Time for a tranny fluid change?

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Lead Shoes

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Its a 99 grand am 3.4L , with 145k on it, i have no knowledge of its previous repairs besides what I've done. when i put it in reverse there is a 2-3 second delay until it engages, and a minor delay when i go to drive. i haven't checked the transmission fluid, because there is no dipstick on my car... but there is a small cap that says Trans Fluid, and is red that is down the throttle. does that cap have a dipstick on it? or is it just the fill point? should i change the fluid? And if so, what brand is the best for my automatic car that I commute with?
 
I would change it regardless and have some peace of mind.

I think any Dex III or Dex VI would be fine.
 
Mercon V would be okay for this application, too, if that's cheaper. It would be better than Dex III.
 
should be Dex VI

It just might turn out to be a brilliant thing to use use the new Amsoil Engine/Trans Flush product to pick up all the %#@$.
 
After 145k miles there is going to be a whole lotta junk in there.
Be sure to clean out the pan really good and replace the filter.

I think you will solve your problems if you change out the old fluid with new fluid, clean up the pan and replace the filter. Just be sure to check it when it is warm after you are done and make sure it is filled properly.
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Originally Posted By: ET16
Mercon V would be okay for this application, too, if that's cheaper. It would be better than Dex III.


I second this. I have Mercon V in my 99 GA and it works great. Thicker fluid is better for an old high mileage tranny like that. There is a fill level plug on the right side of the tranny, and it must be filled with the engine running until it comes out the fill hole. Take pass wheel off for easy access. A bit tricky, but not real bad. My filter was still like new at 100K, and I welded in a tranny drain plug. It took 8 liters of new fluid after I took the pan off and drained it over night.
 
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Originally Posted By: Brenden
how did you lift your car when you did it blue?


I used a floor jack to lift the car, and then jackstands for saftey. Then after the pan is dropped and filter changed, remove passenger wheel, oil level plug and lastly jackstands. Lower car to normal level, and pour in 5-6 quarts. Start engine at idle, and fill one quart at a time and look at oil level hole to see if fluid is present. A flashlight is helpfull. As the fluid get near level, you will see it moving around in the oil level hole. It will start to "spritz" out when full. I then jack car back up and put back jackstands for saftey. (Keep engine running) Put in fill plug, and you can then turn engine off, remove jackstands, install pass wheel and lower car.

Next time, with the drain plug, I will just measure what can out and replace that amount.
 
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Whats all of this [censored] I hear about flushing being bad for your transmission?

In my aged transmission that slips, is it a bad idea to have it flushed?

Or should i just do a filter/fluid change myself?

And the chance that i do have it flushed i will have it done at the GM certified stealership, so if it [censored] up, its on them.
 
Good luck with that!!! If your tranny [censored] the bed due to a flush, there's not a snowball's chance anyone will stand behind it. You see, with the miles that are on it, they'll blame on something, anything else to keep the blame and resulting liability off of them.

I don't care who does it, flushing a transmission with a machine is a bad deal. It takes any contaminates and forces them through the tranny at high pressure. before it exits to the machine. Another negative is that nobody will ever change the filter. So if it's plugged then your problem still exists. Bottom line, drop the pan, clean everything up and replace the filter. If you want to go the extra mile, add several quarts of ATF, then disconnect the return line (from the cooler), start the engine and let it pump the old dirty ATF out until it runs bright red.

BTW, "certified" is not a guarantee that you'll get a quality job. It does up the chances, but remember this... First and foremost, they are human and can make mistakes. Second, they are oftentimes on commission- and that puts pressure on them to perform at a high rate to make money.. Doing that leads to cutting corners. This I have seen with my own eyes. When corners are cut you will suffer, not them and rarely is it the other way around.
 
do a pan drop and filter change only. I think that tranny hold 11 or 12 quarts, so you will get 8 or 9 out with a pan drop. Thats all you want to do with the older units IMO
 
Would i notice any difference if i used Lubeguard when i dropped the pan and changed the filter??

also what specifically does Lubeguard Red do? compared to the black?
 
I depends on if you're noticing anything wrong right now. L/G can help fix some issues, but more importantly it will help extend the life of your A/T. Red protects your A/T by helping run cooler and I believe increasing the lubrication properties of the ATF. The black converts regular ATF into an ATF that is suitable for use in transmissions that require highly friction modified fluid like ATF +4 or Mercon V.
 
I would drop the pan, change filter, install drain plud and refill with Synthetic Dexron VI. Drive for a few weeks, drain pan refill with more Dex VI...them maybe after a month if everything is good do a line flush (NOT WITH MACHINE) suck new fluid in one line and old fluid out the other line until you have all new fluid. Lube Gard was a good product back in the day but I would not add it to Dexron VI, it is a far superior fluid and anything other than Dexron VI in your transmission would be a contaminant. Adding Lube Gard to Dexron VI would be the equivalent of adding STP oil treatment to Amsoil SSO. If your transmission is slipping though it is already on the way out and wont matter much what you put in it...I have personally seen a few cars with slipping trannys go a while longer adding a bottle of Lucas, I think it swells the clutches, I would try that and sell the car while it still moves.
 
well, it doesn't slip, i used the wrong term, it has a delayed engagement when i go from park to reverse or drive. it has no other symptoms besides it shifts a little hard when it changes gears.


Any specific site to buy Dex VI off of?
 
Originally Posted By: Brenden
well, it doesn't slip, i used the wrong term, it has a delayed engagement when i go from park to reverse or drive. it has no other symptoms besides it shifts a little hard when it changes gears.


Any specific site to buy Dex VI off of?
You are good then definitely change fluid and filter.

You can get Dex VI from any auto parts store, like I said though Valvoline was the only Dex VI I found that was 100% synthetic all other was a blend of some sort, I don't know if you guys have a Meijers there but that's where I got my Valvoline for $5.99 a qt, Wally World should have it as well.

Don't forget B&M drain plug, they are easy to install and makes your next drain and fill a breeze.
 
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TO O/P:

If I were you I would:

1. Do pan-off filter change and inspection, clean out the pan and refill trans with any ol Dex VI, syn or not
2. Add a filter on the cooler line; could be Magnefine or other
3. Use a flush additive (the only products I would consider would be LubeGard, ATP, AutoRx, or the new Amsoil Flush) as directed
4. Do a cooler line flush with premium fluid of your choice Merc V or Dex VI.
5. Replace the in-line filter after 1K mi

THE LOGIC: Remove biggest and baddest $%&^ from pan and filter. Use premium flush additive to loosen and suspend remaining muck. Use the inline filter to catch the worst of that muck, then flush the fluid to get rid of the fine stuff and varnish.

Kaboomba
 
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