Too low engine temperature with SAE 50 grade

[Dr. T]

No, there is no risk of anything bad happening with the 5-50. The probably answer to your consumption issue is the fact that you're using M-1...along with the noise increase (discussed last week)...consumption is very frequently an issue with all of their grades in a lot of engines....

Change the thermostat. Continue the run with the 5-50 and then consider changing brands or back to a 5-40. Or continue with the M-1 for another run. It may very well be cleaning things out in your first run (or first couple of runs) and hence the consumption.

 

[haley10]

kilou, glad you solved the problem.

If you ran very long with the reduced oil temps., I'm not sure the uoa is going to look very good anyway. There may have been increased fuel dilution because it was running too rich a mixture, etc. The uoa would probably just point to the problem you've already repaired.

 

[kilou]

quote:

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Originally posted by haley10:
kilou, glad you solved the problem.

If you ran very long with the reduced oil temps., I'm not sure the uoa is going to look very good anyway. There may have been increased fuel dilution because it was running too rich a mixture, etc. The uoa would probably just point to the problem you've already repaired.

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Probably but I assume the UOA would still be accurate when it comes to metal particles and this would be useful to know how healthy is my engine. Moreover I plan to do another UOA with the current 5W40 I poured today so as to compare both the 5W40 semi-synthetic and the 5W50 full synthetic as far as engine wear is concerned.

Actually I do not know whether my current 5W40 is a semi-synthetic or full synthetic. The oil is Motorex Select SP-X 5W40. It is not well known outside of Switzerland because that oil is manufactured here but I've always heard good things about them. Moreover this oil is certified by a lot of manufacturers. It has the following:

BMW LL-98
MB229.3
VW502 00 / 505 00
GM-LL-B-025
Posrche

I believe the Mobil1 5W50 doesn't have all these specifications (especially MB229.3???) but I may be wrong. Anyway I believe this Motorex is a very good oil that can sustain drain intervals of 15000km quite easily. If you know any info about this oil, I'll be glad to know more (which synthetic base etc).

 

[Matt89]

quote:

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Originally posted by kilou:


My engine is running at perfect 87°C with the new thermostat

[/QB]

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It's definitely a good feeling. I had a similar issue with a Volvo...weak heat, never got warm etc.

I have a Chevy now that I'd like to change the thermostat as a preventative measure, but to do so I'd have to practically take the engine out!

 

[Gary Allan]

quote:

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It has the following:

BMW LL-98
MB229.3
VW502 00 / 505 00
GM-LL-B-025
Posrche

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You nodic Euros have all the fun ..

 

[Whimsey]

quote:

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Originally posted by kilou:

quote:

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Originally posted by Whimsey:

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Chances are if you have an overhead cam engine where the sparkplugs pass through the valve cover then most likely the seal around the sparkplug hole is bad. I have a 2.0L Ford Zetec engine and my #1 sparkplug has oil on it's threads. And like you the "business end" of the plug is dry and fine. It's not bad enough for me to remove the valve cover and fix it a this time.

Whimsey [/QB]

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Maybe I have not properly tightened that spark plug last time.... What is that seal around the spark plug hole? I cannot see any. The only "seal" I have is a little metal ring that comes with each spark plug and that should seal the plug to the cam cover. I changed the spark plugs today and I'll see if the problem occurs again. [/QB][/QUOTE]

If you remove the valve cover and turn it upside down you'll see the round seals in the valve cover around the spark plug holes. So in an engine with the spark plugs through the valve cover you will not only have the "valve cover gasket" you will also have seals for the spark plug "holes". As I said before. If the oil leak is not causing any running problems I would not remove the valve cover just to replace the seals. If you have to remove the valve cover for whatever then that's the time to replace those seals and the valve cover gasket.

Whimsey

 

[Rickey]

If there is some way to look at the outside base of the sparkplug after it's been run a few hunderd miles. And this observation without removing the plug. Then look for oil around the outside base of the plug. If so then the O-ring leak in the valve cover is confirmed. This assumes that the sparkplugs do indeed install through holes in the valve covers. If the leak is insufficent to cause wetness of the sparkplug insulator then it's probably not an immediate worry. Good Luck... Rickey

 

[kilou]

quote:

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Originally posted by Whimsey:

[/QB]

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Chances are if you have an overhead cam engine where the sparkplugs pass through the valve cover then most likely the seal around the sparkplug hole is bad. I have a 2.0L Ford Zetec engine and my #1 sparkplug has oil on it's threads. And like you the "business end" of the plug is dry and fine. It's not bad enough for me to remove the valve cover and fix it a this time.

Whimsey [/QB][/QUOTE]

Maybe I have not properly tightened that spark plug last time.... What is that seal around the spark plug hole? I cannot see any. The only "seal" I have is a little metal ring that comes with each spark plug and that should seal the plug to the cam cover. I changed the spark plugs today and I'll see if the problem occurs again.

About oil, I switched back to 5W40 semi-synthetic oil today. Might sound stupid but I feel better with that. I still have a couple of 5W50 and may be using it again next time though. I took a sample of the draining 5W50 and I will probably do an oil analysis to have some information on the state of the engine.


My engine is running at perfect 87°C with the new thermostat