tool for tricky cut

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Hello everybody, have a problem for which I could use some suggestions. I have a bath vanity that I need to remove the top from (long story). The top is marble and is glued to the cabinet. Photos attached.

I have tried a few things already. Razor knife, a mini hacksaw, and an oscillating saw. The first two hardly made a dent in the adhesive and the oscillating saw (with a fresh blade) wasn't much better. Whatever stuff they used assembling this thing is tough.

The vanity will be going in a corner so the left side and back will be completely hidden, so I'm not worried about hacking those up trying to figure this out. The right side will be exposed, and as you can see in the photo the front has those drawer fronts right up to the counter so getting in there will be tricky too. I think I might need to cut through the other three sides and then see if I can pry it up and get at the adhesive from the inside.

So I'm trying to figure out what tool might work better for doing this. I have a normal sized circular saw but think that's too big and aggressive. I also have a jigsaw. Maybe a cut out tool/Rotozip or Dremel with the routing attachment? I have some Makita 12v tools already, they have a 3 3/8" circular saw for that system.

Any ideas? Thanks,

jeff
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Have you tried a 2"-4" taping knife? Starting at the corner, and tapping it in with a rubber mallet or the heel of your hand. I've gotten many apart doing that.
 
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As demarpaint says use a taping knife with a mallet or small pry bar (you can insert it inside the cabinet too And try to hammer it outwards gently.

I wonder if they used construction adhesive and not caulking to secure it.
 
Definitely seems to be an adhesive rather than caulking.

I have not tried a heat gun - don't have one. The vanity is in my unheated garage so it's definitely cold. Assume I'd need a gun with a pretty low heat option so's not to mess up the paint?

I do have a set of those plastic prybars for car interior bits which might come in handy once I start getting it separated. Also have a small steel pry bar but worry that would be too rough.
 
I have not, good idea. I don't have one that small. Looks like I can get a hammer end one at HD.

jeff
A hammer will work if you don't have a rubber mallet. The key to it is start at the 90* angle and tap it in and work it by tapping some more. You can try prying a bit if needed, but I found a taping knife will cut the caulking nicely. I'd be careful with a heat gun, honestly I never needed to resort to heat.
 
Definitely seems to be an adhesive rather than caulking.

I have not tried a heat gun - don't have one. The vanity is in my unheated garage so it's definitely cold. Assume I'd need a gun with a pretty low heat option so's not to mess up the paint?

I do have a set of those plastic prybars for car interior bits which might come in handy once I start getting it separated. Also have a small steel pry bar but worry that would be too rough.

Bummer that it seems to be an adhesive. What is the material the top is adhered to? If it’s real wood, it may be a different course of action. If pressed wood it might not be worth keeping honestly.

I agree to try the thinnest taping knife you can, perhaps after scoring the interface with a razor blade. Some blade or box cutter should be sufficiently flexible to get up in there tight.
 
How about the oscillating multi tools. I have one and it works great to remove damaged grout between tiles. For a single use project harbor freight is fine. They have different blades available. One should work.
 
You could also get a small pry bar like this.
As demarpaint said trick is to do this on a 45 degree angle. Slow and steady wins the race. You need to get it started. Don't be in a rush, since you may cause more damage than not.

If you use a heat gun you may damage the finish, so I would use the heat gun from the inside of the cabinet. You could use a hairdryer if you don't have a heat gun. Go back and forth over a few inches. Then try to hammer the putty knife or prybar. Then more heat leaving the knife inserted in that area.
 

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I knew I could count on BITOG for quick, helpful replies! (y)

The cabinet is a combo of ply and solid wood.

I do have an oscillating saw (12v cordless Makita) which does work great for all sorts of stuff but it just wasn't doing much here. Maybe on account of the glue and weight of the marble top squeezing the blade?

I do have one of those 6 in 1 tools, just tried it out with the mini sledge and it seems like it's going to do the trick. I'll spend some more time with it later today and report back.

jeff
 
I knew I could count on BITOG for quick, helpful replies! (y)

The cabinet is a combo of ply and solid wood.

I do have an oscillating saw (12v cordless Makita) which does work great for all sorts of stuff but it just wasn't doing much here. Maybe on account of the glue and weight of the marble top squeezing the blade?

I do have one of those 6 in 1 tools, just tried it out with the mini sledge and it seems like it's going to do the trick. I'll spend some more time with it later today and report back.

jeff
A 6 in1 tool should work too. I prefer the 4" taping knife because the odds of it slipping out and damaging the cabinet are a lot less and the blade is a bit thinner, but with care the 6 in 1 should do the job. Good luck!
 
Get a 4 inch or so taping knife and a heavy glove. Heat the knife blade up cherry red with a good heat gun or propane torch and see if it will slice thru.
 
A reciprocating saw? If it’s marble it would be easy to crack prying on it, or maybe you meant cultured marble. May lose a little wall, maybe 1/16” but it should saw thru construction adhesive. If it’s cultured marble and the glue is hard maybe a light rap with a hammer would break it loose.
 
Alright I was able to get it off without any damage to speak of using the 6 in 1 tool, 4 lb mini sledge, and the plastic auto trim pry bars.

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Next task is to remove the top from other vanity and transfer it to this one. Thanks everyone!

jeff
 
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