Resealed my timing cover today and realized after install that I forgot to add sealant to the circled area.
So, 3-4 more hours of teardown, cleaning and redo. Plus 4 days since some of the gaskets are one-time use.
How was your Friday?
Timing Cover Oops
- Thread starter The Critic
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Resealed my timing cover today and realized after install that I forgot to add sealant to the circled area.
So, 3-4 more hours of teardown, cleaning and redo. Plus 4 days since some of the gaskets are one-time use.
How was your Friday?
Owen Lucas
$100 Site Donor 2023
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That sure is one clean timing cover!View attachment 86569
Resealed my timing cover today and realized after install that I forgot to add sealant to the circled area.
So, 3-4 more hours of teardown, cleaning and redo. Plus 4 days since some of the gaskets are one-time use.
How was your Friday?
Lookin' good, bro.
I just spent 5 hours replacing a single switch. So not as bad but still not great.How was your Friday?
It happens to the best of us. Had just finished installing the harmonic balancer on my 383 Mopar when I looked over saw the timing chain oil slinger. #$%ffHFFtr^&%$Hb$Ty...................................................... I learned then to lay "everything" out and look twice before installing once.
It happens, learn from it and move on, bet you wont ever do that again. It does suck big time though.
Good, lil’ cold but Friday.View attachment 86569
Resealed my timing cover today and realized after install that I forgot to add sealant to the circled area.
So, 3-4 more hours of teardown, cleaning and redo. Plus 4 days since some of the gaskets are one-time use.
How was your Friday?
Found time to get back to this car.
Notice how little RTV is on the mating surfaces. Most of it packs the “groove” and/or gets squeezed out. So, more RTV does not equate to a better seal.
IIRC the spec for Drei Bond is a 1 or 1.5mm bead.
Cleaning this stuff is real fun. This is just an in-progress picture.
Don’t worry about the particles, I will send the cover thru a parts washer after I am done.
I was wondering about those spots & figured there was a reason.
Sounds about right for German cars. Their parts tend to be more finely machined so the needed gap fill is significantly less.
I didn’t put enough RTV on two of the T-Joints last time and it started seeping after 25-30K.
Just for reference, this is a 3mm bead. It is a lot less than what most people think.
Got the mating surfaces cleaned up. For access, it was easier to do the cleaning with the chain removed.
Now just waiting for the o-rings and gaskets before I can reassemble.
Ah man.....We have all messed up!!!!
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I definitely would've said LOTS of bad words
Looks like a Prius. I have done several head gasket jobs on those. My current daily driver 2010 Prius (commercial use) needed a head gasket at 515k. Now has 670k on it. No oil leaks knock on wood. Definitely nerve-wracking getting everything clean, the FIPG on the cover and then wrangling it in there without disturbing the FIPG.
I am curious. Did you run it before remembering that you missed that spot? I wonder if it would have even leaked. Those two machined surfaces pressed tight together right there at that bolt. Not like it's under pressure or anyting, just splash oil up there. All the critical oil pressure passages are o-ringed. I'm thinking some type of sealing washer underneath that flanged bolt head. Kinda like old Honda valve cover bolts if memory serves. Or just a small version of a drain plug gasket. Those hold oil and don't leak. Or... since it's your personal vehicle, just get it good and clean with brake parts cleaner and fill that entire cavity with FIPG (over the bolt). Just thinking out loud.
Of course this is a moot point now since you fixed it correctly.
I am curious. Did you run it before remembering that you missed that spot? I wonder if it would have even leaked. Those two machined surfaces pressed tight together right there at that bolt. Not like it's under pressure or anyting, just splash oil up there. All the critical oil pressure passages are o-ringed. I'm thinking some type of sealing washer underneath that flanged bolt head. Kinda like old Honda valve cover bolts if memory serves. Or just a small version of a drain plug gasket. Those hold oil and don't leak. Or... since it's your personal vehicle, just get it good and clean with brake parts cleaner and fill that entire cavity with FIPG (over the bolt). Just thinking out loud.
Of course this is a moot point now since you fixed it correctly.
Attachments
Reassembled it on Tuesday night. I didn’t forget the “spot” this time, but I accidentally smeared a hair of FIPG on the crank snout while wrestling the cover in place. Squeeze out around the entire perimeter looks pretty good so hopefully it will be fine.
Waited 36 hours for the fipg to cure before adding oil and coolant. So far, no puddles…yet.
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