If anti sieze is used on wheel lugs (not saying that it shoud be), how is the torque setting determined? More or less than the spec? How much?
Torque setting and anti sieze
- Thread starter ChiTDI
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I believe the rule of thumb is you drop the torque by 1/3rd.
The torque setting is based on dry threads. Coefficient of friction of .2. Find out the Coeficient of friction of the anti seize, compare it to .2 and adjust the torque by that amount.
Example. Dry stud B.8 100 ft/lbs. .2 friction
Anti Seize Coefficient of friction at .1
.1 divided by 2= 1/2 X 100 ft/lbs. = 50 ft/lbs. for same bolt stretch.
Scource. EPRI
Example. Dry stud B.8 100 ft/lbs. .2 friction
Anti Seize Coefficient of friction at .1
.1 divided by 2= 1/2 X 100 ft/lbs. = 50 ft/lbs. for same bolt stretch.
Scource. EPRI
I went through the same scenario last spring at tire rotation time, as the lugs on the minivan were sereously seizing..
I read that a 20% reduction in torque max, is recommended.
Cant remember the name of the fastener company and publishing date, but I can dig it up readely if required.
Jean
I read that a 20% reduction in torque max, is recommended.
Cant remember the name of the fastener company and publishing date, but I can dig it up readely if required.
Jean
I was doing rotation for my chevy venture and last time the lug was tightened by my friend by hand and guess what when I try to open next time.\
Lug was broken when I try to open. It was not covered my my dealer...
Go to sears they will do for $12 or go to "just tires" they will do free. Some tire shop do free tire rotation. atleast in my area one shop does...........
Lug was broken when I try to open. It was not covered my my dealer...
Go to sears they will do for $12 or go to "just tires" they will do free. Some tire shop do free tire rotation. atleast in my area one shop does...........
OUTSTANDING.
Thanks
Thanks
U-h-h-h-h.... so what conclusion are you going with ?
The long math example was just that , no ? An example ? Is it intended that the 0.1 and 0.2 are real life values ? Are you going with those ?
Who is EPRI ? Electric Power Research ? They could be giving torque values -- for power panel maintenance, for instance. I'd want to go to the source and read for myself before I used a torque value only half what is specified.
2K2AcuraTL hit it about as close as anyone can get. It's about a 20% to 30% reduction by the numbers.
The way I look at it is that a lot of people use full torque with anti-sieze and get awsy with it, so I just cut back about 20%, or a bit less sometimes.
At 80% I can feel the bolt streching. In most cases, uniformity is more important than absolute torque as long as you end up between work loose and twist off.
The conclusion I drew is that the torque is reduced and that the amount of reduction can be determined. The anti sieze may list some data or they should provide it upon request.
If unavailable, there are a couple of "rules of thumb" that were suggested.
Alternative - torque them dry.
I still appreciate the responses from all who contributed. Again ... Thanks
If unavailable, there are a couple of "rules of thumb" that were suggested.
Alternative - torque them dry.
I still appreciate the responses from all who contributed. Again ... Thanks
You got it, Unless of course you use stainless on stainless......
Llew
Llew
Also consider the mating surface of the lugnut to the wheel - a contact point for friction .
Torqueing evenly, and working your way up to the the torque is important to having even compression of the wheel/hub/brake assembly [you don't want to warp the rotors after a few heat cycles from uneven pressure]. A little lube on the threads and contact surface of the nuts is going to prevent a lot more problems than leaving them dry.
Lube them and just tighten them a little less.
Torqueing evenly, and working your way up to the the torque is important to having even compression of the wheel/hub/brake assembly [you don't want to warp the rotors after a few heat cycles from uneven pressure]. A little lube on the threads and contact surface of the nuts is going to prevent a lot more problems than leaving them dry.
Lube them and just tighten them a little less.
What kind of antiseize are we talking about? Any certain kind? Copper, teflon, graphite? Is it mostly the same? And regarding lug nuts and puting antiseize on wheel studs, I always was told that doing that was a no-no. Is that just because of the characteristics of the torque changing or was the lug nut more likely to loosen because of the antiseize? But anyway, so from now on I can kinda put a number to friction loss if antiseize is used? As stated in the previous replies. Thanks. Brian
I would agree with this, Lug nuts are somethings that shouln't be lubed. IMO, wheels should be unbolted enough to prevent seizure from happening. Tire rotations, brake inspections, etc lend themselves to keeping wheel studs fairly clean.
As far as torque specs for lubed threads, the proper way to calculate is to determine the original clamp load, then use the modified frictional co-efficient for the lube & recalc the required applied torque to achieve the same clamp load. It's all about the stretch...
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