Thoughts on these "resurfaced" Rotors
- Thread starter jdw1222
- Start date
I have a set of ford flex rotors i want to take to oreillies to see how they will do them
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Site Donor 2025
It looks like either he forgot the spring dampener or he used the wrong sized adapter on the back I’ve done both before and it has been in various states of these results.
It depends on a few factors. The quality of the original rotor, driving habits, climate. I would not swap out an OEM Advics Toyota for an aftermarket unless it's EBC or something. No overt puslation or warping from the factory on a Toyota Matrix for 17 years, and it surivived a failed brake hose, excessive heat, etc without warping.
I probably was too slothful and never broke them free, so come time to replace them... the rust weld was brutally too great for the usual advised tools. So I bought junkyard knuckles from a California car on Ebay. Got new OEM rotors from a Dealer.
I'm not pushy, but the habitual "cheap rotor with every brake swap" some guys do here is a false economy imo because they're using poor quality cast iron to begin with. Get an Advics, and the rotor should not warp in a noticeable manner.
And most machine shops either. There’s good reason why Toyota and Honda only want an on-car lathe, they are worried about DTV and run-out outside of the hub being an influence.
I’ve pad slapped the Prius with OE pads. No issue. I’ve had to do a pad slap with Monroe pads when a set of Raybestos pads squealed and felt weird. No issues but it’s not best practice.
GM has been advocating not turning rotors during brake pad replacement. They say check the rotors for run out or any abnormal wear(including bluing, high spots or cracks) and send it.
I had a nearby Oreillys turn the front rotors on my 03 Accord a couple years ago, and they did a good job from what I could tell. No issues.
It's wild to me that a Prius would wear out the pads before needing rotor replacement. Guess it's that California weather keeping the rust away. My Prius had rust areas on the outer and inner edge bands of the rotor friction surface.
I would not have paid. And bought new rotors someplace else. I try and buy rotors on Amazon.
If the rotors look great then I would do a pad slap.
If the rotors look great then I would do a pad slap.
O'Reilly did a set of Z28 rotors a few years ago and while the surface was machine consistently the surface was very rough, like 80 grit sandpaper. I think they went too fast.
On a different note< We had our motorcycles at work 'pad slapped' without any consideration to replacing or even re machining the rotor(s). HD themselves said no rotor work was necessary. No problems with them ever. We replaced pads about every 7k miles or so. Front and rear both along with constantly flushing brake fluid as it would boil. Yep, even the front brakes would boil the fluid during a 'track day'. DOT3 fluid.
On a different note< We had our motorcycles at work 'pad slapped' without any consideration to replacing or even re machining the rotor(s). HD themselves said no rotor work was necessary. No problems with them ever. We replaced pads about every 7k miles or so. Front and rear both along with constantly flushing brake fluid as it would boil. Yep, even the front brakes would boil the fluid during a 'track day'. DOT3 fluid.
Too fast perhaps but even more likely is a dull or chipped cutting tool.
