Torque-To-Yield Ball Joints and Tie Rod Ends

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Torque-to-yield/good n tight equal I can't move wrench anymore!!
LOLOLO!!! Pretty soon we'll have to take our cars to George Jetson Garage at Spacely's Sprockets LLC.
 
It makes me shudder to think how many cars driving around me each day (in the future) will have improperly installed suspension parts.

After some more thought, I wonder how many MKV Jettas and Golfs are running around with improperly installed rear brakes. The factory uses torque-to-yield bolts on the rear caliper bracket (that must be replaced each time) which have a spec of 66 ft-lbs + 90 deg. Gee, I wonder how many of those are actually done correctly.
 
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Originally Posted By: The Critic
After some more thought, I wonder how many MKV Jettas and Golfs are running around with improperly installed rear brakes. The factory uses torque-to-yield bolts on the rear caliper bracket (that must be replaced each time) which have a spec of 66 ft-lbs + 90 deg. Gee, I wonder how many of those are actually done correctly.

Any weirdness like that on a part that needs to be tinkered with regularly just strikes me as irresponsible on the part of the manufacturer.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
...factory uses torque-to-yield bolts on the rear caliper bracket (that must be replaced each time) which have a spec of 66 ft-lbs + 90 deg...


Just thinking about that, and considering the average thread size of rear caliper bracket bolts, that seems like a rather large amount of force, for lack of a better word. Perhaps I'm not taking into consideration the totality the thread pitch and fastener size, the material of the threaded hole, or the material of the bolt itself or even the compressibility of the bracket itself, but if I were to torque the rear caliper bracket bolts on my Mazda6 to 66 lb-ft plus an additional 90-degrees, something should give and break. I'll admit I haven't used a torque wrench on caliper bracket bolts in quite some time (mainly due to limited accessibility to get a good angle with even a regular wrench) but when I have, 66 lb-ft seems pretty darned tight enough, and I wonder how much additional torque would measure when doing the additional 90, although I'm assuming its different when considering a TTY situation. On the other hand, it's late for me and I likely over-thought this and made it way more complicated than it actually is.
 
What gets me on my car is the relatively coarse thread on caliper bracket bolts. However, they hold just fine. VW is a worldwise company; what are they going to do about 3rd world mechanics? And pep boys?
laugh.gif
 
They clearly arent thinking about the customer,they are thinking of themselves.They want to sell you every part from their parts counter,and perform all your service from their dealer bays....they dont want anyone else working on "their" cars.And one day,they are going to get there...."Right to Repair" act or not.
 
I'd disagree with one part of the article, based solely on my experience with an Audi. It states that you can identify a TTY ball joint stud by the hex head insert in the ball joint end, which all 4 of the lower control arms have. But they are not TTY according to the FSM, but it is recommended that the nuts be replaced every time they are loosened. They also specify only a torque setting, but no angle tightening. Does that actually make the nut a TTY type situation, even thought no angle torque is specified?

Now, the axle bolt that secures the hub is a different story. That's 133 lb/ft + 180°, which takes two men and a boy to get tightened.
 
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