Tightening drain plug and oil filter.

[ARCOgraphite]

I will assume most master techs prefer to use an offset box wrench on drain plug over a socket wrench - this eliminates the "moment arm" you get from a ratchet handle and socket and gives better feel and reading on the torque applied. Free Professional advice just like you get from mechtech2

 

[buickman50401]

I just go by "feel" with the plug. Tighten to snug and then give it one more little tweak which usually amounts to about 1/20 of a full turn of the plug.

As for the filter, most specify on the box 3/4 to 1 turn after the point the gasket makes contact. Using a black permanent marker or white grease pencil depending on filter color, I mark 4 triangles at even spaces around the filter using the holes in the top of the filter as a guide for where to put the triangles. I color in a pair of them (those directly opposite one another) so I can judge 1/4 of a turn on the filter when tightening. Then I run the filter down until its gasket touches the engine, basically until you can't spin it anymore by just using a finger to turn the can. Then using the triangle markings I tighten the filter to at least 3/4 of a turn past the point of gasket contact.

I got the triangle idea years ago I think from Fram filters which at least at one point used to use a similar marking scheme so you could judge how much you had turned the filter.

Every time it works out to almost exactly 3/4 of a turn from the point of gasket contact to the point that you can no longer turn the can by hand (and would need a wrench if you tried to tighten it further).

 

[69fury]

I gave the ex the better of the cars in the settlement. Fresh oil change even. I've never pulled on a leather belt so hard in my life. Gonna take dynamite to get that focker off.....

 

[GMorg]

My Fumoto has made drain plug tightening a thing of the past. I use contact plus 3/4 of a turn for the filter.

 

[Craig750]

This is real simple! Answer = torque wrench + manufacturer's specification.

It never ceases to amaze me how many know it alls think they can torque accuratley without a torque wrench.

I see it all the time in motorcycle workshops when I have to unfortuately use them as I do not have tyre cahngin equipment.

The last two tyre changes I have had the grease monkeys have over torqued every bolt by at least double. I warned the last shop before they did the work, only to be told that the mechanic was very experienced with Suzuki GSX-Rs and that he races them.

That idiot easily went over double the torque on the rear axle. I even gave the guy a break by lubing the axle nut with WD40 before I measured the braking torque when setting it right.

I called the business back and advised the owner politely, when that didn't work I tore strips out of him.

The business is BALMAIN MOTORCYCLES and they are on par stupid as most of them are out there.

The big laugh is this, a few days later I am watching the Moto GP and there was a change of tyres (wheels) for the last few minutes of qualifying. The pit action was shown on TV, and guess what the team engineers (all 3 I saw) were using when they swapped the wheels over?????????

A TORQUE WRENCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

To say I have total lack of respect for the abilities of most "motorcycle mechanics" is an understatement. I am sure there are real good ones out there, but trust me when I say they are real hard to find.

Sorry to rant but it is so @#%#$ing simple but there are so many people that just don't get it, it is amazing.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

No torque wrench needed on a on a DP. Only a "fairy dust" mechanic would use a torque wrench on a DP

What's NOT commonly torqued and should be hand torqued is lug nuts. You can run em up to 50-70% with a torquestick and finsih them with a hand click bar. Thats my rant ( since the toyota dealer trashed my front disc brakes using an 120lb-ft air gun.

 

[oggb]

I have a Fumoto valve, so...

 

[fdcg27]

Agreed.
There is no need to use a torque wrench on an oil drain plug, just as the various "quick drains" are an answer to a question nobody really asked.
A spin-on can needs hand tightening only.
A canister needs reasonable tightening to allow the o-ring to seal, although the torque required isn't much.
Don't really need a torque wrench for this either.
These aren't cylinder heads we're talking about here.

 

[milwaukee]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
No torque wrench needed on a on a DP. Only a "fairy dust" mechanic would use a torque wrench on a DP

What's NOT commonly torqued and should be hand torqued is lug nuts. You can run em up to 50-70% with a torquestick and finsih them with a hand click bar. Thats my rant ( since the toyota dealer trashed my front disc brakes using an 120lb-ft air gun.


Those must be some weak rotors on your toyota. My vehicle specs 150 ft lb on the lugs. The retards at walmart didn't have an air wrench strong enough to remove them and had to do it by hand.

 

[mopar_monkey]

guess my gun would have ripped the car in half,

ingersoll rand titanium 1/2"

* Forward Torque Range: 50 – 550 ft-lb • Max Torque (Reverse): 780 ft-lb
* NBT (Nut Busting Torque): 1,100 ft-lb
* Blows Per Minute: 1,250
* Free Speed: 9,800 rpm
* Standard Bolt Capacity: 9/16”
* Net Weight (2135TiM AX): 3.95 lb
* Overall Length (2135TiMAX): 7.34”
* Average Air Consumption @ Load: 5 cfm
* Air Inlet: 1/4”
* Minimum Hose Size: 3/8”

 

[Herz]

I use a box end wrench and finger tighten till its snugh then do a little snugging usually 1 quarter turn or less. Oil filter I do by hand till it hits then I turn another half or 3 quarters and I am done.

 

[Gene K]

Oil Filter - Snug and One Tug
Oil Plug - Snug and One Tug

Thats likely about 120 degrees on the filter (By Hand) and 60 degrees on the plug (With a ratchet).

Its the way I was taught 30 years ago. Ive never had one come loose, damaged anything or had issues getting them off.

Now the way the factory tightens them...

 

[Craig750]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
No torque wrench needed on a on a DP. Only a "fairy dust" mechanic would use a torque wrench on a DP

What's NOT commonly torqued and should be hand torqued is lug nuts. You can run em up to 50-70% with a torquestick and finsih them with a hand click bar. Thats my rant ( since the toyota dealer trashed my front disc brakes using an 120lb-ft air gun.


Call me proud to be a "fairy dust" mechanic then.

Seriously though, if someone is asking how much to torque it then it is a wise recommendation for that person to use a torque wrench.

 

[Craig750]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Agreed.
There is no need to use a torque wrench on an oil drain plug, just as the various "quick drains" are an answer to a question nobody really asked.
A spin-on can needs hand tightening only.
A canister needs reasonable tightening to allow the o-ring to seal, although the torque required isn't much.
Don't really need a torque wrench for this either.
These aren't cylinder heads we're talking about here.


Yes, but you may be good at estimating torque. There are many that think they are but the facts prove otherwise.

F1 teams seem to use torque wrenches a whole lot more than most automotive workshops. I would hazard to guess that Ferrari and Porche and other hi-end automotive manufacturers would train their technicians to use a torque wrench more than most mechanics. I know which one I trust more to get it right.

 

[KrisZ]

Originally Posted By: Craig750
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Agreed.
There is no need to use a torque wrench on an oil drain plug, just as the various "quick drains" are an answer to a question nobody really asked.
A spin-on can needs hand tightening only.
A canister needs reasonable tightening to allow the o-ring to seal, although the torque required isn't much.
Don't really need a torque wrench for this either.
These aren't cylinder heads we're talking about here.


Yes, but you may be good at estimating torque. There are many that think they are but the facts prove otherwise.


F1 teams seem to use torque wrenches a whole lot more than most automotive workshops. I would hazard to guess that Ferrari and Porche and other hi-end automotive manufacturers would train their technicians to use a torque wrench more than most mechanics. I know which one I trust more to get it right.



... and I'm sure you've seen F1 teams perform an oil change and using a torque wrench on the drain plug?

Nobody is saying not to use a torque wrench, there are bolts on cars that require proper torque like head bolts and nobody disputes that you need to use the torque wrench on these cases, but drain plug is just not one of them.

If you use a torque wrench on every bolt that you can access, that's fine, but don't pull a straw man argument here with F1 teams.


ETIT: Porsche is not one of the F1 teams, and hasn't been since 1962

 

[Hazmat]

Originally Posted By: Craig750
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
No torque wrench needed on a on a DP. Only a "fairy dust" mechanic would use a torque wrench on a DP

What's NOT commonly torqued and should be hand torqued is lug nuts. You can run em up to 50-70% with a torquestick and finsih them with a hand click bar. Thats my rant ( since the toyota dealer trashed my front disc brakes using an 120lb-ft air gun.


Call me proud to be a "fairy dust" mechanic then.

Seriously though, if someone is asking how much to torque it then it is a wise recommendation for that person to use a torque wrench.


Agreed!
Besides this, there is no reason not to use a torque wrench if you own one.
If you do own one and you don't use it...you will be hitting yourself the first time you strip out the threads.
I have done it both ways and have never had an issue either way, but I know people that thought they could torque properly by "Feel" and have stripped out the threads.

So, now as a matter of making myself feel all cozy inside...I use my torque wrench.

 

[fdcg27]

I don't know that I'm that good at estimating torque, but tight enough to seal and not vibrate loose is tight enough.
The torque of either the filter or the drain plug is not that critical.
It would take real physical effort to actually ruin the threads, unless you are using an impact tool.

 

[fdcg27]

I do own a torque wrench, which I bought for a cylinder head.
I have never used it for either lug nuts/bolts or oil drain plugs.
I have never had any problem with either being too loose or too tight.
Torque is not always all that critical, although you will see good tire shops use a torque wrench, by hand, on the lugs for the final tightening.

 

[D Bone]

They make torque wrenches for a reason. I always torque the drain bolt with my Snap-On torque wrench, and follow the instructions on the filter, which is usually 3/4-1 turn after the gasket makes contact with the filter base...........The way a technician changes the oil, and not a Jiffy Lube grease jockey.

 

[Craig750]

Originally Posted By: KrisZ

... and I'm sure you've seen F1 teams perform an oil change and using a torque wrench on the drain plug?

Nobody is saying not to use a torque wrench, there are bolts on cars that require proper torque like head bolts and nobody disputes that you need to use the torque wrench on these cases, but drain plug is just not one of them.

If you use a torque wrench on every bolt that you can access, that's fine, but don't pull a straw man argument here with F1 teams.


ETIT: Porsche is not one of the F1 teams, and hasn't been since 1962

1st sentence.
Making assumptions about F1 teams and assunptions about what I have seen then trying to pass it of as a fact to try and ridicule me?

2nd sentence.
Volunteering yourself to be the voice for everybody, then making assumptions for everbody regarding not needing to use a torque wrench.

Straw man argument?????

Regarding Porsche in F1, you don't understand what is written.

How old are you???????