Timing chain interval
- Thread starter mez
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I don't recall if it has a belt or a chain. Chains should last the life of the car. If it's a belt, it's due for a change.
it's a timing belt and recommended to be replaced every 90,000 miles.
Replace the belt and water pump as well.
Replace the belt and water pump as well.
A.S.A.P.
You can look up this on the GATES website, http://www.gates.com. Its not cheap but as others have said, have the water pump replaced also. When you have the belt replaced for the 2nd time, have the idlers replaced also.
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I found their Got an interference engine? Find out here! link kinda comical. If you don't have an interference engine, there appears to be nothing to tell you. It's only if you have one that it lets you know. Your eyes dance around the page looking for some simple "YES YOU HAVE" or "NO YOU DON'T" confirmation ..all the while you're wondering if they were trying to make it a test for your organizational skills ..
The Toyota 3.0 V6 isn't an interference design. I would just replace the timing belt and all drive belts when you get around to it. The job shouldn't run more than $400 even at your dealership. I usually see belt specials for this engine for under $300.
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Non-interference? Relax. Wait for some co-component failure to justify the whole job. It could be years before needing to be done. Now if you're 200% over the recommended change out, sure; elective surgery isn't out of line.
Make sure to have a contingency plan in place for when (not if) a belt breaks on the road. You might want to take a pro-active approach if being stranded, and then paying for getting towed isn't your idea of fun.
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Originally Posted By: CBDFrontier06
Make sure to have a contingency plan in place for when (not if) a belt breaks on the road. You might want to take a pro-active approach if being stranded, and then paying for getting towed isn't your idea of fun.
Exactly. If you ignore the belt it's gonna break at the worst possible time. Yes, your engine might be ok but you will be stranded.
Make sure to have a contingency plan in place for when (not if) a belt breaks on the road. You might want to take a pro-active approach if being stranded, and then paying for getting towed isn't your idea of fun.
Exactly. If you ignore the belt it's gonna break at the worst possible time. Yes, your engine might be ok but you will be stranded.
Start getting parts and tools together.
JHZR2
Staff member
Timing chains "stretch" (actually wear) in time. In my MB diesel, I had less than 1 degree of stretch at 235k, but then again, that engine is one of the longest lived engines ever used in a passenger car...
Or previa has 212k on its chain, and all is well.
Telltale signs of trouble are when the chain sprockets wear down to the point where they are sharp. Some cars, even those with double-row chains wear them heavily by 120k miles. Still, they arent nearly the source of worry that belts are. If you have a hydraulic tensioner, you might want to consider replacing it (if its an external job), just to keep the nylon guides happy.
JMH
Or previa has 212k on its chain, and all is well.
Telltale signs of trouble are when the chain sprockets wear down to the point where they are sharp. Some cars, even those with double-row chains wear them heavily by 120k miles. Still, they arent nearly the source of worry that belts are. If you have a hydraulic tensioner, you might want to consider replacing it (if its an external job), just to keep the nylon guides happy.
JMH
Kestas
Staff member
On the old V8s, rule of thumb was to replace the timing chain once there was 10° of slop. This was measured by rotating the crank back and forth while watching for distributor movement. Before rebuilding my rocket V8 olds engine, it had exactly 10° of slop at 165K.
Kestas
Staff member
I have a 91 Mercury with the 302 V8 engine. I'm pretty sure this engine has the nylon-coated timing chain gears. How does one know when the timing chain needs service?
Originally Posted By: Kestas
I have a 91 Mercury with the 302 V8 engine. I'm pretty sure this engine has the nylon-coated timing chain gears. How does one know when the timing chain needs service?
If that 302 has over 60K it's due. Those realy stretch fast and the plastic teeth jam the oil pump which spins the oil pump shaft like a Candy Cane. But it will still run.............A few minutes.
You can check the chain by removing the distributer cap and slowly turning the engine over by hand with a bar back and forth.
If you turn the crank and the distributer doesn't move immediatly it's worn. If it's really bad the timing will jump around when viewed with a timing light. Rev it up to 2500 rpm or so and watch the timing mark dance!
I have a 91 Mercury with the 302 V8 engine. I'm pretty sure this engine has the nylon-coated timing chain gears. How does one know when the timing chain needs service?
If that 302 has over 60K it's due. Those realy stretch fast and the plastic teeth jam the oil pump which spins the oil pump shaft like a Candy Cane. But it will still run.............A few minutes.
You can check the chain by removing the distributer cap and slowly turning the engine over by hand with a bar back and forth.
If you turn the crank and the distributer doesn't move immediatly it's worn. If it's really bad the timing will jump around when viewed with a timing light. Rev it up to 2500 rpm or so and watch the timing mark dance!
I recently replaced the chain in my 98 GMC Yukon at 203,000 miles. It immediately ran just like it's old self. It also stopped this thing it was doing: when accelerating to highway speed it would fall on it's face, have no power and the check engine light would come on. I'd check the light and it was Random Misfire. I guess the cam was moving erratically, causing the distributor to also act poorly. Put a nice Cloyes part in there.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Kestas
On the old V8s, rule of thumb was to replace the timing chain once there was 10° of slop. This was measured by rotating the crank back and forth while watching for distributor movement. Before rebuilding my rocket V8 olds engine, it had exactly 10° of slop at 165K.
MB diesels have a bit more elegant way of measuring, but MB sells woodruff (offset) keys up to 8 degrees, IIRC (it may be 6). Beyond that, change is necessary.
JMH
On the old V8s, rule of thumb was to replace the timing chain once there was 10° of slop. This was measured by rotating the crank back and forth while watching for distributor movement. Before rebuilding my rocket V8 olds engine, it had exactly 10° of slop at 165K.
MB diesels have a bit more elegant way of measuring, but MB sells woodruff (offset) keys up to 8 degrees, IIRC (it may be 6). Beyond that, change is necessary.
JMH
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