Timing Chain Life

My first gen eco has a single long chain that handles both sides of the V. Known for stretching over time. Oil changes are early and often to stave off the issue.

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I'm not fan of timing chains nor belts. Timing chains that are miles long have lots of wear points. I've always found it goofy that for a belt pulleys are used as the guide and for chains its crap plastic, that can break etc. A dry belt is the easy and best to change and usually will not stretch and wear like a chain will. Chains open you up for leaks from the RTV going bad, and in tight spaces resealing and cleaning can be horrible.

K24 ? Yeah, but the V-6's all have belts.
You mean on OHC engines, right? The alternative is gears.
 
Never changed a short chain on a V-6 or V-8, except for my 1973 351W with the nylon/aluminum cam gear. It jumped a tooth, but I was able to drive it by adjusting distributor. Changed it a few days later. Nylon teeth were shredded. Long chains on OHC cars I let go to about 250K. Don't trust the guides anymore. Prone to cracks and wear.
 
The same can happen to a belt.
Also, many people mess up the belt jobs too, either by poor quality of work, poor replacements parts, or both.

There is no failure proof solution.
The effort required to do anything besides “roll in” a new chain, or replace a thread-in tensioner is immense.

Swapping a belt is super easy.

Both have intrinsic concerns of screw-ups.
 
My first gen eco has a single long chain that handles both sides of the V. Known for stretching over time. Oil changes are early and often to stave off the issue.

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I noticed the FB25 subaru engine uses a chain for each bank, but I assume its just easier to do that with a flat engine? Also the timing chains just rotate the cams, as the oil pump is run right off the end of the crank shaft in the timing chain cover. The early FB's had some locating pins for the guides that fell out of the block which caused some clatter, but it seems that was an easy fix in the factory for the next ones.
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It is kind of crazy how many big chunks of aluminum have to fit and seal well, for oil and coolant to go and stay where it is supposed too in these engines.... But it seems the headgaskets aren't an issue anymore at least! And the timing chain isn't a problem.
 
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I noticed the FB25 subaru engine uses a chain for each bank, but I assume its just easier to do that with a flat engine? Also the timing chains just rotate the cams, as the oil pump is run right off the end of the crank shaft in the timing chain cover. The early FB's had some locating pins for the guides that fell out of the block which caused some clatter, but it seems that was an easy fix in the factory for the next ones.
View attachment 302078
It is kind of crazy how many big chunks of aluminum have to fit and seal well, for oil and coolant to go and stay where it is supposed too in these engines.... But it seems the headgaskets aren't an issue anymore at least! And the timing chain isn't a problem.
Apparently the placement of the coolant thermostat fixed the warping of heads.
 
My '88 F-250 had the 300 I6 with the nylon timing gears, which failed on the 401. That was an expensive tow.

Speaking of timing gears:
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Somebody developed a gear drive swap for the venerable 427 SOHC back in the day.
As far as I know mine still has the nylon gear in it at 265k/37 years old.. Its weird to feel like I have the most reliable engine in history and a ticking time bomb at the same time..
 
I also had a ford 4.9 I-6 with nylon gears. I had them changed for steel ones before they broke. Bevelled gears are much quieter than straight cut gears which is why you hear them sing.

Ilmor engines often used in boats have gears instead of chains, I believe.

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