Thoughts on oil to keep Dodge 2.7 L alive

[doitmyself]

Well, in spite of my recent post of 2.7 tips, my daughter's '04 Sebring 2.7 engine required a new water pump last week at 135,000 miles.

She wants to dump the POS car/engine in about 8 months after finishing nursing school. It runs well now and doesn't seem to be sludged. Current OCI is 3K on 5w30 conventional. She commented that it was 1.5 qts. low on the last change and the iffy boob guy said it was "burning oil"....unconfirmed by me.

I was wondering if an oil change type might be beneficial and was considering:

Valvoline MaxLife High Mileage oil in 5w30 (thicker) for it's supposed healing powers, or

PP synthetic, maybe for its better "oil burning" and cleaning capabilities. I am intrigued by the comments in a recent thread about oils to handle "burning".....thinner/higher HTHS is sometimes better. But, I cling to the myths about changing to synthetic this late in the game.

Or, stick with the tried and true 5w30 conventional.

Comments?

 

[vtb]

I've got the same engine in a Sebring. Lucky me, it's behaved itself so far (93K). Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 certainly seems to be helping my engine so far. Evidence of sludge cleaning when I drain oil.

Oil change can't hurt. I don't run the PP past 5K in my car. I have heard that you should avoid conventional oil in these motors because they are very hard on oil.

If you only need it for 8 more months, change the oil now and run it until she's out of school. You already replaced the water pump (which is known to leak into the oil, when it fails).

Find out where those 1.5 qts went!!! If Jiffy is always doing the changes, maybe they shorted it. Mine uses about a half quart in 5K.

 

[caravanmike]

first i hope you used a quality water pump since the water pump in this application is more important than other applications.

second point; i would stick with what you have been doing at 3k intervals.

why? because 2004 and up 2.7's have the revised tensioner and pvc system.

 

[SuperDave456]

I would try a High Mileage oil.
I just recently transferred over my Taurus to a Synthetic at 158,000 miles and I haven't seen any issues with it.

If you want try a Synthetic High Mileage oil. Valvoline makes both a synthetic blend and a full synthetic High Mileage oil, and Mobil makes a synthetic version in 10w30.

However I think your best bet is to just do what you have been doing. You are only going to keep the car 8 more months, and during that period of time you wont see a return on your investment with a synthetic.

 

[doitmyself]

FYI, I did a used oil analysis on the oil and Blackstone found NO coolant in the oil or excessive wear metals. This helped determine to go ahead with the repair.

I learned on the internet and talking to mechanics that the water pump design was changed and requires a whole new timing chain and components kit (ouch). Can't mix and match. Some mechanics said aftermarket old style pumps can be found, but at 135K, it was an iffy choice to keep the old components. Who knows.

Do synthetic HM's tend to have higher viscosity like the dino's (vs same grade dino)?

I still wonder if high vs. low vis. affects the oil "burning".

 

[addyguy]

Definetly try the Maxlife 5w30.

Very stout oil that may help with consumption.

 

[Shadowscraps]

"Iffy Boob"...!!! Ha Ha Ha...I'm going to be laughing about this all day now, thanks!!!

 

[IndyIan]

I like HDEO's. Here's a neat summary page of many that are available. HDEO list

A 0W30 HDEO should keep sludge to a minimum I'd think.

 

[lexus114]

Originally Posted By: Shadowscraps
"Iffy Boob"...!!! Ha Ha Ha...I'm going to be laughing about this all day now, thanks!!!




Yeah I know,I thought that was pretty funny as well.