Toyota brake lines- coated?

[researcher]

I'm working on my 2006 Scion tC (toyota)

I was looking at possibly cutting off the ferule nut on the rear brake line because the hard line right at the end of the ferule nut is rusted The rest of the line looks good. I was thinking of cutting off a length of line and splicing and flaring in a new line via a union. But today I was told by a mechanic that you can't do that on a Toyota line because it's coated. That making a flare is impossible and the entire line has to be replaced with NiCop. Now I know that the line is coated in that black rubber-like plastic and you can use a heat gun to get that pliable and cut it off, the lines just look like they're painted a sort of grey.

What coating could they be talking about? I know I should have asked for clarification but I didn't. Does anyone know if Toyota factory lines cannot be flared again and a new line spliced in?

 

[50yr Street Mech]

The brake line is the same O.D. & I.D. from start to finish. Toyota just put a coating over it to prevent them from rusting out. I used a propane torch and just burnt that stuff away to get to good brake line. Great thinking on Toyota IMO. I painted repair with POR 15 to prevent future corrosion. Things you gotta do living in the Salt Belt ...Never ends...

 

[The_Jeff]

Well that mechanic can't but you can.

He might be worried about the untreated area at the junction rusting out in a couple few years and the liability attached.

 

[Capt W]

That mechanic is selling a load of BS. Remove some of the coating (torch or razor blade) and flare away. Double-flare, actually. I prefer Ni-Cop, but you can buy the coated replacement line if you so desire.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

Since you're in the Salt Belt also, I would check all the other lines for corrosion. That coating stops about an inch or so from a connection. I made one repair, then cleaned up the remaining connections. Painted POR 15 from Toyota's coating to the connection, so there wasn't a gap of un-coated brake line., ferule nut and all. If you need to take it apart down the line, just hit it with a propane torch and it will burn off. Usually, in the Salt Belt, if one line is rusted, the rest are rusted also. Tedious work unfortunately

 

[researcher]

The brake line is the same O.D. & I.D. from start to finish. Toyota just put a coating over it to prevent them from rusting out. I used a propane torch and just burnt that stuff away to get to good brake line. Great thinking on Toyota IMO. I painted repair with POR 15 to prevent future corrosion. Things you gotta do living in the Salt Belt ...Never ends...

So that black rubber-like plastic is the coating they're talking about? I remember seeing a video from a Honda Odyssey where the guy just used a heat gun to remove it. And yes I was definitely going to coat them with anti-rust, thanks for the reminder!

Well that mechanic can't but you can.

He might be worried about the untreated area at the junction rusting out in a couple few years and the liability attached.

Ok cool, then looks like I get to practice doing flares on some spare NiCop tubing. I've not done a double flare but how hard could it be?! And I wondered why everyone is splicing here of rusted brake lines and then this guy wanted to run more?

That mechanic is selling a load of BS. Remove some of the coating (torch or razor blade) and flare away. Double-flare, actually. I prefer Ni-Cop, but you can buy the coated replacement line if you so desire.

Thanks, that's why I asked here, I figured it was a little odd.. And I was going to get some NiCop, but thanks for the suggestion. Then going to put that spiral stainless steel stuff someone else here (have to give them credit, and look up who that was here on a post) had repaired their Mercedes and it was a spiral of protection around the line

Since you're in the Salt Belt also, I would check all the other lines for corrosion. That coating stops about an inch or so from a connection. I made one repair, then cleaned up the remaining connections. Painted POR 15 from Toyota's coating to the connection, so there wasn't a gap of un-coated brake line., ferule nut and all. If you need to take it apart down the line, just hit it with a propane torch and it will burn off. Usually, in the Salt Belt, if one line is rusted, the rest are rusted also. Tedious work unfortunately

Thanks very much for the guidance.. I will be examining the entire line to make sure, so far I've looked at about 90% of it, and it doesn't look bad at all. I had torched the ferrule back in 18 to get the flex line off, I think I burned off something and I've caused the rust at the line's end, myself..

So to MAKE sure.. are you talking the black rubber/plastic coating? Or are you talking that painted on coating?..

Thanks everyone, you've put my mind at ease now.. I didn't want to replace the whole line, just the ends where it was rusting.. I will look again to make sure the rest of the line is good!

 

[50yr Street Mech]

I'm not sure which color coating you have, but it ends around an inch from any connection, more or less. Mine was black rubber, and my other Toyota was grey in color. Just torch it off with a propane torch. It burns right off. Then do you're work. I just used a brass or copper brake line coupling rather than trying to flare it. Just bought a short piece of flared brake tubing at the auto parts store and a coupling. Bleed out, POR 15 over the new stuff and that was that.

 

[researcher]

I'm not sure which color coating you have, but it ends around an inch from any connection, more or less. Mine was black rubber, and my other Toyota was grey in color. Just torch it off with a propane torch. It burns right off. Then do you're work. I just used a brass or copper brake line coupling rather than trying to flare it. Just bought a short piece of flared brake tubing at the auto parts store and a coupling. Bleed out, POR 15 over the new stuff and that was that.

ya that's definitely this black rubberized coating that ends about an inch or so then bare line, then the ferrule nut.. Ok cool, just wanted to make sure. Yup I do have the rust encapsulator type epoxy paint. And I'll put that on anything I remove from the factory lines. Sounds very simple, thanks for the info!

 

[50yr Street Mech]

Yeah, since you're in the Salt Belt, like me, I would check the rest of the lines, clean them, and coat/paint them also. Had to do that to my 03', 06' Toyota's & 13' Honda. Salt eats everything. I would do it for peace of mind, and save yourself from another repair down the line. That's the trick in the Salt Belt,,,gotta catch stuff and seal it when it shows signs of corrosion. Took me almost 5 months to restore the undercarriage of my 03' Toyota. I hate the Salt Belt. It will munch on a car and destroy it in a matter of 5 years. Best of luck