Just purchased a 2008 Sienna. Wondering when other Toyota owners have done the first oil change. I've haven't read anywhere that Toyota uses a special break-in oil like Honda. I'm thinking of changing between 1,500 to 2,000, then again at 5,000 and the doing 5,000 mile intervals with Amsoil XL 5w30.
Toyota break-in
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I did my change @ 1200 miles (Driving style was bell curve distribution); changed to M1, 5K intervals to 60K, then Amsoil/Redline from then on.
No burning, 150K, 7-10K OCI.
edit:my car is 2003 !e-cho!
No burning, 150K, 7-10K OCI.
edit:my car is 2003 !e-cho!
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Your plan looks good. I always like that early change and would keep and biopsy that filter as a reference point. Not sure about break-in oil, but, I do know that Toyota has, in the past, used oil FILTERS that are available only in Japan on new vehicles. The purported rumor was to identify people with 30,000 + miles and NO oilchange! Enjoy your new vehicle and HAPPY MOTORING!
JHZR2
Staff member
our previa was driven very lightly, no going over 55 mph for the first 1000 miles. First oil change was done at 7500.
WHen we changed to syn oil at 160k, no leaks. Now at ~212k miles, no use, leaks, etc., and flawless UOAs.
Id say your plan looks great.
JMH
WHen we changed to syn oil at 160k, no leaks. Now at ~212k miles, no use, leaks, etc., and flawless UOAs.
Id say your plan looks great.
JMH
With the high tech engine manufacturing today used by the major auto companies, the bulk of the engine wear (what little there is) is done before the car gets loaded onto the delivery truck. Thats why a Corvette comes from the factory with Mobil 1 as do many other vehicles.
I'd say your plan looks fine however.
I'd say your plan looks fine however.
Dropped factory fill in our 08 Scion at 1k and went with Pennzoil Yellow bottle. At 5k it will get PP.
Dropped the factory fill in our 03 Matrix at 1k and went with a dino until 5k, then a blend until 10k. At 10k, full syn went in. Currently using GC but am going to switch to PP when my stash is gone. Currently have 69k on the car.
Dropped the factory fill in our 03 Matrix at 1k and went with a dino until 5k, then a blend until 10k. At 10k, full syn went in. Currently using GC but am going to switch to PP when my stash is gone. Currently have 69k on the car.
You don't need the Amsoil for 5,000 mile oil changes.
I have to do 5,000 for warranty. Plus, XL is only 4.30/qt.
Do the change at 5k. It's a waste of oil to do it sooner.
Again, there's no need to use Amsoil. The local Kragen chain around here sells FormulaShell, Chevron, or Quaker State branded conventional oils for less than $0.79/qt when you buy it by the case.
Again, there's no need to use Amsoil. The local Kragen chain around here sells FormulaShell, Chevron, or Quaker State branded conventional oils for less than $0.79/qt when you buy it by the case.
I have an 02 Tundra. First OCI was at 1K, then again 2,880, then I put in RP 5w30.
in my 07 tundra, i went the full 5K. FIrst time ever, I always used to do it at 1K. Mainly due to not being able to get an oil filter unitl 4K miles and I said why not do the full 5K.
I just got an 08 4runner, will be doing it at 5K as well.
DOne doing the 1K stuff. The only time I will drop break in oil is on my race bikes after a 1-2 hr break in.
I just got an 08 4runner, will be doing it at 5K as well.
DOne doing the 1K stuff. The only time I will drop break in oil is on my race bikes after a 1-2 hr break in.
Originally Posted By: njcruiser
in my 07 tundra, i went the full 5K. FIrst time ever, I always used to do it at 1K. Mainly due to not being able to get an oil filter unitl 4K miles and I said why not do the full 5K.
I just got an 08 4runner, will be doing it at 5K as well.
DOne doing the 1K stuff. The only time I will drop break in oil is on my race bikes after a 1-2 hr break in.
I agree with you. I think it is beneficial to keep the factory fill in up to 3,000 or longer. There may well be bnenficial additives in that factory fill so why dump it and turn your back on the benefits? And running it longer then 1,000 will prove no harm, so why not leave it in there?
ALso, the metal shavings/particles which are a product of the break in procedure will get caught in the filter so no worries.
ALso, to pamper/baby a new engine is to potentially cause the rings to glaze the cylinder walls, or not seat well...better to drive the car so that one oscillates between normal and hard, and never keep the RPM's constant for very long.
in my 07 tundra, i went the full 5K. FIrst time ever, I always used to do it at 1K. Mainly due to not being able to get an oil filter unitl 4K miles and I said why not do the full 5K.
I just got an 08 4runner, will be doing it at 5K as well.
DOne doing the 1K stuff. The only time I will drop break in oil is on my race bikes after a 1-2 hr break in.
I agree with you. I think it is beneficial to keep the factory fill in up to 3,000 or longer. There may well be bnenficial additives in that factory fill so why dump it and turn your back on the benefits? And running it longer then 1,000 will prove no harm, so why not leave it in there?
ALso, the metal shavings/particles which are a product of the break in procedure will get caught in the filter so no worries.
ALso, to pamper/baby a new engine is to potentially cause the rings to glaze the cylinder walls, or not seat well...better to drive the car so that one oscillates between normal and hard, and never keep the RPM's constant for very long.
Originally Posted By: lovcom
Originally Posted By: njcruiser
in my 07 tundra, i went the full 5K. FIrst time ever, I always used to do it at 1K. Mainly due to not being able to get an oil filter unitl 4K miles and I said why not do the full 5K.
I just got an 08 4runner, will be doing it at 5K as well.
DOne doing the 1K stuff. The only time I will drop break in oil is on my race bikes after a 1-2 hr break in.
I agree with you. I think it is beneficial to keep the factory fill in up to 3,000 or longer. There may well be bnenficial additives in that factory fill so why dump it and turn your back on the benefits? And running it longer then 1,000 will prove no harm, so why not leave it in there?
ALso, the metal shavings/particles which are a product of the break in procedure will get caught in the filter so no worries.
ALso, to pamper/baby a new engine is to potentially cause the rings to glaze the cylinder walls, or not seat well...better to drive the car so that one oscillates between normal and hard, and never keep the RPM's constant for very long.
agree. i only buy trucks with less than 5 miles. Test drive put another 5. Buy truck, warmup drive train for 15 miles. Do some hard runs, not full throttle, but close. Try to use engine decompression to slow down by downshifting.
I sometimes put it 2nd, go hard, and let off. Do it three times, and then drive easy a bit. Gets the rings seated both directions if they were not already.
I will not drive it hard ever, when cold. That was already done before I got it.
Originally Posted By: njcruiser
in my 07 tundra, i went the full 5K. FIrst time ever, I always used to do it at 1K. Mainly due to not being able to get an oil filter unitl 4K miles and I said why not do the full 5K.
I just got an 08 4runner, will be doing it at 5K as well.
DOne doing the 1K stuff. The only time I will drop break in oil is on my race bikes after a 1-2 hr break in.
I agree with you. I think it is beneficial to keep the factory fill in up to 3,000 or longer. There may well be bnenficial additives in that factory fill so why dump it and turn your back on the benefits? And running it longer then 1,000 will prove no harm, so why not leave it in there?
ALso, the metal shavings/particles which are a product of the break in procedure will get caught in the filter so no worries.
ALso, to pamper/baby a new engine is to potentially cause the rings to glaze the cylinder walls, or not seat well...better to drive the car so that one oscillates between normal and hard, and never keep the RPM's constant for very long.
agree. i only buy trucks with less than 5 miles. Test drive put another 5. Buy truck, warmup drive train for 15 miles. Do some hard runs, not full throttle, but close. Try to use engine decompression to slow down by downshifting.
I sometimes put it 2nd, go hard, and let off. Do it three times, and then drive easy a bit. Gets the rings seated both directions if they were not already.
I will not drive it hard ever, when cold. That was already done before I got it.
Hi from Greece, we very recently got the Toyota Aygo with the daihatsu engine (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1KR-FE). It has about 300 km now and unfortunately I had to add about 1 liter of oil the day I received it (the oil level was too low). I added dyno oil therefore I possibly have spoiled the semi synth that it had as a factory fill.
Due to this I am going to do 2-3 changes with Dyno 5w30 oil (GroupI) changing at about 2-4km and also trying to change the oil filter. Then I will switch to fully synth.
I plan to drive it somehow aggressively, as suggested above.
What do you think of my plan? Any comments, suggestions?
Also, I have a second question: I think that 0w20 is a good choice because the car is usually traveling very small distances (it goes for about 5-10 minutes, city driving, and then it stops for about 1-2 hours and so on).
However the manual suggests 5w30. It does not even refer to 5w20 or 0w20!
If I use the Amsoil ASM instead, is there any possibility of doing any damage?
Thanks in advance
Due to this I am going to do 2-3 changes with Dyno 5w30 oil (GroupI) changing at about 2-4km and also trying to change the oil filter. Then I will switch to fully synth.
I plan to drive it somehow aggressively, as suggested above.
What do you think of my plan? Any comments, suggestions?
Also, I have a second question: I think that 0w20 is a good choice because the car is usually traveling very small distances (it goes for about 5-10 minutes, city driving, and then it stops for about 1-2 hours and so on).
However the manual suggests 5w30. It does not even refer to 5w20 or 0w20!
If I use the Amsoil ASM instead, is there any possibility of doing any damage?
Thanks in advance
Kestas
Staff member
With your driving schedule, I wonder if it is prudent to use synthetic. For such short trips I would want to change the oil frequently, which would make the expense of synthetic somewhat wasteful.
Originally Posted By: Donald
With the high tech engine manufacturing today used by the major auto companies, the bulk of the engine wear (what little there is) is done before the car gets loaded onto the delivery truck. Thats why a Corvette comes from the factory with Mobil 1 as do many other vehicles.
I'd say your plan looks fine however.
No the engines continue to break in for many thousand miles look at the uoas of new engines and gas mileage increases. the statement is incorrect.
With the high tech engine manufacturing today used by the major auto companies, the bulk of the engine wear (what little there is) is done before the car gets loaded onto the delivery truck. Thats why a Corvette comes from the factory with Mobil 1 as do many other vehicles.
I'd say your plan looks fine however.
No the engines continue to break in for many thousand miles look at the uoas of new engines and gas mileage increases. the statement is incorrect.
Originally Posted By: mesastoura
Hi from Greece, we very recently got the Toyota Aygo with the daihatsu engine (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1KR-FE). It has about 300 km now and unfortunately I had to add about 1 liter of oil the day I received it (the oil level was too low). I added dyno oil therefore I possibly have spoiled the semi synth that it had as a factory fill.
Due to this I am going to do 2-3 changes with Dyno 5w30 oil (GroupI) changing at about 2-4km and also trying to change the oil filter. Then I will switch to fully synth.
I plan to drive it somehow aggressively, as suggested above.
What do you think of my plan? Any comments, suggestions?
Also, I have a second question: I think that 0w20 is a good choice because the car is usually traveling very small distances (it goes for about 5-10 minutes, city driving, and then it stops for about 1-2 hours and so on).
However the manual suggests 5w30. It does not even refer to 5w20 or 0w20!
If I use the Amsoil ASM instead, is there any possibility of doing any damage?
Thanks in advance
Synthetic oil is best when long oil change intervals are done, dino is best so you will be willing to change it at the shorter intervals that will be best with your driving conditions. How cold does it get in Greece to need a 5w20?
Hi from Greece, we very recently got the Toyota Aygo with the daihatsu engine (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1KR-FE). It has about 300 km now and unfortunately I had to add about 1 liter of oil the day I received it (the oil level was too low). I added dyno oil therefore I possibly have spoiled the semi synth that it had as a factory fill.
Due to this I am going to do 2-3 changes with Dyno 5w30 oil (GroupI) changing at about 2-4km and also trying to change the oil filter. Then I will switch to fully synth.
I plan to drive it somehow aggressively, as suggested above.
What do you think of my plan? Any comments, suggestions?
Also, I have a second question: I think that 0w20 is a good choice because the car is usually traveling very small distances (it goes for about 5-10 minutes, city driving, and then it stops for about 1-2 hours and so on).
However the manual suggests 5w30. It does not even refer to 5w20 or 0w20!
If I use the Amsoil ASM instead, is there any possibility of doing any damage?
Thanks in advance
Synthetic oil is best when long oil change intervals are done, dino is best so you will be willing to change it at the shorter intervals that will be best with your driving conditions. How cold does it get in Greece to need a 5w20?
Thanks for you reply. It is not the cold that worries me but the short running durations.
I cannot find dino here in Greece with a viscosity 5w20, and that's why I am thinking to use XLM (GroupIII) or ASM (GroupIV), after the break in period.
I cannot find dino here in Greece with a viscosity 5w20, and that's why I am thinking to use XLM (GroupIII) or ASM (GroupIV), after the break in period.
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