like Seafoam is more of a cleaner/un-sticker while the Lucas is a thickener. To me, Lubegard red is not a band-aid type, quick fix product.
Which type should I use, errrr throw money down the toilet on?
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Seems like Seafoam is more of a cleaner/un-sticker while the Lucas is a thickener. To me, Lubegard red is not a band-aid type, quick fix product.
To quote Mick Jagger in "Free Jack" "Correct."
Before I added the Seafoam to my transmission, my issues included
- hard shifting from park to reverse or drive, (the car would "jump" or "lurch" into gear).
- slipping in first gear upon acceleration.
- "yawning" or "pausing" between 3rd and 4th gears.
- Occasional "slipping" or "hesitating" while traveling at highway speeds.
Under the wise guidance of Molakule, I was directed to a solvent (a cleaner for varnish buildup in transmission valve body). I chose "Seafoam" because it specifically says it contains no seal swellers.
Literally, within two miles of adding this product, the transmission started shifting like new, (I was so happy I wanted to cry tears of joy).
Keep in mind, this was after adding TWO bottles of Lucas Transfix to the ailing transmission and driving it for enough miles that if it was going to work, it would have, (in fact, it started getting worse).
Seafoam Transtune - white can, red writing, red cap, red fluid. (Pours like kerosene).
My Taurus is still going strong on this mixture.
http://youtu.be/SwMZDwEor-o
Seems like Seafoam is more of a cleaner/un-sticker while the Lucas is a thickener. To me, Lubegard red is not a band-aid type, quick fix product.
To quote Mick Jagger in "Free Jack" "Correct."
Before I added the Seafoam to my transmission, my issues included
- hard shifting from park to reverse or drive, (the car would "jump" or "lurch" into gear).
- slipping in first gear upon acceleration.
- "yawning" or "pausing" between 3rd and 4th gears.
- Occasional "slipping" or "hesitating" while traveling at highway speeds.
Under the wise guidance of Molakule, I was directed to a solvent (a cleaner for varnish buildup in transmission valve body). I chose "Seafoam" because it specifically says it contains no seal swellers.
Literally, within two miles of adding this product, the transmission started shifting like new, (I was so happy I wanted to cry tears of joy).
Keep in mind, this was after adding TWO bottles of Lucas Transfix to the ailing transmission and driving it for enough miles that if it was going to work, it would have, (in fact, it started getting worse).
Seafoam Transtune - white can, red writing, red cap, red fluid. (Pours like kerosene).
My Taurus is still going strong on this mixture.
http://youtu.be/SwMZDwEor-o
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A little more info on your daughter's transmission. Note the reference problems to your transmission include sticky innards.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_AXOD_transmission
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_AXOD_transmission
I think if it's not shifting out of first gear and she has a job she needs to get to you probably need to move on. Sad for BITOG but that's life.
I agree used prices are absurd. Corollas are expensive because they are so reliable (having owned one there aren't really a lot of other things going for them). You'll get more for your money on a similarly reliable car with less brand/model appeal like a Pontiac Vibe.
Best of luck, I assume with such a short timeframe you have to see what's available and buy on condition, and that's not always a bad way to look either.
I agree used prices are absurd. Corollas are expensive because they are so reliable (having owned one there aren't really a lot of other things going for them). You'll get more for your money on a similarly reliable car with less brand/model appeal like a Pontiac Vibe.
Best of luck, I assume with such a short timeframe you have to see what's available and buy on condition, and that's not always a bad way to look either.
Nothing in a bottle can rebuild a transmission that is mechanically out the door. If there is something wrong with the fluid, then changing the fluid works. If there is something wrong with the seals, plates, etc, then there is nothing you can do other than to rebuild/replace the the transmission.
Your choice, if you want to keep the car, replace the transmission. $800 is not the worst and then it is about other general maintenance with this vehicle. Still cheaper than a new car...
Your choice, if you want to keep the car, replace the transmission. $800 is not the worst and then it is about other general maintenance with this vehicle. Still cheaper than a new car...
Seems like a great car for GearHeadTool that used to be on here. He'd take that thing in a second and probably pay around $900 for it. Then he'd dump all the fluids immediately, start numerous threads about it, take videos, etc and entertain us all for a few weeks. Then get banned for awhile, resurface as someone new. Ahhh, the good old days.
Well, the great GearHeadTool experiment is on!
I picked up the car from our mechanics home and drove to my place. For about five miles, it actually drove o.k., then it started to "crunch down" to below 20mph. Drove fine in low 1, keeping below 4k rpm and 30mph. In D, would hit 25, then clunk down/disengage to 20mph then reengage.
Installed $10 of SeaFoam Transtune on way home.
Blizzard conditions in mid Michigan right now. 5F and below with high winds...not fit to do anything outdoors.
I will decide if I will do pan drop/filter/fluid.....then Lucas super thick miracle. LOL. I am considering the thicker Castrol fluid.
I have no hope whatsoever....truly a GHT experiment.
Those still recommending investing in this vehicle.....the numbers simply don't add up for the personal situation at hand. Maybe for a second car beater, o.k.. For a daily driver, no. Invest $2000+ in this car vs. another car????....one never knows.
I picked up the car from our mechanics home and drove to my place. For about five miles, it actually drove o.k., then it started to "crunch down" to below 20mph. Drove fine in low 1, keeping below 4k rpm and 30mph. In D, would hit 25, then clunk down/disengage to 20mph then reengage.
Installed $10 of SeaFoam Transtune on way home.
Blizzard conditions in mid Michigan right now. 5F and below with high winds...not fit to do anything outdoors.
I will decide if I will do pan drop/filter/fluid.....then Lucas super thick miracle. LOL. I am considering the thicker Castrol fluid.
I have no hope whatsoever....truly a GHT experiment.
Those still recommending investing in this vehicle.....the numbers simply don't add up for the personal situation at hand. Maybe for a second car beater, o.k.. For a daily driver, no. Invest $2000+ in this car vs. another car????....one never knows.
YES!!!! Let the madness begin!!!
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Those still recommending investing in this vehicle.....the numbers simply don't add up for the personal situation at hand. Maybe for a second car beater, o.k.. For a daily driver, no. Invest $2000+ in this car vs. another car????....one never knows.
For as long as the vehicle's structural components (frame) is not rust/destroye (and maybe catastrophic electrical), repairing a car (if done right) will tend to be the most cost-effective option. The $2K in repairs to get a serviceable will still be cheaper than going out and buying replacement. Plus, you know the previous service history. For me, it would be a question of the rust from your region. Rust+repair=no-go. Rust-free(ish), then repair is on the table.
Now, it is a question of whether or not you want your daughter driving it is a different consideration. Some people can handle a older car, some can not. My wife has a panic attack over the tire-pressure monitoring system, god help her with a serious issue.
Those still recommending investing in this vehicle.....the numbers simply don't add up for the personal situation at hand. Maybe for a second car beater, o.k.. For a daily driver, no. Invest $2000+ in this car vs. another car????....one never knows.
For as long as the vehicle's structural components (frame) is not rust/destroye (and maybe catastrophic electrical), repairing a car (if done right) will tend to be the most cost-effective option. The $2K in repairs to get a serviceable will still be cheaper than going out and buying replacement. Plus, you know the previous service history. For me, it would be a question of the rust from your region. Rust+repair=no-go. Rust-free(ish), then repair is on the table.
Now, it is a question of whether or not you want your daughter driving it is a different consideration. Some people can handle a older car, some can not. My wife has a panic attack over the tire-pressure monitoring system, god help her with a serious issue.
Why don't you swap cars with your daughter until the trans heals itself or dies? I do this all the time if one of our cars has a potential issue brewing until its fixed.
Also I wouldn't assume the struts are shot. You will know if one is completely gone as that one tire will bounce like a basketball on broken pavement, if that's not happening its good enough for a responsible driver IMO. Even then, just replace the one, its not going to care if one tire has fractionally more damping or spring rate than the other...
Also I wouldn't assume the struts are shot. You will know if one is completely gone as that one tire will bounce like a basketball on broken pavement, if that's not happening its good enough for a responsible driver IMO. Even then, just replace the one, its not going to care if one tire has fractionally more damping or spring rate than the other...
LOL, you guys do not give up regarding the repair scenario. I appreciate the effort. I didn't elaborate on all the required repairs, but the mechanic also said it needs new lower intake gaskets.
Again, I came up with close to $2000 to get current needs done. Rust is started well, but not a deal breaker.
He also advised that front steering components had some play, but he/I did not investigate too much. Tie rod ends, ball joints, front alignment, etc.????.....he advised "be ready, next" Again, Michigan conditions: miles AND time wears things out.
The cooling system was previously a bit problematic due to known issues: the firewall cooling manifold I replaced (rust thru) and I backflushed the plugged heater core (known issue) due to this engine's tendency to emit rust particles.
It's not feasible at this time for me to be working on this myself over several weeks, thus requiring our mechanic friend do all the work.
Not going to loan our(only)near new vehicle to daughter. Sorry. We do the parent assist thing too much already. "Kids" (35 LOL) need to develop self reliance.....sometimes "tough love" is in order.
The brutal weather here is complicating things. The mechanic's wife is due (baby) next week. Bad timing all around.
My wife has lifelong health issues. My sanity is waning, but I remain positive. One day, one crises at a time.
Again, I came up with close to $2000 to get current needs done. Rust is started well, but not a deal breaker.
He also advised that front steering components had some play, but he/I did not investigate too much. Tie rod ends, ball joints, front alignment, etc.????.....he advised "be ready, next" Again, Michigan conditions: miles AND time wears things out.
The cooling system was previously a bit problematic due to known issues: the firewall cooling manifold I replaced (rust thru) and I backflushed the plugged heater core (known issue) due to this engine's tendency to emit rust particles.
It's not feasible at this time for me to be working on this myself over several weeks, thus requiring our mechanic friend do all the work.
Not going to loan our(only)near new vehicle to daughter. Sorry. We do the parent assist thing too much already. "Kids" (35 LOL) need to develop self reliance.....sometimes "tough love" is in order.
The brutal weather here is complicating things. The mechanic's wife is due (baby) next week. Bad timing all around.
Originally Posted By: FutureDoc
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Those still recommending investing in this vehicle.....the numbers simply don't add up for the personal situation at hand. Maybe for a second car beater, o.k.. For a daily driver, no. Invest $2000+ in this car vs. another car????....one never knows.
For as long as the vehicle's structural components (frame) is not rust/destroye (and maybe catastrophic electrical), repairing a car (if done right) will tend to be the most cost-effective option. The $2K in repairs to get a serviceable will still be cheaper than going out and buying replacement. Plus, you know the previous service history. For me, it would be a question of the rust from your region. Rust+repair=no-go. Rust-free(ish), then repair is on the table.
Now, it is a question of whether or not you want your daughter driving it is a different consideration. Some people can handle a older car, some can not. My wife has a panic attack over the tire-pressure monitoring system, god help her with a serious issue.
I'm a strong believer in this kind of thinking. Consider -
- you know the vehicles history.
- tag, title costs on replacement vehicle.
- if in fact, the transmission is in need of rebuilding, with proper servicing done at a quality shop, you could easily get another 120,000 miles on this transmission, maybe more since you are a Bitoger who will religiously change fluid and filter ever 30,000 miles.
Aside from the water pump, are there any other major motor issues? I've had a couple of these 3.0 Vulcans and they are pretty tough. If the frame/structure of the car is in decent shape, I would definitely rebuild transmission as you would be hard pressed to find a decent 2,000 car you would want your daughter to drive.
My '93 Taurus has 160,000 miles on the original transmission so I know it's days are numbered. But when it does go to transmission heaven, I will in all probability have it rebuilt given the fact that the motor runs like a champ and in the past few years I've replaced water pump, starter, alternator, radiator, fuel pump, inner and outer tie rods and brakes. It's still cheaper than a car payment and I can park it anywhere I want with no fear.
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Those still recommending investing in this vehicle.....the numbers simply don't add up for the personal situation at hand. Maybe for a second car beater, o.k.. For a daily driver, no. Invest $2000+ in this car vs. another car????....one never knows.
For as long as the vehicle's structural components (frame) is not rust/destroye (and maybe catastrophic electrical), repairing a car (if done right) will tend to be the most cost-effective option. The $2K in repairs to get a serviceable will still be cheaper than going out and buying replacement. Plus, you know the previous service history. For me, it would be a question of the rust from your region. Rust+repair=no-go. Rust-free(ish), then repair is on the table.
Now, it is a question of whether or not you want your daughter driving it is a different consideration. Some people can handle a older car, some can not. My wife has a panic attack over the tire-pressure monitoring system, god help her with a serious issue.
I'm a strong believer in this kind of thinking. Consider -
- you know the vehicles history.
- tag, title costs on replacement vehicle.
- if in fact, the transmission is in need of rebuilding, with proper servicing done at a quality shop, you could easily get another 120,000 miles on this transmission, maybe more since you are a Bitoger who will religiously change fluid and filter ever 30,000 miles.
Aside from the water pump, are there any other major motor issues? I've had a couple of these 3.0 Vulcans and they are pretty tough. If the frame/structure of the car is in decent shape, I would definitely rebuild transmission as you would be hard pressed to find a decent 2,000 car you would want your daughter to drive.
My '93 Taurus has 160,000 miles on the original transmission so I know it's days are numbered. But when it does go to transmission heaven, I will in all probability have it rebuilt given the fact that the motor runs like a champ and in the past few years I've replaced water pump, starter, alternator, radiator, fuel pump, inner and outer tie rods and brakes. It's still cheaper than a car payment and I can park it anywhere I want with no fear.
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Not going to loan our(only)near new vehicle to daughter. Sorry. We do the parent assist thing too much already. "Kids" (35 LOL) need to develop self reliance.....sometimes "tough love" is in order.
35? . . . . 35?!?!?!?!? My daughter (22) and son in law (23), keep coming to me with financial issues, (car repair, electric bill, water bill, baby food bill) and you're saying this continues into their 30's?
I feel my sanity slipping already.
Not going to loan our(only)near new vehicle to daughter. Sorry. We do the parent assist thing too much already. "Kids" (35 LOL) need to develop self reliance.....sometimes "tough love" is in order.
35? . . . . 35?!?!?!?!? My daughter (22) and son in law (23), keep coming to me with financial issues, (car repair, electric bill, water bill, baby food bill) and you're saying this continues into their 30's?
I feel my sanity slipping already.
Originally Posted By: GreeCguy
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Not going to loan our(only)near new vehicle to daughter. Sorry. We do the parent assist thing too much already. "Kids" (35 LOL) need to develop self reliance.....sometimes "tough love" is in order.
35? . . . . 35?!?!?!?!? My daughter (22) and son in law (23), keep coming to me with financial issues, (car repair, electric bill, water bill, baby food bill) and you're saying this continues into their 30's?
I feel my sanity slipping already.
A must-see movie for EVERYONE contemplating becoming parents: STeve Martin's Parenthood
Watch this clip all the way thru....LOL The "old man" is contemplating the "black sheep" adult son :
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Not going to loan our(only)near new vehicle to daughter. Sorry. We do the parent assist thing too much already. "Kids" (35 LOL) need to develop self reliance.....sometimes "tough love" is in order.
35? . . . . 35?!?!?!?!? My daughter (22) and son in law (23), keep coming to me with financial issues, (car repair, electric bill, water bill, baby food bill) and you're saying this continues into their 30's?
I feel my sanity slipping already.
A must-see movie for EVERYONE contemplating becoming parents: STeve Martin's Parenthood
Watch this clip all the way thru....LOL The "old man" is contemplating the "black sheep" adult son :
Hey, I am in my early 30s and have worked/paid my own way through 10 years of college (cars paid off to boot)... that being said, the economy is not kind to sub-35 young professionals. There just is not any upward mobility to be had. Just surviving is a accomplishment.
I will resist the drama here, but for good measure, I drove the Taurus into a snow bank and spun the wheels wildly until "smoke" appeared, aka GHT.
I'm on the fast track here and can't do the whole GreeCguy technique.
I dumped in a can of SeaFoam Transomething on Friday and ran the car as much as possible.
Today I dropped the pan, but beforehand the dipstick read about 1 inch above the hot mark. Hmmmmmm (can't imagine it was the SFoam 24 oz.)
The fluid was brown, but did not seem to be burnt. It was changed about 35K ago.
Below are pictures of fragments found in the pan. Dark stuff is not metallic.
I am buttoning up the pan now. What a joy reuseable gaskets are!!!!!
I will install Warren Mercon V (high cst of 8.3 = good, I think).
Debating if I should add the Lucas snake oil or not. More cleaning?? VOTE!!!!!
I'm on the fast track here and can't do the whole GreeCguy technique.
I dumped in a can of SeaFoam Transomething on Friday and ran the car as much as possible.
Today I dropped the pan, but beforehand the dipstick read about 1 inch above the hot mark. Hmmmmmm (can't imagine it was the SFoam 24 oz.)
The fluid was brown, but did not seem to be burnt. It was changed about 35K ago.
Below are pictures of fragments found in the pan. Dark stuff is not metallic.
I am buttoning up the pan now. What a joy reuseable gaskets are!!!!!
I will install Warren Mercon V (high cst of 8.3 = good, I think).
Debating if I should add the Lucas snake oil or not. More cleaning?? VOTE!!!!!
ummmmmmm . . . . . mine didn't have these parts in the bottom of the pan when I dropped it. Not to be overly negative here, but I think Seafoam/Lucas might not help you at this point.
Installed new filter, mercon V, and
Lucas transmiracle
this afternoon.
Took the car out in less than ideal snow conditions and the transmission smoothed out and started shifting again, into 2nd., then into 3rd.. I couldn't go any faster than 40 mph due to the very snowy road conditions.
I drove about 10 miles, slowing down/speeding up gently. A few times it seemed to grab as I came to a complete stop, but I am not sure if the wheels might have locked up due to the slippery roads.
Definitely on borrowed time here. But, the car is better. Tough to tell when it will grenade totally.
It's been fun. Thanks for all the ideas and input. That Lucas stuff really IS a miracle product.
Took the car out in less than ideal snow conditions and the transmission smoothed out and started shifting again, into 2nd., then into 3rd.. I couldn't go any faster than 40 mph due to the very snowy road conditions.
I drove about 10 miles, slowing down/speeding up gently. A few times it seemed to grab as I came to a complete stop, but I am not sure if the wheels might have locked up due to the slippery roads.
Definitely on borrowed time here. But, the car is better. Tough to tell when it will grenade totally.
It's been fun. Thanks for all the ideas and input. That Lucas stuff really IS a miracle product.
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