Toyota Rav4 rebuild

[George1954]

I am completing a top end rebuild of a 2003 4 cylinder Rav4 with the 1AZFE 2.0L engine. I fell prey to the infamous stripped head bolt threads in the block problem at 165,000 miles. The engine overheated a couple of times when the problem showed up and the head was no doubt leaking for a while before I got to it. I have used Kendall Titanium 5W30 semi synthetic since the car was new and always had good clean oil. When this problem developed I was surprised to see varnish developing so fast through the valve cover oil fill opening and when I tore it down for the rebuild (block thread inserts, timing set, head rebuild, injector rebuild, water pump, etc) I was shocked at how crispy the oil was in the top end. I have an opportunity to change oil if it make any sense, the engine is pretty cleaned out and the head is nice and shiny.

Was my burnt oil condition typical for a blown head gasket and overheat or was the legacy oil in this car to blame?

Should I change oil type/brand now or stick with what I was using, and if I should change what do you recommend? I am a big fan of Penzoil in other cars and have 200,000 miles on a 4.3L V6 using PYB. I don't care if I should use Dino, Semi or Synth - whatever is the best choice for this car.

Thanks,

George

 

[tiger862]

I worked at Toyota so I know this engine well. Those engines did sludge up with conventional oil and eat heads. With synthetic blend or higher have seen them go 300k with regular maintenance. Most stripped treads were caused from Coolant in to long and causing overheat of head which stripped block. I always just put a new engine in and threw away old one since cam holder which is a tight gap since no bearing tends to wear out from water in oil and overheat. If oil pressure is good when hot then keep running blend for as long as engine last.

 

[George1954]

Should I stick with Kendall, switch to Penzoil semi or another suggestion?

 

[Nodak]

Originally Posted By: George1954
Should I stick with Kendall, switch to Penzoil semi or another suggestion?


I've got an 04 Rav with 202,000 on the same engine and I have been using 5-30 Maxlife since I bought it used at 148,000. Runs great and uses little oil. I'm going to keep using VML until the Rav drops - if ever.


_________________________
04 Rav4-5-30 VML and Wix filter
03 Corolla-5-30 QSUD and Wix filter

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: tiger862
I worked at Toyota so I know this engine well. Those engines did sludge up with conventional oil and eat heads. With synthetic blend or higher have seen them go 300k with regular maintenance. Most stripped treads were caused from Coolant in to long and causing overheat of head which stripped block. I always just put a new engine in and threw away old one since cam holder which is a tight gap since no bearing tends to wear out from water in oil and overheat. If oil pressure is good when hot then keep running blend for as long as engine last.


Is Toyota proud of this engine? Sounds like a poorly designed engine.

 

[Danno]

Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: tiger862
Most stripped treads were caused from Coolant in to long and causing overheat of head which stripped block.


Is Toyota proud of this engine? Sounds like a poorly designed engine.


Did you read this part of the post?


And do you stand by your question?

 

[Barkleymut]

Just curious what Toyota considered too long and what tiger considers too long??

 

[Clevy]

George oil choice really that important. If you like pennzoil then by all means use it. If Kendall is easier to get or cheaper use it.
Changing the oil at a proper interval is more important than brand

 

[George1954]

I went with Penzoil semi synthetic Dexos.

Thanks,

George

 

[tiger862]

To long is what got Toyota in trouble with there 3L V6. Manual states 100k or 5 years but there maintenance schedule is for 30k or 3 years. GM had a problem with Dexcool and they offered up to 300.00 for settlement and Toyota replaced many 3.0 some with over 200k with new engines from coolant damage to heads and head gaskets. They tried blaming gaskets at first until they seen pitting in coolant ports (aluminum head on cast iron block). Ford had heater core failures again due to coolant eating up aluminum heater core. Far a while there I think all manufactures had a problem with coolant breakdown and this was at the time of less maintenance as a selling feature. On my Saturn I add premix when low and is time for first change at 106k and was due at 100k. If you have to add makeup on coolant and add water it will shorten life span of coolant down greatly. To many variables but long life coolant is the norm now.

 

[HangFire]

Originally Posted By: tiger862
If you have to add makeup on coolant and add water it will shorten life span of coolant down greatly.


Why is that? Is it the symptoms causing the low coolant level that decreases its life, or the adding of fresh water/antifreeze? I would think the latter would refresh the existing mix and be a net positive.

 

[Errtt]

I find it strange on my Hyundai manual to check the antifreeze protection and coolant level at least once a year. Once a year!
As far as level, I'll eyeball it every time I pop the hood which its been weekly to check oil & refill the windshield washer fluid (I use a lot of washer fluid).
When adding coolant, to use deionized or soft water & ethylene-glycol-based to prevent corrosion/freezing - for aluminum.

And if I'm looking at it right (the manual), 1st coolant change is 120k or 120 months After every 30k or 24 months. What!

 

[KitaCam]

Toyo's (and other OEM's) description of fluids as being "LONG LIFE" and "SUPER LONG LIFE" is as Tiger said, TOO LONG....it gives people a false sense of infinite life, of "maintenance free" life...

see Toyo's description here:
http://www.toyota.com/owners/web/pages/parts-service/parts?categoryId=32052&partNo=part9&srchid=SEM_google|AfterSales_Part_Types|_%2Btoyota_%2Bcoolant


THE FOLLOWING SHOULD BE CONFIRMED FOR OP's SPECIFIC ENGINE>>>>>>

Toyo has two types of coolant, Pink and Red...

Pink is PRE-MIXED, so for it (and similar products such as ZEREX JAPANESE ENGINE COOLANT at NAPA AP), adding water dilutes the chemical additive, AND LUBRICANT that helps condition seals in the water pump...
RED is full-strength I believe and a 50/50 dilution (100% coolant is actually worse than 50/50) best activates additives.

more here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1747873

 

[Durango]

George,

I think you did well going that far with your Rav 4 engine. I took my 89' Camary until practically 200K when mine gave up!
Towards the end did it consume allot of oil wether it was conventional or synthetic. Besides that Toyotas have been know to have weak head gaskets anyway.

Durango