Too many additives to choose from!

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Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: jagtuner28
I have heard that argument before but I also know that modern consumer products are built with manufactured obsolescence in mind. My sealed-for-life tranny and transfer case are an excellent example of this. Furthermore, the API standard that so many people hold to as the holy grail is a standard of minimums not maximums. I wouldn't just go pour anything in my car but I am a critical thinker and don't necessarily swallow the oil company's kool-aid.


Well of course not only are the vehicles built that way, so is oil. Between the two I don't know how anyone gets over 75,000 miles on a vehicle. I know I sure can't.


Ha.

I almost peed.
 
I know, they aren't the coolest mods but they have done something for me. I did manage to get 39hp out of what I've done so far according to the dyno, and my electricals work wonderfully thanks to all the grounding especially when I've got everything turned on. That might not be cool to you but for an old Jag owner electricals that work well are a beautiful sight.
 
It seems as if their are more and more liqui moly fans all the time. Leave it to the Germans to blitzkrieg the additive market.
 
OK, so this is not an OLD Jag as in somthing from the 60's
it's a more modern Ford based Jag.

You have low compression in two cyls.
What can cause low compression.

1) poor Valve seating, as in Burnt or bent valves.
No additive would help here.

2)Scratched/Scored cyl walls (this is where products like Restore might possibly help. But howdidtheyget scratched.

3) Broken piston rings,that could cause the scratching, but I'mnot sure if Restore would help.

4) Stuck piston rings. Rings can stick especially if the car has been layer up or mantenance has been sketchy. Some additives can help here, but once the rings are un-stuck, they would be no longer required.

The above is simplified, but may give you an idea where to start looking to BEST resolve the problem.

I have used additives, but I have used them to rectify a specific problem. ie. stuck rings or an engine that so so worn I havenothing to loose, and just need to get another 2k out of it and cut down onthe smoke screen as I drive through town.

Sorry you got less than awarm welcome here, but please stick around, you may learn why some people were so quick to deride your approach to additives.
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When I changed my spark plugs about a year ago I noticed some oil in the spark plug wells. Naturally I changed the spark plug tube gasket and the upper intake manifold gasket as well but I am curious what could have caused this.

Apparently my Jaguar AJV6 engine is a british built specialized version of ford's duratec design. The differences from the duratec include the variable valve timing, 4 valves per cylinder, sfi fuel injection, and fracture-split forged powder metal connecting rods and a one-piece cast camshaft and has direct-acting mechanical bucket (DAMB) tappets with a 10.3.1 compression ratio.

I have no idea what any of this means (okay, maybe a little of it) but its what wikipedia says about my engine....
 
If you hadn't spent money on mods and additives, you might have some for engine work to make this car run properly.

You don't need nanodiamonds or unicorn tears. You need some real engine work. Start saving now for that, or a replacement vehicle. No more junk.
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Welcome to the forum.

Originally Posted By: jagtuner28
So guys, any suggestions?


Stop using any additives whatsoever.
Run a quality oil/filter combo that's appropriate for the application.
Get an analysis done.



+1 stop using additives.
 
Originally Posted By: expat

OK, so this is not an OLD Jag as in somthing from the 60's
it's a more modern Ford based Jag.

You have low compression in two cyls.
What can cause low compression.

1) poor Valve seating, as in Burnt or bent valves.
No additive would help here.

2)Scratched/Scored cyl walls (this is where products like Restore might possibly help. But howdidtheyget scratched.

3) Broken piston rings,that could cause the scratching, but I'mnot sure if Restore would help.

4) Stuck piston rings. Rings can stick especially if the car has been layer up or mantenance has been sketchy. Some additives can help here, but once the rings are un-stuck, they would be no longer required.

The above is simplified, but may give you an idea where to start looking to BEST resolve the problem.

I have used additives, but I have used them to rectify a specific problem. ie. stuck rings or an engine that so so worn I havenothing to loose, and just need to get another 2k out of it and cut down onthe smoke screen as I drive through town.

Sorry you got less than awarm welcome here, but please stick around, you may learn why some people were so quick to deride your approach to additives.
welcome2.gif
welcome2.gif




Restore contains copper,silver and lead. Once the filter has been overwhelmed and goes into by-pass(those elements aren't small enough to go thru the media)what's left fills in the scoring on cylinder walls. However it is short lived and quickly wears off.
These elements also clog oil passages because they are basically a sludge and drop out of suspension.
I've personally seen what that stuff can do,which is why I never recommend it's use.
My guess is cylinder walls are scored and is the reason there is low compression.


Originally Posted By: jagtuner28
I know, they aren't the coolest mods but they have done something for me. I did manage to get 39hp out of what I've done so far according to the dyno, and my electricals work wonderfully thanks to all the grounding especially when I've got everything turned on. That might not be cool to you but for an old Jag owner electricals that work well are a beautiful sight.
.
I find it extremely had to believe you had this car dynotuned. Sorry.

Exactly what model are you talking about.
And 40hp is a serious jump and from experience it takes heads,cam and intake to get those kind of numbers,unless it's boosted. With some tweaking 40 hp can be had with boost however fuelling would need to be addressed.

Look son,most of us here are for real. Real world builds,real world tuning experience and telling stories here will quickly get you flamed. So just don't do it.
If you've put restore in your engine drain it immediately and do a coupe drain and fills with a cheap conventional to get as much of it out as possible. If you've got low compression miracle in a can isn't going to do anything other than empty your wallet. Save those dollars for a rebuild or new engine.
And be honest. Good grounds. Like come on man
 
Originally Posted By: jagtuner28
When I changed my spark plugs about a year ago I noticed some oil in the spark plug wells. Naturally I changed the spark plug tube gasket and the upper intake manifold gasket as well but I am curious what could have caused this.


Well, did the oil come back after you changed the gaskets?

Other than that it could be a sticky PCV valve.

But, in any case, it has nothing to do with your other issues.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
And 40hp is a serious jump and from experience it takes heads,cam and intake to get those kind of numbers,unless it's boosted. With some tweaking 40 hp can be had with boost however fuelling would need to be addressed.

+1 The difference between a 3800 GenII and a GenII with a SC is about 40HP as they come from the factory.
Granted the SC engine is detuned and capable of a lot more but 40 HP is more than you can get without head work, a cam, bigger injectors, TB work and ecm reprogram to match.
IMO this engine would probably be better served with a good piston soak with GM TEC than trying to create a better cylinder seal with solids in the oil.

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Originally Posted By: jagtuner28
I wouldn't just go pour anything in my car but I am a critical thinker and don't necessarily swallow the oil company's kool-aid.


Originally Posted By: jagtuner28
its been fine ever since I put the restore in there.


... methinks maybe not so much of a critical thinker.
 
Originally Posted By: jagtuner28
I said the word "cheap" where censored is? Is cheap a bad word around here lol?


.. actually, the word you used did start with the letter 'c' but it wasn't cheap. It rhymed with 'trappy'
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
If "modern additives" worked, the oil companies would use them.


But some oil companies do use them and demand a price premium for their products for this exact reason - or does not Millers Oils use WS2 in their nanodrive gear and engine oils?
 
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95 % of the additives are useless junk / expensive mineral oil, and that 5 % might not work in all cases. You have to do your own homework with them.

I've saved failing grease lubricated bevel gear with WS2 powder, but wouldn't pour it into engine oil. It won't stay in suspension very well.
 
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Sheer numbers indicate that additives should work somewhere for someone.

The problem is no one can tell from that experience if the additive will work right here right now....
 
Originally Posted By: Nebroch
95 % of the additives are useless junk / expensive mineral oil, and that 5 % might not work in all cases. You have to do your own homework with them.

I've saved failing grease lubricated bevel gear with WS2 powder, but wouldn't pour it into engine oil. It won't stay in suspension very well.


WS2 is quite heavy so will not stay in suspension as good as MoS2 which is lighter. Graphite is lighter still.
 
Originally Posted By: ChiaroBlue
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
If "modern additives" worked, the oil companies would use them.


But some oil companies do use them and demand a price premium for their products for this exact reason - or does not Millers Oils use WS2 in their nanodrive gear and engine oils?


I believe he was referring to the MAJOR worldwide oil companies, and 'on the shelf' type additives which are so hated and despised on here.
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Millers is a specialty, 'boutique' oil company, and the WS2 they use (which DOES stay in suspension), is NOT a 'snake oil' type of 'on the shelf' additive.
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver

I believe he was referring to the MAJOR worldwide oil companies, and 'on the shelf' type additives which are so hated and despised on here.
wink.gif


Millers is a specialty, 'boutique' oil company, and the WS2 they use (which DOES stay in suspension), is NOT a 'snake oil' type of 'on the shelf' additive.


Yes, and I do understand very well why it should generally be considered a bad idea to use an 'on the shelf' type additive from e.g. Bob's Additives Inc. However, for me its becomes less clear why it would necessarily be a bad idea if the additive comes from a sufficiently large oil company, and that oil compnay states that the additive is beneficial and neutral in respect to add-packs in commercially available oils (and if user reviews seem to be good as well). It may very well be a waste of money, but that is a another question.

I have had a very good experience with Millers nanodrive gear oils, by the way. If I did not know that I will be immediately shot down for providing anecdotal evidence, I would claim that I have noticed an improvement in fuel mileage after using it in the diffs of my Audi Q7...
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