Took a small a small gamble with my ZF 6HP26...
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Originally Posted By: Ducman
How do you check for the proper level on these units.
I think my car has the same transmission but there's no dipstick.
Any work to be performed on this unit requires the exhaust be removed/lowered in that area.
I understand there's an involved process to check fluid level, which requires running the engine/transmission up to a specific temp.
I think I'm going to have to install a vehicle hoist in the garage sooner rather than later.
I assume you mean you have to remove the exhaust to change the filter/pan, but you put the exhaust back on before doing the level check. I helped my brother change the fluid and pan on his BMW with a ZF 6 speed. Some scanners give transmission temp so you know when to fill to overflow. A workaround is to use a IR thermometer and shoot the pan to know when it gets in range.
How do you check for the proper level on these units.
I think my car has the same transmission but there's no dipstick.
Any work to be performed on this unit requires the exhaust be removed/lowered in that area.
I understand there's an involved process to check fluid level, which requires running the engine/transmission up to a specific temp.
I think I'm going to have to install a vehicle hoist in the garage sooner rather than later.
I assume you mean you have to remove the exhaust to change the filter/pan, but you put the exhaust back on before doing the level check. I helped my brother change the fluid and pan on his BMW with a ZF 6 speed. Some scanners give transmission temp so you know when to fill to overflow. A workaround is to use a IR thermometer and shoot the pan to know when it gets in range.
The way I did it the first time was to drain, r&r the pan then refill with the same amount that came out plus a few ounces for good measure. The 2nd time cost me $800 at the dealer.
Temperature could make a significant difference in the fill level, depending on how tightly packed the case is.
The whole lifetime fluid concept is a real [censored] shoot. Even after ZF changed the spec dealers still swear by it in order to deny warranty maintenance plan service and collect those easy $800 service fees. How long will you keep the car, and do you feel lucky?
Temperature could make a significant difference in the fill level, depending on how tightly packed the case is.
The whole lifetime fluid concept is a real [censored] shoot. Even after ZF changed the spec dealers still swear by it in order to deny warranty maintenance plan service and collect those easy $800 service fees. How long will you keep the car, and do you feel lucky?
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Oh I'll have this car a long time. It's not an intimidating car to work on by any stretch. I won't be pulling the fill plug when I put the proper hoses on this next week. I'll measure what was removed since I know I have the level right now and then pump the fluid through the top cooler opening before I put the hose back on.
I'm not a stranger to older luxury cars. It takes a lot for me to back away unless it starts getting too expensive to maintain.
I'm not a stranger to older luxury cars. It takes a lot for me to back away unless it starts getting too expensive to maintain.
Just put the proper rated oil cooler lines on today and was able to fill the cooler back up with transmission fluid by using a hand pump and the top cooler line. All in all a simple job. I fed the hose 5-6 inches over the pipes, but do wonder if I should have flared the metal as well. I did use two hose clamps on each side.
Your instincts are serving you well.
I should imagine a nice ball flare would be best practice.
But the double hose clamps may well be adequate.
What's the worst that can happen? Getting some practice at removing/refitting the transmission for a rebuild because a hose has come off?
I should imagine a nice ball flare would be best practice.
But the double hose clamps may well be adequate.
What's the worst that can happen? Getting some practice at removing/refitting the transmission for a rebuild because a hose has come off?
The pipe walls are extremely thick. It's the reason why I'm not sure that a dual flaring tool would work and would be concerned about cracking it.
I did slide the the hose back around the bends where the pipe indents to act as a flare for one of the two clamps for the connections at the cooler itself. The lines at the other end are too straight to do the same.
I did slide the the hose back around the bends where the pipe indents to act as a flare for one of the two clamps for the connections at the cooler itself. The lines at the other end are too straight to do the same.
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