TPMS emulator?

clinebarger said:
Picture of the connector?
Click to expand...
Apologies, I found it as 20791502

I'm glad I did a little more research because I had my USB converter on the lower left spade, which is actually RAP. I moved it up one which is 10A switched with ignition.

At the moment I'm just shoving these insulated female spades on the tiny male spades. It "works" for low-draw accys but it's hokey.

Here one is connected and one (red wire) is disconnected:
20250114_120801.webp


I've got the proper connector on order. Knock-offs are surprisingly plentiful and I'm gonna try one.
 
The subarus you get a little yellow flashy flashy then solid.. and a tpms malfunction pops up on the dash for about 5s.
I can deal with it.

The jeeps boy they were mega naggers.. beeps boops bonks chimes flashes messages popping up.. ugh.

The only reason I never ran winter tpms on subies is the computer would only hold 1 set of tires in memory making it a pain.
IIRC since 22-24 depending on subaru model the new systems hold more and auto recognize them more like the jeeps.
Jeeps.. auto register and auto detect boom.
 
Rand said:
The subarus you get a little yellow flashy flashy then solid.. and a tpms malfunction pops up on the dash for about 5s.
I can deal with it.

The jeeps boy they were mega naggers.. beeps boops bonks chimes flashes messages popping up.. ugh.

The only reason I never ran winter tpms on subies is the computer would only hold 1 set of tires in memory making it a pain.
IIRC since 22-24 depending on subaru model the new systems hold more and auto recognize them more like the jeeps.
Jeeps.. auto register and auto detect boom.
Click to expand...
Yeah, every vehicle is different. '04-08 F150 just flashes the TPMS light then leaves it on solid. No noises and the light is small.

But an '06 Expedition does a shrill beep at start-up and requires you to clear the message every time. Ditto for this '08 GMC actually.

I'm considering one of these emulators for my mom's '18 KL Cherokee. Every morning when it's cold it says all four are too low. She understands it's because of the temperature but it still causes her great anxiety to see "error" warnings.
 
Rand said:
The subarus you get a little yellow flashy flashy then solid.. and a tpms malfunction pops up on the dash for about 5s.
I can deal with it.

The jeeps boy they were mega naggers.. beeps boops bonks chimes flashes messages popping up.. ugh.

The only reason I never ran winter tpms on subies is the computer would only hold 1 set of tires in memory making it a pain.
IIRC since 22-24 depending on subaru model the new systems hold more and auto recognize them more like the jeeps.
Jeeps.. auto register and auto detect boom.
Click to expand...
Some of the TPMS brands out there can be cloned, I think the Autel MX one for sure can. So if you don't want to deal with TPMS pipe bomb and the compatibility, not waking up, leaking, lawsuit, etc. You can give the Autel MX a try. Last year I bought a set of these Autel MX sensors and went to America Tires, and they programmed it wrong once after tossing away the old one, and just get the reading out of the ECU with their tools and clone the Autel MX sensors based off what the ECU was expecting. Pepboys try to gouge me by charging mount / remount whereas America just pop the bead to replace and put it back on, and charge me like $10 to program.

You can even "lease" a tool from Amazon to read from your existing ECU or tire, and program Autel's MX sensors, yourself if you don't want to go to a tire store.
 
PandaBear said:
Some of the TPMS brands out there can be cloned, I think the Autel MX one for sure can. So if you don't want to deal with TPMS pipe bomb and the compatibility, not waking up, leaking, lawsuit, etc. You can give the Autel MX a try. Last year I bought a set of these Autel MX sensors and went to America Tires, and they programmed it wrong once after tossing away the old one, and just get the reading out of the ECU with their tools and clone the Autel MX sensors based off what the ECU was expecting. Pepboys try to gouge me by charging mount / remount whereas America just pop the bead to replace and put it back on, and charge me like $10 to program.

You can even "lease" a tool from Amazon to read from your existing ECU or tire, and program Autel's MX sensors, yourself if you don't want to go to a tire store.
Click to expand...
That is an option but an unnecessary one for me. I assume you hit reply in general and not to anything I said specifically?
 
After a little mental wrestling I got my Spooftpms emulator to work just fine on my GMT900. No TPMS dash light, no messages about checking tire pressure on this or that wheel position and no more fussing with dead or dying sensors. I opted for the 12v version. Great customer service/technical support by email as well.
 
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After a couple weeks this GMT900 was giving TPMS warnings again. I haven't had a second to look at it. I'm hoping it was my pathetic power connection. I have the proper connector sitting here so someday we'll see.....
 
D60 said:
After a couple weeks this GMT900 was giving TPMS warnings again. I haven't had a second to look at it. I'm hoping it was my pathetic power connection. I have the proper connector sitting here so someday we'll see.....
Click to expand...
Quoting myself, I don't think anything was really wrong with this emulator as it resumed normal operation. The one time I did see the TPMS warning I think I just went KOEO, or maybe I briefly started it -- can't recall.

Best guess the battery in the unit fades with prolonged sitting, and this truck isn't used everyday.

I don't know, but it's fine. I did wire it properly through the MBEC, although my previous McGuyver connections were solid (enough)

Inexpensive Chinese MBEC connector:
20250227_163808.webp

Red arrow indicates connector installed. The heat shrink butt connector in foreground powers the USB to the emulator (switched with key-on)
20250227_165212.webp
 
The corded device needs a 12 V power outlet and costs 5 euros more due to more parts and labour involved. Otherwise the battery version will work just fine for a predicted 7.5 – 10 years irrespective of the driving regime, in most cases.
The batteries are replaceable (2 x AA). However, for prolonged periods of non-use and especially if the car sits under the scorching sun then there is the risk for them to leak. Avoid that by screwing and unscrewing 4 screws and pulling the batteries out when not using the vehicle for more than 2 – 3 months. This does not happen all that often though; how many times did you find your spent remote control batteries having leaked ? Then again, remote controls are kept at room temperature.
Also, for those of you with a lot of really cold days throughout the winter: the alkaline chemistry is not suited for the job. They retain about 16% capacity at -17 C (0 F) and 66% at 0 C (32 F). Once the alkalines deplete either switch to the more costly lithium AA bateries – good down to -40 C ( -40 F); also they got a non leaky chemistry. Or go for the corded device.
Click to expand...
 
Yep, hence my question: we use lithium in long term, low draw things like smoke detectors. I wonder if lithium letter batts would be better or worse for something similar, but in a vehicle cabin?

The seller mentions only alkaline, thus, again....my question re: lithium
 
See last paragraph - it talks about lithiums in the context of climates: hot vs. frigid
 
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