Tiny magnetic particles in my oil filter. Oh no!!!

[wrd1972]

I have a 95 Camaro Z28 with a modified LT1 (SBC) making around 450 FWHP. Engine runs perfect thropugh and through.

Every time I change the oil I cut the filter open for analysis. Every time there is a generous amount (3-2 particles per pleat average) of very tiny shiny silver particles that will be attracted by a magnet. Again they are very small but numerous. The magnetic drain plug will also show a very small amount of fuzz on it which most will consider normal.

I really believe that the stuff in the filter is the stuff that the magnetic drain plug simply did not catch. Never any chucks or larger fragments.

Should I be worried about this or is it normal?
Thanks in advance for all replies.

 

[OVERKILL]

In short: No, metal in your filter isn't normal. I've never had it in anything I've ever owned.

 

[electrolover]

its probably all that FRONT wheel horse power thats doing it

 

[ARCOgraphite]

How do you cut open your filter? Tubing cutter or saw? If its a saw or carbide disc on a dremel tool - ignore what is in the filter - prob came from the sawing. Engines will generate about 1 tsp of wear metals per oci. - look like you getting a lot of iron from cams, rockers or gasp cyl. walls. A bit of fuzz is OK. What oil and filter? I hope its a light HDEO or Brad Penn race oil - or at least M1 10-40 or 5w-40 Shell Helix Ultra.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
In short: No, metal in your filter isn't normal. I've never had it in anything I've ever owned.


I have to agree. It needs further investigation. What oil and filter are you using?

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: electrolover
its probably all that FRONT wheel horse power thats doing it

I'm pretty sure he's meaning Flywheel Horse Power

 

[The motor guy]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
How do you cut open your filter? Tubing cutter or saw? If its a saw or carbide disc on a dremel tool - ignore what is in the filter - prob came from the sawing. Engines will generate about 1 tsp of wear metals per oci. - look like you getting a lot of iron from cams, rockers or gasp cyl. walls. A bit of fuzz is OK. What oil and filter? I hope its a light HDEO or Brad Penn race oil - or at least M1 10-40 or 5w-40 Shell Helix Ultra.


An oil filter cutter. summit racing has one. I bought it and it works pretty good. You can cut the filter open without making metal shavings. Just don't cut your hand open also.

 

[Errtt]

I asked recently about cutting filters open in the "Oil Filter: section. Folks use several methods, but one reply link was on a exhaust cutter - I had forgot that I had one I bought new years ago, just never used it.
The filter section has several filters cut open and the methods used to cut them.
I had concern also about metal particles cutting them with a hack saw, high speed air cut-off, or dremel.

 

[Steve S]

To worry about it means r@r the engine and a tear down to inspect? Some metal could be normal. Probably the cam or cam chain is it a roller cam? Just the first guess.

 

[electrolover]

LT1 is a roller. it would have to be from the cylinder walls and rings. i bet he raps it up every now and then. try a race oil man vr1 is cheap

 

[chubbs1]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
How do you cut open your filter? Tubing cutter or saw? If its a saw or carbide disc on a dremel tool - ignore what is in the filter - prob came from the sawing. Engines will generate about 1 tsp of wear metals per oci. - look like you getting a lot of iron from cams, rockers or gasp cyl. walls. A bit of fuzz is OK. What oil and filter? I hope its a light HDEO or Brad Penn race oil - or at least M1 10-40 or 5w-40 Shell Helix Ultra.


+1

 

[wrd1972]

Thanks guys.

FWHP = flywheel horsepower
lol

I have been using Regular Penzoil 5w30 but I recently bumped up to 10w40 to boost pressure a bit. Pressure has never been a major issue but my bearing clearances are a tad looser than OEM and many have suggested a bit higher viscosity oil.

I have been using K&N oil filters and they are cut open with a filter cutter so there is no chance of shavings.

Motor has a billet roller cam.

 

[electrolover]

how do you drive it? are you seeing sustained high rpms or just redline shifts every now and then?
if its seeing a long time above 5 i would go 20/50
if your just hitting 7k getting on the highway i would go 15w40 rotella. it really sounds like rings and bore wear but if its stroked of has a crankscraper its a whole new ballgame

 

[ARB1977]

Next time get a UOA done if your worried. I don't cut open my filters....maybe I should.

 

[mechtech2]

Stick shift? Maybe from the thrust bearing surfaces, whick is kinda normal.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Stick shift? Maybe from the thrust bearing surfaces, whick is kinda normal.


Those wouldn't be magnetic however. The bearings are usually tri-metal.

 

[electrolover]

the only other thing i can think of is if he put new rods in and the side clearance is too tight.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

The oil the OP chose is WAY UNDERSPEC for that engines specific output. Run a better oil. If running "on the cheap" you could run 4T superbike oil - that stuff is better antiwear than anything you get off the shelf - even VR-1 smog legal. Dont run any SL or SM oils unless they are REAL syn + have confirmed high % ester basestock.

 

[electrolover]

i know plenty of 500 hp sbcs running pyb. and they are still going

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Not for long