I'd give it 5 minutes to break that line free but not waste time on it. Just cut the line and replace the hose, cheaper than paying for labor on something that probably is going to be damaged anyways.
Too much rust on brake line?
- Thread starter supton
- Start date
If your teenage daughter is going to drive the CR-V, please have it repaired immediately. If I recall correctly, didn't she flip and total a Camry on ice a year or two ago? Don't take any unnecessary risk, especially when your family is involved.
If you want to take a stab at repairing it yourself, I would suggest cutting the metal line just above the rusted section, then removing the lower section and rubber hose (destructively, if required). That would prevent the good upper section of the metal line from being damaged as described in Post #2.
Most shops will likely insist on replacing the entire line from the proportioning valve to the flexible line because added junctions increase propensity for leaks.
I know you don't want to flare on your own. Got it. Instead, measure (with a string) the entire length of that line from its origin to the brake hose junction. Buy a piece of Ni-Cop replacement line as close to that size as possible. Bend as required and install it yourself. Ni-Cop is easily bent and resists kinking. Some people even bend it by hand. I usually find a small cylindrical object (like a spray paint can) as a bending aid.
If the new line is too long, you might need an extra bend or two, but replacing the whole line is a pretty easy endeavor.
I know you don't want to flare on your own. Got it. Instead, measure (with a string) the entire length of that line from its origin to the brake hose junction. Buy a piece of Ni-Cop replacement line as close to that size as possible. Bend as required and install it yourself. Ni-Cop is easily bent and resists kinking. Some people even bend it by hand. I usually find a small cylindrical object (like a spray paint can) as a bending aid.
If the new line is too long, you might need an extra bend or two, but replacing the whole line is a pretty easy endeavor.
JHZR2
Staff member
I’d swap that.
MB allows one coupling in the line. I used copper nickel line and used SS armor. I probably have more SS armor than I’ll ever need so let me know if you want a length.
MB allows one coupling in the line. I used copper nickel line and used SS armor. I probably have more SS armor than I’ll ever need so let me know if you want a length.
I have a thread on repair of my 2008 MB ML320, but this is more general, so I’m making my own thread.
Here is a failed bubble thread line and nut:
Note the flatness of the bottom of the flare, and the squarish shoulders of the nut.
Now, compare to two nuts I’ve received that are supposedly for bubble flares:
Note how they have a tapered inner diameter?
The right one is OE, the far left is AGS and explicitly says bubble on the box. The middle is SURR, and is supposed to be for bubble.
I don’t think I’m crazy either. It seems that the...
Here is a failed bubble thread line and nut:
Note the flatness of the bottom of the flare, and the squarish shoulders of the nut.
Now, compare to two nuts I’ve received that are supposedly for bubble flares:
Note how they have a tapered inner diameter?
The right one is OE, the far left is AGS and explicitly says bubble on the box. The middle is SURR, and is supposed to be for bubble.
I don’t think I’m crazy either. It seems that the...
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Wasn't expecting this thread to pop up on me... I should look at it, it's been a year, so it's probably worse now. Something else for the to-do list today.
Daughter no longer drives it, but son still does, so no change I guess, neither can deal with a brake failure.
Daughter no longer drives it, but son still does, so no change I guess, neither can deal with a brake failure.
The copper nickel line is easy to work with, and I don't think its hard to flare? My buddy made it look easy and he's not a pro and doesn't do brake lines often.
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