1 quart of consumption in 3,500 miles is GOOD usage.
Top off with Mobil 1 0w-40 to reduce oil usage?
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It's about the point that the average Aussie would be thinking of getting engine work done, as we've historically never had that sort of consumption...
but I agree, it's not bad.
I've got a half baked opinion that a straight 30 is probably a pretty good top-off, as it's added mid to late change, and won't have any mis-match VII (as it's got none).
but I agree, it's not bad.
I've got a half baked opinion that a straight 30 is probably a pretty good top-off, as it's added mid to late change, and won't have any mis-match VII (as it's got none).
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: y_p_w
Doesn't a lot of oil consumption occur on cold starts? At least that's the impression I get from seeing cars starting with blue smoke coming out of the tailpipe.
That's just oil that settled as the engine cooled from last run, would have burned anyway if the engine was operated a few more minutes...
Oil that settled past the leaky valve seals. Operating it a few more minutes won't help, nor will 0w-40.
Originally Posted By: y_p_w
Doesn't a lot of oil consumption occur on cold starts? At least that's the impression I get from seeing cars starting with blue smoke coming out of the tailpipe.
That's just oil that settled as the engine cooled from last run, would have burned anyway if the engine was operated a few more minutes...
Oil that settled past the leaky valve seals. Operating it a few more minutes won't help, nor will 0w-40.
On the wifes 2005 Malibu it uses no oil as i change it once a year with 4k miles driven in the year. its a v6 with 105k on the clock.
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My LG8 3.1L in my Buick is about 5k into my PP and it hasn't consumed any yet. From others experiences though, 1 quart in 3,500 miles would be a blessing.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
It's about the point that the average Aussie would be thinking of getting engine work done, as we've historically never had that sort of consumption...
That's because 20w-50 won't burn except in an incinerator and it won't leak out unless mating surfaces are like a half inch apart.
It's about the point that the average Aussie would be thinking of getting engine work done, as we've historically never had that sort of consumption...
That's because 20w-50 won't burn except in an incinerator and it won't leak out unless mating surfaces are like a half inch apart.
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: Shannow
It's about the point that the average Aussie would be thinking of getting engine work done, as we've historically never had that sort of consumption...
That's because 20w-50 won't burn except in an incinerator and it won't leak out unless mating surfaces are like a half inch apart.
ROFL!!!
Originally Posted By: Shannow
It's about the point that the average Aussie would be thinking of getting engine work done, as we've historically never had that sort of consumption...
That's because 20w-50 won't burn except in an incinerator and it won't leak out unless mating surfaces are like a half inch apart.
ROFL!!!
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: Shannow
It's about the point that the average Aussie would be thinking of getting engine work done, as we've historically never had that sort of consumption...
That's because 20w-50 won't burn except in an incinerator and it won't leak out unless mating surfaces are like a half inch apart.
That's funny.
I saw a pic of some 20w-70 from down under. That's enough to give some folks a heart attack
Originally Posted By: Shannow
It's about the point that the average Aussie would be thinking of getting engine work done, as we've historically never had that sort of consumption...
That's because 20w-50 won't burn except in an incinerator and it won't leak out unless mating surfaces are like a half inch apart.
That's funny.
I saw a pic of some 20w-70 from down under. That's enough to give some folks a heart attack
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: Shannow
It's about the point that the average Aussie would be thinking of getting engine work done, as we've historically never had that sort of consumption...
That's because 20w-50 won't burn except in an incinerator and it won't leak out unless mating surfaces are like a half inch apart.
That's funny.
I saw a pic of some 20w-70 from down under. That's enough to give some folks a heart attack
You guys have to remember oil flows to the upper regions of a engine better in the southern hemisphere as they are upside down, heck a 0W-20 may not even flow back into the oil pan...
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: Shannow
It's about the point that the average Aussie would be thinking of getting engine work done, as we've historically never had that sort of consumption...
That's because 20w-50 won't burn except in an incinerator and it won't leak out unless mating surfaces are like a half inch apart.
That's funny.
I saw a pic of some 20w-70 from down under. That's enough to give some folks a heart attack
You guys have to remember oil flows to the upper regions of a engine better in the southern hemisphere as they are upside down, heck a 0W-20 may not even flow back into the oil pan...
Both my 89 Accord and my GF's 2003 Highlander seemed to suffer less consumption using 40 weight oils. Both were not piston ring consumption issues. They were valve stem/seal issues. In the Honda I used Rotella T6 5W-40 and in the Highlander I am using M1 0W-40. In both cases the consumption was reduced by at least 50%. I did not notice significant fuel economy loss, but that subject has been beaten to death here with regards to actually measuring MPG's accurately.
Valve stem leaks do not seem to occur due to poor maintenance. They seem to be engineering/material issues. So, you either do a valve job or use different oil. If you are burning oil due to piston ring leakage the 40 weight oil still may help, but I do not have experience with that.
Valve stem leaks do not seem to occur due to poor maintenance. They seem to be engineering/material issues. So, you either do a valve job or use different oil. If you are burning oil due to piston ring leakage the 40 weight oil still may help, but I do not have experience with that.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: 2James1
Anyone ever use Mobil 1 0w-40 for top off of Mobil 1 5w30 in an effort to reduce oil usage? Did it help?
I tried that very oil, once. Just once.
That once was enough to make me understand that 0-weight is NOT the oil for my engine: Consumption went through the roof, about 500 mi/qt.
Except that M1 0w-40 is heavier than M1 5w30 at ALL temperatures above like -35C...........
Originally Posted By: 2James1
Anyone ever use Mobil 1 0w-40 for top off of Mobil 1 5w30 in an effort to reduce oil usage? Did it help?
I tried that very oil, once. Just once.
That once was enough to make me understand that 0-weight is NOT the oil for my engine: Consumption went through the roof, about 500 mi/qt.
Except that M1 0w-40 is heavier than M1 5w30 at ALL temperatures above like -35C...........
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: 2James1
Anyone ever use Mobil 1 0w-40 for top off of Mobil 1 5w30 in an effort to reduce oil usage? Did it help?
I tried that very oil, once. Just once.
That once was enough to make me understand that 0-weight is NOT the oil for my engine: Consumption went through the roof, about 500 mi/qt.
Except that M1 0w-40 is heavier than M1 5w30 at ALL temperatures above like -35C...........
Exactly.
M1 0W-40 is an excellent oil choice for topping up if you want something heavier. Yes it will be heavier at virtually all temp's
but the emphasis will be at hot operating temp's due to it's high VI.
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: 2James1
Anyone ever use Mobil 1 0w-40 for top off of Mobil 1 5w30 in an effort to reduce oil usage? Did it help?
I tried that very oil, once. Just once.
That once was enough to make me understand that 0-weight is NOT the oil for my engine: Consumption went through the roof, about 500 mi/qt.
Except that M1 0w-40 is heavier than M1 5w30 at ALL temperatures above like -35C...........
Exactly.
M1 0W-40 is an excellent oil choice for topping up if you want something heavier. Yes it will be heavier at virtually all temp's
but the emphasis will be at hot operating temp's due to it's high VI.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
M1 0W-40 is an excellent oil choice for topping up if you want something heavier. Yes it will be heavier at virtually all temp's
but the emphasis will be at hot operating temp's due to it's high VI.
How would this compare in effectiveness to switching to Mobil 1 5w30 HM?
M1 0W-40 is an excellent oil choice for topping up if you want something heavier. Yes it will be heavier at virtually all temp's
but the emphasis will be at hot operating temp's due to it's high VI.
How would this compare in effectiveness to switching to Mobil 1 5w30 HM?
M1 0W-40 has a much higher HTHSV (3.85cP) vs M1 HM 5w30 (3.3cP) so it's a considerably heavier oil at hot operating temp's.
So yes I think adding M1 0W-40 would be more effective in reducing oil consumption.
So yes I think adding M1 0W-40 would be more effective in reducing oil consumption.
Ok. Thanks CATERHAM. I did look up the current HT-HS for the oils before posting. Just wasn't sure if having 4.5 quarts of Mobil 1 HM 5w30 at HT-HS of 3.3 would be more effective than starting out with 4.5 quarts of normal Mobil 1 5w30 with an HT-HS of 3.1 and topping off with 0w-40. But after your post I'm now thinking if oil usage doesn't settle by end of next oci will try Mobil 1 0w-40 for top off.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Except that M1 0w-40 is heavier than M1 5w30 at ALL temperatures above like -35C...........
Then I am at a loss to explain what happened to me.
My situation started with a recommendation by Terry Dyson that I run some Auto-RX through my engine. This I eventually did, according to the instructions on the bottle. After a "rinse" with my usual Castrol GTX, I decided to try Mobil 1 0W-40. By now my engine was using enough oil that I needed to keep a constant eye on the level, and I had become used to the time that passed between needing top-ups.
Well, that 0W-40 disappeared WAY faster than ANYTHING I'd ever used before. Alarmed, I drained it, replaced it with Mobil 1 5w30, and began keeping this chart: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/oil-graph.pdf
Resumption of 5w30 resulted in consumption going back to what I was used to.
Any explanations?
Except that M1 0w-40 is heavier than M1 5w30 at ALL temperatures above like -35C...........
Then I am at a loss to explain what happened to me.
My situation started with a recommendation by Terry Dyson that I run some Auto-RX through my engine. This I eventually did, according to the instructions on the bottle. After a "rinse" with my usual Castrol GTX, I decided to try Mobil 1 0W-40. By now my engine was using enough oil that I needed to keep a constant eye on the level, and I had become used to the time that passed between needing top-ups.
Well, that 0W-40 disappeared WAY faster than ANYTHING I'd ever used before. Alarmed, I drained it, replaced it with Mobil 1 5w30, and began keeping this chart: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/oil-graph.pdf
Resumption of 5w30 resulted in consumption going back to what I was used to.
Any explanations?
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Except that M1 0w-40 is heavier than M1 5w30 at ALL temperatures above like -35C...........
Then I am at a loss to explain what happened to me.
My situation started with a recommendation by Terry Dyson that I run some Auto-RX through my engine. This I eventually did, according to the instructions on the bottle. After a "rinse" with my usual Castrol GTX, I decided to try Mobil 1 0W-40. By now my engine was using enough oil that I needed to keep a constant eye on the level, and I had become used to the time that passed between needing top-ups.
Well, that 0W-40 disappeared WAY faster than ANYTHING I'd ever used before. Alarmed, I drained it, replaced it with Mobil 1 5w30, and began keeping this chart: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/oil-graph.pdf
Resumption of 5w30 resulted in consumption going back to what I was used to.
Any explanations?
Explanation? Nope
But it is possible that something that was stirred up with the Auto-RX treatment settled down after the oil was changed out and that's what you observed.
You could always try running it again and see what happens
I've run it in my Expedition, three 302 Ford's, some with high mileage (though not as high as yours, which is an impressive feat BTW
) my M5, my sister's 330i, my wife's 328i....etc. In all applications, consumption was never increased. In the 302's, it actually reduced consumption over M1 5w30, which is what I had used before in the first one.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Except that M1 0w-40 is heavier than M1 5w30 at ALL temperatures above like -35C...........
Then I am at a loss to explain what happened to me.
My situation started with a recommendation by Terry Dyson that I run some Auto-RX through my engine. This I eventually did, according to the instructions on the bottle. After a "rinse" with my usual Castrol GTX, I decided to try Mobil 1 0W-40. By now my engine was using enough oil that I needed to keep a constant eye on the level, and I had become used to the time that passed between needing top-ups.
Well, that 0W-40 disappeared WAY faster than ANYTHING I'd ever used before. Alarmed, I drained it, replaced it with Mobil 1 5w30, and began keeping this chart: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/oil-graph.pdf
Resumption of 5w30 resulted in consumption going back to what I was used to.
Any explanations?
Explanation? Nope
But it is possible that something that was stirred up with the Auto-RX treatment settled down after the oil was changed out and that's what you observed.
You could always try running it again and see what happens
I've run it in my Expedition, three 302 Ford's, some with high mileage (though not as high as yours, which is an impressive feat BTW
M1 products are very good, but in engines that consume oil they burn faster than anything else by a LONG a shot in my experience. This includes 0W-40. It'll burn slower than M1 5w30, but still faster than other oils. Switch to Castrol or Pennzoil for dino. Rotella T6 will perform the best for this problem imo.
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