Tire leaking from bead/rim

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Brybo86

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Oct 8, 2011
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Madiganistan/Chiraq
To break the bead
I tried ratchet straps and floorjack
I tried jacking up car and putting a block of wood between tire and frame
Then I tried this
[Linked Image]


Still didn't work, I ended up taking to the local tire shop and they broke the bead for me for free..nice guy

This is what the bead looked like with a bunch of chalk stuff falling out

IMAG2191.webp
 
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good old salty corrosion. the salt, and esp the brine solutions they use these days are several times more corrosive than what we used to see.
bead leaks are very common these days. had one in my sable last winter, took it to the tire shop, heard them grinding for quite some time...
 
I cleaned off the rim with a wire brush and sandpaper.
Should I get and use some of this stuff?
[Linked Image]

Or just reseat bead with soap and water?
 
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I use that bead sealer on pretty much everything I have to break down. Unless it's a brand new wheel. It doesn't cement the tire to the wheel like the stuff some of the tire shops around here use. To break the tire down, I use a jig that my dad made that fits the tire and a hi-lift jack. Works great!

Harbor freight sells an awesome wire brush for cleaning beads! It's narrow and fits inside of a broken down tire awesome.
 
Thankfully , they do not use a lot of salt around here .

Two thoughts .

Salvage yard wheel / rim .

Think HF also makes a tool / machine to change tires ?

Tube .
 
I have used a tow hitch to break a bead several times. Jack the vehicle up, put the tire under the vehicle, then a piece of wood in place on the hitch and tire, and let the jack down. Always breaks the bead.
 
Originally Posted by WyrTwister
Thankfully , they do not use a lot of salt around here .

Two thoughts .

Salvage yard wheel / rim .

Think HF also makes a tool / machine to change tires ?

Tube .


Unfortunately for really, really stuck beads they won't work.

I've had them get so corroded together that I managed to lift the front of my F-350 right off the ground with the high-lift jack.
 
a simple coat of shellac stopped my leaking cast reproduction 64 corvette knock offs. of course clean thoroughly + dry thoroughly first.
 
I had a tough bead to break on my under the pickup spare tire. The floor jack ratchet strap while difficult got the job done and it seemed less hassle than the other DIY ways. Of course a nice guy at a local tire shop is much better.
 
Your device might work if you cut that foot-long 2x4 into one about 4-5 inches long.

Did you dismount the tire or work in the narrow alley between your compressed tire and the inner wheel surface?
 
DIY tire changers should have a bead breaker on them. Such as the one sold at Harbor Freight for $40 or so.
It's still a hassle sometimes, but it's worked great compared to the internet hack methods I previously used.

I know someone who had tires professionally installed a couple years ago from a very popular regional chain store. This past winter, two of the tires started leaking a lot after a couple really cold days. Had the store fix them under warranty. The store person said they got a lot of bead leaks lately due to corporate making them switch to a different bead sealant goop.

Now that I think about it, should have asked them what kind of bead goop they previously used so I'd know which goop is the good goop.
 
A lot of the local tire shops won't clean the surface on the wheel, just lather on more sealer. But some wheels are just awful when it comes to it. The junkyard wheels I ran on my Focus would always corrode after a year or two. I don't think I went through a single winter with that car where I didn't have to break down and clean / seal at least one wheel. Whatever the early 00's Ford aluminum wheels were made of was just not good quality.
 
when i worked at a service center after dismounting the old tire, we always cleaned the rim flanges before installing a new tire or repaired tire, aluminum rims especially, very rarely was the bead sealer actually needed unless for some reason the rim was pitted or tire bead pitted etc.


alot of the reason why certain rims corrode etc is because a lot of the tire lube used at shops is water based, a soap packet mixed with water because it quick and easy and easily applied, but its not a very good anti-corrosive lube


better lubes are more of a paste or actual grease like substance and works a lot better to keep the rims from corroding etc. and of course they cost more.



that rim above actually doesn't look very bad, an electric grinder with a wire wheel would clean that up pretty well in less then minute with the tire off the rim of course.
 
Originally Posted by Black_Thunder
when i worked at a service center after dismounting the old tire, we always cleaned the rim flanges before installing a new tire or repaired tire, aluminum rims especially, very rarely was the bead sealer actually needed unless for some reason the rim was pitted or tire bead pitted etc.


alot of the reason why certain rims corrode etc is because a lot of the tire lube used at shops is water based, a soap packet mixed with water because it quick and easy and easily applied, but its not a very good anti-corrosive lube


better lubes are more of a paste or actual grease like substance and works a lot better to keep the rims from corroding etc. and of course they cost more.



that rim above actually doesn't look very bad, an electric grinder with a wire wheel would clean that up pretty well in less then minute with the tire off the rim of course.



I use straight coolant - it's good for the rubber and it is doesn't corrode steel or aluminum.
 
Originally Posted by Miller88
Originally Posted by Black_Thunder
when i worked at a service center after dismounting the old tire, we always cleaned the rim flanges before installing a new tire or repaired tire, aluminum rims especially, very rarely was the bead sealer actually needed unless for some reason the rim was pitted or tire bead pitted etc.


alot of the reason why certain rims corrode etc is because a lot of the tire lube used at shops is water based, a soap packet mixed with water because it quick and easy and easily applied, but its not a very good anti-corrosive lube


better lubes are more of a paste or actual grease like substance and works a lot better to keep the rims from corroding etc. and of course they cost more.



that rim above actually doesn't look very bad, an electric grinder with a wire wheel would clean that up pretty well in less then minute with the tire off the rim of course.



I use straight coolant - it's good for the rubber and it is doesn't corrode steel or aluminum.




I've never heard of using coolant as lube. I know out west a lot of farmers will put coolant inside tires because they run over a lot of cactus etc and the coolant swells up the rubber and keeps small punctures from leaking.


I've also heard of guys using armor-all as a tire lubricant.
 
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