Tools for rounded/ rusty fasteners

[dlundblad]

Say one was working on rounded and rusty fasteners on an exhaust. Aside from heat, what are the good tools to have?

I’m thinking something like a turbo socket (no experience with them) and perhaps wrench with the same spiral style box end if it exists.

 

[Rand]

exhaust? a torch, grinder, sawzall

 

[Snagglefoot]

Certainly heat is relative. You really need Oxy Acetylene. Failing that you can buy a Map Oxy kit for $100 that is pretty good for heating. Propane sucks and Mapp by itself is not much better. Back to tools. Here is a kit on sale at my local hardware store.

 

[bluesmokertdi]

what i have resorted to is going to a used tool store and purchasing a bunch of used impact sockets, hammer them on with a short 5 pound sledge

and then hook up a breaker bar plus a couple feet of pipe, the immense torque applied to the bolt either loosens it or it breaks

the risk is if they break, I once broke an exhaust manifold bolt on a big block Mopar, please don't ask for details

 

[JC1]

Besides those sockets, vice grips and nut splitters work as well. Usually on exhausts I find that I need to replace the nuts and bolts when doing repairs unless I get really lucky.

 

[AutoMechanic]

I have the Craftsman set. It’s still made in the USA I ordered mine from Sears website. It works excellent. After that I found some single ones at the pawn shop so I was able to put together another set just without the case so I have one in my work box and one at home they work great. That’s the ones I’d get.

 

[dlundblad]

Duplicate post

 

[dlundblad]

exhaust? a torch, grinder, sawzall

I’m planning on getting an oxy acetylene setup. It’s too crowded for a grinder or sawzall.

 

[Trav]

Say one was working on rounded and rusty fasteners on an exhaust. Aside from heat, what are the good tools to have?

I’m thinking something like a turbo socket (no experience with them) and perhaps wrench with the same spiral style box end if it exists.

It depends on what you want to remove, if it is the nuts on the exhaust manifold to pipe you want to heat them with a oxy acetylene torch then use an extraction socket, I use the ones from Rocket (3/8 drive, you can use a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter if you need a bigger ratchet) and deep ones from Irwin.
If the rounded nuts/bolts are on a piece that is being replaced I just blow them away with the cutting torch but you can use a sawzall or cutoff wheel on the bad part, do not use it on the good side as you can start cutting into the pipe.

I cut most of the system out with the sawzall or torch first then address any rusted fasteners on the parts that are being kept but being removed for say a gasket change eg the cat.


https://therocketsocket.com/

https://www.amazon.com/Tools-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-5-Piece-3094001/dp/B001W02R0S

 

[dlundblad]

Trav, you’re the man. I always appreciate your posts on how I need to spend my money.

 

[tshephard]

A good inch metric chart, start with slightly smaller sockets to allow for size reduction from rust.

 

[samven]

Rocket Sockets are the best I have found and right now I have 5 different sets by different makers. They all work if you use them before you totally destroy the fastener head. Once the head is truly round only the rocket worked but with all of them you have to find one that is just too small to fit and drive it on with a hammer which can make them difficult to use in really tight spaces. If the part is secure and can not move an air chisel or air saw work well but if the part can move at all a cut off wheel on a grinder or torch is better.

 

[atikovi]

It’s too crowded for a grinder or sawzall.

What about a Dremel with the cutoff wheel?

 

[The_Jeff]

What about a Dremel with the cutoff wheel?

Those have their place.

Heat is great though. I've had luck even with propane. Get a bolt dull-red hot and it'll stretch, so now you're not fighting a preloaded tight fastener. Most exhaust bolts will snap if you look at them wrong, even with a 3/8-drive ratchet and normal 10-inch handle. Though I guess you need a good enough grip on the hex to do that.

 

[Trav]

What about a Dremel with the cutoff wheel?

A 120v small angle grinder with a cutoff wheel is much better, the Dremel under that sort of use will let the smoke out (ask me how I know).
These are 1/16 but there are thinner ones that are ideal for sheet metal.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Y6G6N...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

 

[atikovi]

A 120v small angle grinder with a cutoff wheel is much better, the Dremel under that sort of use will let the smoke out (ask me how I know).
These are 1/16 but there are thinner ones that are ideal for sheet metal.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Y6G6N...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

OP said, It’s too crowded for a grinder, so I assume a 4 1/2" wheel like that won't fit. Dremel has 1 or 1 1/2 inch wheels. For one or two cuts it should be fine.

 

[spasm3]

Those have their place.

Heat is great though. I've had luck even with propane. Get a bolt dull-red hot and it'll stretch, so now you're not fighting a preloaded tight fastener. Most exhaust bolts will snap if you look at them wrong, even with a 3/8-drive ratchet and normal 10-inch handle. Though I guess you need a good enough grip on the hex to do that.

I've done that as well. I want a small smoke wrench set, but i'm propped up a propane torch on a bolt, had a cup of coffee while it heated, the hit it with the air cat. I have a 13mm scar on my arm where a red hot exhaust nut landed after heating and the aircat zipped it right off.

 

[dlundblad]

Nice. I always like it when the metal is hot enough to stick to the flesh.

 

[dlundblad]

It depends on what you want to remove, if it is the nuts on the exhaust manifold to pipe you want to heat them with a oxy acetylene torch then use an extraction socket, I use the ones from Rocket (3/8 drive, you can use a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter if you need a bigger ratchet) and deep ones from Irwin.
If the rounded nuts/bolts are on a piece that is being replaced I just blow them away with the cutting torch but you can use a sawzall or cutoff wheel on the bad part, do not use it on the good side as you can start cutting into the pipe.

I cut most of the system out with the sawzall or torch first then address any rusted fasteners on the parts that are being kept but being removed for say a gasket change eg the cat.


https://therocketsocket.com/

https://www.amazon.com/Tools-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-5-Piece-3094001/dp/B001W02R0S

Do you prefer the 1/4 or the 3/8?

You certainly get more with the 1/4. Also, I can’t see the torque being too bad when the bolt is heated too. I have a decent 1/4 ratchet with a long handle. Should do nicely.

 

[Trav]

3/8 or 1/2, normally I dont use 1/4 for rusted exhaust fasteners, heated or not they can be pretty darn tight.