Toyota 2GR-FE oil grades in Australia 5W-30 to 20W-50

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Jun 19, 2024
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So I was checking coolant capacity and I came across the Factory owners manual fluid specs here:
https://www.toyota-club.net/files/techdata/ttx/aurion_40.htm

Just thought I would post for interest as I've seen that NA market gets thinner oils specified than the rest of the world. This is a good example.

20W50 as Factory specified did surprise me. Next time I change oil I will use this 😈

Screenshot_20250719_230134_DuckDuckGo.webp
 
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Like this is news?
It's been known for years that the fuel efficiency targets in North America forced the move to thinner lubes.
Pretty much every manufacturer specs lubes relative to the market sold.

As a side note, Toyota does not "spec" the viscosity; they recommend. The "spec" is the API and GF data.

Further, the 2GR-FE is a very solid design that does not care what vis is used. The wear rates don't vary much at all, regardless of what vis you put in there. If you use 20w-50, you're not going to gain anything in terms of wear control. 5w-30 is a great "middle road" vis for the 2GR engines in normal use.
 
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Like this is news?
It's been known for years that the fuel efficiency targets in North America forced the move to thinner lubes.
Pretty much every manufacturer specs lubes relative to the market sold.

As a side note, Toyota does not "spec" the viscosity; they recommend. The "spec" is the API and GF data.
Yes I know that Mr Newton, keep your shirt on.
Regarding something about specifications:
The Owners Manual is an overarching or 'Master' Specification. The API and SAE are referenced specifications. This is how it's done, specifications within specifications. Quite a novel concept I'm sure. A dead give away is the ample use of the word 'specification' in the owners manual.
Screenshot_20250720_005832_DuckDuckGo.webp
 
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I run 0-30 in mine and she loves it!
AMSOIL 0-30 EU in our 2014 ES350.

This switch was made around 130-140k mi, prior it was always the US favorite... 0-20 TGMO at the dealer.
I have yet to do a UOA, I guess because I don't really have any concerns with this engine, and many exist.


EDIT;
I guess I should update my sig.
Let me clarify, I ran 20wt in Signature serries for 2 OCIs before I went to the 0-30EU, roughly the same with our CX-5. Although the CX had been on Signature series for a while.
At the time I convinced myself there was a good reason, but I believe it was more antidotal than anything.
I wanted to see how the vehicle would respond to an AMSOIL product, was there cleaning to be done, would it expose any leaks, any changes in smoothness and all of the other seat of the pants antidotal BS we convince ourselves of.... I wanted to get a 0-30 in use, but wanted to transition my way there. Everything went perfectly and I should maybe go update my Sig now...
 
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Further, the 2GR-FE is a very solid design that does not care what vis is used. The wear rates don't vary much at all, regardless of what vis you put in there. If you use 20w-50, you're not going to gain anything in terms of wear control. 5w-30 is a great "middle road" vis for the 2GR engines in normal use.

In the case of the 2GR-FE specifically isn't this an argument to just run the 0w-20 Toyota recommends? The motor itself has already proven itself to run forever. So why not try for the best fuel economy? The 2GR isn't exactly fuel efficient.

IMO the biggest reason to run thicker viscosity on this motor is to (potentially) help prevent a front timing cover seep from developing and/or worsening.
 
Like this is news?
It's been known for years that the fuel efficiency targets in North America forced the move to thinner lubes.
Pretty much every manufacturer specs lubes relative to the market sold.

As a side note, Toyota does not "spec" the viscosity; they recommend. The "spec" is the API and GF data.

Further, the 2GR-FE is a very solid design that does not care what vis is used. The wear rates don't vary much at all, regardless of what vis you put in there. If you use 20w-50, you're not going to gain anything in terms of wear control. 5w-30 is a great "middle road" vis for the 2GR engines in normal use.
It's not news if you've been here a while, but the first time someone new here hears that you can actually use an oil grade different than what is specified (or "recommended" so I don't get corrected) in the manual, it is usually met with trepidation. So it's reassuring to many seeing it in black and white in a Toyota manual from another country that it's safe. Imagine you're a lurker here reading that you can go thicker than 0W-20 safely. Seeing this elevates it to a higher level of comfort, above some internet guy saying "trust me bro."

Thank you, OP. Appreciate the contribution.
 
In the case of the 2GR-FE specifically isn't this an argument to just run the 0w-20 Toyota recommends? The motor itself has already proven itself to run forever. So why not try for the best fuel economy? The 2GR isn't exactly fuel efficient.

IMO the biggest reason to run thicker viscosity on this motor is to (potentially) help prevent a front timing cover seep from developing and/or worsening.
Good point on the timing cover leak.



Good video on this issue.

If you have a 2GR, you might have to drop your engine once, but hopefully only once.
 
Good point on the timing cover leak.



Good video on this issue.

If you have a 2GR, you might have to drop your engine once, but hopefully only once.

There is no evidence that thicker lubes stop the oil leak in the timing cover of the 2GR-FE.
The "seal" is the RTV between the block, head and timing cover. Once that is compromised, it's gonna leak, no matter what's in the crankcase.
 
No evidence but there are anecdotal reports of people switching to 5w30 because of this issue with notion of improvement or no worsening. That said it seems the overwhelming majority of these timing cover leaks are minor seeps and don't deserve any attention beyond cleaning it up every couple of years - certainly not worth pulling the engine over for all but the most serious OCD owner.
 
There is no evidence that thicker lubes stop the oil leak in the timing cover of the 2GR-FE.
The "seal" is the RTV between the block, head and timing cover. Once that is compromised, it's gonna leak, no matter what's in the crankcase.
Good to know.

See, look at what a helpful discussion has come out of a post with "no news."
 
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