Timing light

I would say that unless you deal with older vehicles then the timing light is just taking up space in your tool box. You can adjust the ignition timing on some 1990's era vehicles that had electronic ignition and adjustable distributors but that's about it. I don't know of anything made in the 21st century that would need it.

Today I am going to dig my timing light out, wrap it in plastic, and put it into storage. Thank you for bringing this to my attention.

** EDIT ** Holy Cannoli! While digging out my timing light from the bottom drawer of my old tool box I came across this fossil. This is an old BMW Inspection/oil reset tool from back in the Messerschmitt days before the OBD port communications. I actually still use this thing on my 1999 Model E46 to reset the oil and inspection light on the dashboard. I jumper pins 17 and 20 in the underhood 20-pin plug to give me full module access with a modern scan tool at the OBD port. Fascinating stuff.

Now back to the timing light disposal.

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50? Try 60! LOL. I've never set points. I've seen my neighbor use a timing light back in the 70s when he was working on a car from the 60s but I never had the need to learn to use one.
I'm 54 and have worked on many sets of points. When I worked at the radiator shop the shops in the area would bring me cars to put points in for them as they didn't teach that in the automotive schools any more.

I drove a 73 international pickup untill 2012 and it had points. The points in my case tractor are the same as a 65 jeep and 50's dodge or DeSoto. Probably other models too. They were actually in stock at AutoZone once I found the AutoZone number for them
 
I'll probably keep this around for a long time. I got this Heathkit scope from an ebay seller. The seller/builder was a bored to tears US Navy officer that was stationed in Iceland.

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Last time I used it was on the Legend to find an intermittent misfire. I had to back probe the connector at the coil to get it to show the secondary pattern.
 
Donald, I have one too as well as a old fashion Dwell meter. I have found that most people under the age of 30 have no idea how to set points or how to use either tool. Next door neighbor who is older than I bought a 73 Ford Mustang Mach 1 with the 351 Cleveland. It has a dual point distributor. He changed the points but had no idea on how to set them with the dwell meter. You have to do one set at time with part of business card in the one side you are not adjusting.......really old mechanic's trick.
I bet the age is closer to 45+

My 1975 Volvo had them and pretty sure by 1978 no more points (seeing as I drove my 1979 from 90-98 and never did anything with points). Come to think of it, a 1976 Buick had what they called HEI. High energy ignition
 
E85 is over 100 octane.
Jeff, another option would be to mix some 100LL aviation fuel. Really expensive, but would make it run good. Your car should also have the tach drive on the distibutor. Hang onto that, they are getting harder to find.
 
E85 is over 100 octane.
Since you’re continuing to suggest this - what would you recommend for new main jet sizes, and new needles in his carburetor? How about fuel level setting? How about fuel pump changes? Initial timing? Vacuum advance? Total timing?
 
I'll probably keep this around for a long time. I got this Heathkit scope from an ebay seller. The seller/builder was a bored to tears US Navy officer that was stationed in Iceland.

View attachment 164907

Last time I used it was on the Legend to find an intermittent misfire. I had to back probe the connector at the coil to get it to show the secondary pattern.
Wow.......Heathkit is still in business. Could have fooled me. https://shop.heathkit.com/shop
 
Since you’re continuing to suggest this - what would you recommend for new main jet sizes, and new needles in his carburetor? How about fuel level setting? How about fuel pump changes? Initial timing? Vacuum advance? Total timing?
You would have to ask that as well as the mods required, on one of the E85 or vehicle specific forums. You can Google "E85 octane" if you don't believe me about the octane rating. It's a common mod for those wanting higher octane than premium but don't want to spend the money on aviation gas.
 
Since you’re continuing to suggest this - what would you recommend for new main jet sizes, and new needles in his carburetor? How about fuel level setting? How about fuel pump changes? Initial timing? Vacuum advance? Total timing?

I'd be interested in hearing the suggestions here too.

Also, what about fuel line material? Coatings in the gas tank to keep it from being eaten alive? Materials for the hard lines from the tank? You mentioned the fuel pump-if it's a mechanical pump is there a diaphragm available for it that is E85 compatible? Otherwise, is there a good electric option?

To the bigger question in this thread-I'd not be without a timing light but then I have a car with points. With that said, there are electronic ignition systems(factory and aftermarket) that trigger off the distributor cap and can benefit from setting with a timing light also. The late MG ignition was like this.

I have used my timing light as a diagnostic tool even on 90s cars. They're a quick and handy to check for and monitor spark with the engine cranking or running. I say 90s cars because I feel like much beyond there you get into coil on plug so there's no good way to clamp the inductive pick-up, but they will work with anything where there's a plug wire you can get the clamp around.
 
I'd be interested in hearing the suggestions here too.

Also, what about fuel line material? Coatings in the gas tank to keep it from being eaten alive? Materials for the hard lines from the tank? You mentioned the fuel pump-if it's a mechanical pump is there a diaphragm available for it that is E85 compatible? Otherwise, is there a good electric option?

To the bigger question in this thread-I'd not be without a timing light but then I have a car with points. With that said, there are electronic ignition systems(factory and aftermarket) that trigger off the distributor cap and can benefit from setting with a timing light also. The late MG ignition was like this.

I have used my timing light as a diagnostic tool even on 90s cars. They're a quick and handy to check for and monitor spark with the engine cranking or running. I say 90s cars because I feel like much beyond there you get into coil on plug so there's no good way to clamp the inductive pick-up, but they will work with anything where there's a plug wire you can get the clamp around.
Just one example,

https://www.holley.com/blog/post/tech_tip_e85_conversion_on_a_4150_qft_carburetor_/

Yes you would have to change lines and probably the fuel pump.
 
You would have to ask that as well as the mods required, on one of the E85 or vehicle specific forums. You can Google "E85 octane" if you don't believe me about the octane rating. It's a common mod for those wanting higher octane than premium but don't want to spend the money on aviation gas.
I know the octane is higher. We all do.

Point is: you have no idea what needs to be done to the car to make it run on E85.

You are making suggestions without knowing what they entail. Everything on the 427 that would need to be changed: carburetor jetting and adjustment. Timing. Distributor advance curve. Fuel delivery. All of it.

Yet, despite complete ignorance of what is required on a carbureted, points ignition, high compression engine, you continue to make the suggestion.

I can’t tell if you’re trolling, or actually think you’re helpful, but either way, it needs to stop.
 
You would have to ask that as well as the mods required, on one of the E85 or vehicle specific forums. You can Google "E85 octane" if you don't believe me about the octane rating. It's a common mod for those wanting higher octane than premium but don't want to spend the money on aviation gas.
@atikovi, can you please start a new thread on this if want to make other recommendations with added links? I didnt mean to hijack the OPs original post.
 
Jeff, another option would be to mix some 100LL aviation fuel. Really expensive, but would make it run good. Your car should also have the tach drive on the distibutor. Hang onto that, they are getting harder to find.
I don't push the cars; they are collectors. I keep them because they are a piece of Americana. Chevron 91* is fine. I just tune the cars based on available fuel.

The factory mechanical curve works OK, remember they were conservative, not performance optimal. The big problem is low load advance from vacuum cannisters. It makes iron headed high compression V8s ping like crazy.

My 68 Vette has the L36, base 427. It has the tach drive; my brother rebuilt it for me. You can buy aftermarket tack drive distributers. But my car is pretty original, just the way I like it. My Oldsey is one of the most original 65 4-4-2 left.
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