Toyota T-IV ATF Options

[J_R]

Originally Posted By: Gannet167
Maybe I'm coming at this wrong, my owner's manual actually says "Genuine Toyota Type T-IV" it doesn't say "3309" anywhere. If I interpret this, maybe they're the same spec?

Maxlife is "T-IV", so is Castrol Syn, PetroCan DuraDrive, so.... All of these would be valid options and not necessarily any less suitable than Mobil Super 3009.


Toyota T-IV and Mobil 3309 are the same thing. The spec'd OEM fluid.

Maxlife is "supported for use" (by Valvoline) in 3309/T-IV applications but does not have official manufacturer approval.

http://www.valvoline.com/valint/international/english/static_document/MaxLife_ATF_Rev_2013.08.08.pdf

 

[dwcopple]

Originally Posted By: krismoriah72
Valvoline Maxlife

http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/maxlife/automatic-transmission-fluid/37
+1, I am running ML ATF in 2 T-IV applications and it has exceeded performance of the OEM Toyo stuff by far. Especially in very cold temp first shifts.

 

[Oro_O]

Originally Posted By: Gannet167
Maxlife is "T-IV", so is Castrol Syn, PetroCan DuraDrive, so.... All of these would be valid options and not necessarily any less suitable than Mobil Super 3009.

Correct. There is also a good synthetic made by Mag1 (Warren). They have a low-vis formulation that is more like WS, and a regular that is closer (and recommended for) T-IV. I have used it in T-IV spec'd Aisin transmissions with great success (and MaxLife, too).

 

[J_R]

Originally Posted By: Or
Originally Posted By: Gannet167
Maxlife is "T-IV", so is Castrol Syn, PetroCan DuraDrive, so.... All of these would be valid options and not necessarily any less suitable than Mobil Super 3009.

Correct.

Fail. Maxlife is NOT Type-IV. Sheesh.

 

[Oro_O]

Originally Posted By: J_R

Fail. Maxlife is NOT Type-IV. Sheesh.

Double face-palm fail. Read the label. It is recommended by the manufacturer for T-IV applications. See the little "quotes" around the comment, that's a qualification. You seemed to understand it a few posts ago then fell flat. The .pdf is availbale on their web-site, but you seem to now it.

 

[Gannet167]

I think it's going to be MaxLife with possibly some Lubegard red. I found a chart online that says my transmission takes 13 quarts and dropping the pan removes 2. So I'd need to drop the pan 10 times to get 80% of the fluid out. Refil Capacity Chart So a flush is required to change the fluid out.

The dealer uses a cooling line flush system - I'd prefer a pump inlet flush but I don't think anyone uses them around here. Is there any advantage to using the dealer's cooling line flush machine or just doing the flush myself using the cooling line? It's the same thing is it not?

 

[Leo99]

Originally Posted By: Gannet167
I think it's going to be MaxLife with possibly some Lubegard red. I found a chart online that says my transmission takes 13 quarts and dropping the pan removes 2. So I'd need to drop the pan 10 times to get 80% of the fluid out. Refil Capacity Chart So a flush is required to change the fluid out.

The dealer uses a cooling line flush system - I'd prefer a pump inlet flush but I don't think anyone uses them around here. Is there any advantage to using the dealer's cooling line flush machine or just doing the flush myself using the cooling line? It's the same thing is it not?


Is your goal to have pretty red fluid in your tranny or to keep the truck running as long as possible? If it's running perfect now and hasn't been abused and if you plan to drive it nicely in the future, doing nothing will likely get you another 50k to 100k miles. I would use the OEM fluid and just drain and refill. I wouldn't drop the pan or mess with flushes.

If you take it offroad and do a lot of 4 wheeling, then the flush might be a good idea.

 

[Gannet167]

The truck's first 100k miles were not mine and I don't know how it was used. The previous owner had the trans fluid "flushed" a few years ago, but I have no idea how well this was done or if the correct fluid was used (the same guy put dex-cool in the rad...)

The fluid looks fairly red, but has a bit of dark clutch like residue on the tip of the dipstick. There is no filter in this transmission. So I want to drop the pan to remove the residue. I will also be adding an in-line filter to the cooler line. Since draining the pan only removes 15% of the fluid, it's hardly worth doing. IF the fluid is contaminated, it would take over 10 drain/fills to remove 80% of it.

The fluid is probably fine for 50k, but I'd like to keep it longer than that. It also takes a long time to engage in gear when it's cold, like last night when it was -9f, leading me to think a synthetic would perform better than whatever is in there now.

 

[Leo99]

Originally Posted By: Gannet167
The truck's first 100k miles were not mine and I don't know how it was used. The previous owner had the trans fluid "flushed" a few years ago, but I have no idea how well this was done or if the correct fluid was used (the same guy put dex-cool in the rad...)

The fluid looks fairly red, but has a bit of dark clutch like residue on the tip of the dipstick. There is no filter in this transmission. So I want to drop the pan to remove the residue. I will also be adding an in-line filter to the cooler line. Since draining the pan only removes 15% of the fluid, it's hardly worth doing. IF the fluid is contaminated, it would take over 10 drain/fills to remove 80% of it.

The fluid is probably fine for 50k, but I'd like to keep it longer than that. It also takes a long time to engage in gear when it's cold, like last night when it was -9f, leading me to think a synthetic would perform better than whatever is in there now.


Sending the ATF out for testing is a great idea rather than assuming the fluid is contaminated. Personally, I think you're over analyzing and routine maintenance is all that is needed. If the ATF was flushed a few years ago and it hasn't blown up yet, I'd assume it was done correctly. Fluid isn't going to stay bright red. Maybe it's clutch residue but I wouldn't assume that and take corrective action until I was reasonably sure that was the case. However, you seem very convinced to drop the pan and replace the fluid. Good luck.

 

[Bandito440]

This seems to be a regular topic here. I emailed XOM to ask about it.

Originally Posted By: Bandito440
I believe that Exxon-Mobil produces all of the following automatic transmission fluids:

Mobil 3309
Toyota T-IV
Volvo JWS 3309
Mazda T-IV/3309
Saab JWS 3309
BMW/Mini JWS 3309

Are these all the same fluid? Im trying to determine if Mobil 3309 and Toyota T-IV are the same fulid, or just compatible.

And their response:

Originally Posted By: XOM
They're all the same product. Mobil 3309 is the one you will need.

-Mauricio

--
Thank you for contacting ExxonMobil.
If you have further questions you may contact 1-800-ASK-MOBIL.

-MJ

I hope this helps someone.

 

[J_R]

Originally Posted By: Or
Originally Posted By: J_R

Fail. Maxlife is NOT Type-IV. Sheesh.

Double face-palm fail. Read the label. It is recommended by the manufacturer for T-IV applications. See the little "quotes" around the comment, that's a qualification. You seemed to understand it a few posts ago then fell flat. The .pdf is availbale on their web-site, but you seem to now it.


I understand the quotation marks and the nuances, it's just that when someone says "Maxlife is T-IV" and you reply "correct" that is just adding to the confusion, IMO. I don't care if T-IV is in quotes or not. Anyway, back to palming yourself.

 

[Greasymechtech]

Worth reading.
http://drivelinenews.com/LUB013/documents/9684-Product-Sheet.pdf
http://www.aftonchemical.com/ProductDataSheets/Driveline/HiTEC-2018_PDS.pdf
Can't find the PDF Infineums t4705.

BTW, my qualifications are enough to support my opionion. And, my resume isn't up for debate here. You couldn't pay me enough for my knowledge. Since it is in my nature to advise and help, I will. But in a free country, do whatever you want.