This is why we don't buy Alternators at O'Reillys...

I bought a NipponDenso clone alternator from Autozone, 'Duralast gold', early this year. It was not much more money than rebuilt. Made in Malaysia. Delivered to doorstep in less than 24 hours of placing order.

I did not have the time or place or inclination to open up and inspect the failed 'lifetime warranty' alternator of a different design.

I work my externally regulated alternators hard, charging well depleted batteries with voltage I choose manually and watch the amperage flowing into depleted battery closely.

It was supposed to be 50 amps idle and 120 amps max.

It cannot meet that 120 amp rating, and when hot, it can make about 32 amps max, but a few hundred more rpm and it shoots up into the 80+ amp range. The failed alternator was indeed good for 50 at hot idle and 120 Max.

The alternator it replaced was a lifetime warranty unit bought from Kragen in 2004ish. I went through no less than 4 of those in 16 years, the most recent exchange in 2015. This most recent exchange, seemed to perform better at hot idle than previous ones.
O'reilly's, when I called them to get another one, claimed to have no record of me ever having bought an Alternator from them. I think after 5 or 6 free replacements, I got erased.

Since I realized it was not going to be warrantied, I opened it up to inspect a few weeks after installing the ND clone.

It failed, as the Brushes were not properly aligned with the slip rings, the lower brush just barely touching the top ring in in addition to the bottom one. When the brush bottomed out on that space between slip rings, it stopped charging.

Pics in this thread:

I realigned the brush holder, rehoned the VERY out of round slip rings, removed the thermal transfer blocking paint on underside of twin rectifier plates, Made fatter copper parallel AC straps, and returned it to service, as it performs better at hot idle than the ND clone, and seems a smidge or 3 better than before with better rectifier heatsinking to casing and fatter AC straps.

The New made in Malaysia Duralast NipponDenso clone is in its original box, on a shelf. They sell both a 50/120 version and a 40/90. If it was not able to max out @ 108 amps, I would say they were selling the 40/90 as a 50/120, due to poor hot idle speed output.

I suspect the stator windings are a bit short of copper compared to An Authentic Nippon Denso. 108 amps was the max at about 2400 engine rpm and plenty of load.

It works, I was just hoping for the opposite of what happened. Its output is quite good from ~800 to 1300 engine rpm, but my other alternator is able to produce more amperage outside that rpm range.

I thought the dual internal fans would help its hot idle speed amperage output compared to the previous designs one pully mounted external fan, but that failed to materialize, and a smaller dual V belt pulley would have to be machined, so the older reman is back in place.

I removed the ND clone's back cover, voiding warranty, to see if there was anything easily improved like on the other alternator, regarding reducing resistance and improve thermal transfer from diodes, but saw nothing that could easily be accomplished, and put it back together.

So the New alternators, that are not much more expensive than Reman, are, in my limited experience, built to a lesser standard. Copper is expensive and there is supposed to be a lot of copper in the stator.
Acceptable performance, if I were not requiring maximum output often. I bet 99% of people would never notice its lack of performance, unless they were idling excessively with All dc loads on , and a well depleted healthy battery , and notice battery voltage dropping and dropping.

I bet this can occur with many vehicles with OEM alternators. Hot Idle speed output, with a heat soaked alternator, is likely unimpressive, and perhaps inadequate if ALL the possible DC loads are turned on while idling. But ti would likely take 10 hours of idling to fully depleted the battery, so really of little consequence.
While I do believe that you should carefully read the terms of the Limited Lifetime Warranty on those kragen/O'Reilly alternators and I suspect whatever you are doing with them falls outside of the warranty there is NO way for a typical in-store O'Reilly employee to erase anything from the old Kragen database, at least that I know of. Obviously the first time it's warrantied after becoming O'Reilly in theory we could have changed the phone number on your account to get rid of you it's not that simple and with some effort your warranty could have been found especially after 5-6 replacements. Clearly there is more to this story. I am not defending O'Reilly or any parts store. It's just that stories like this go to show that when you hear "Company X sells crap and doesn't stand behind their products" it's simply NOT always true.
 
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While I do believe that you should carefully read the terms of the Limited Lifetime Warranty on those kragen/O'Reilly alternators and I suspect whatever you are doing with them falls outside of the warranty there is NO way for a typical in-store O'Reilly employee to erase anything from the old Kragen database, ...snip

Honestly, I know I work alternators hard. I intend to, and the drive belts as well.
I felt I got more than enough free replacements over the many years since the initial purchase.

I did not pursue it beyond the one phone call to a store on the opposite side of the country from where I got all my other units replaced.



The 'lifetime' warranty kept me from opening them up, and figuring things out.

Released from that restriction, I learned a lot, fixed it, spit and polished it, returned it to service, and the alternator is working as well as can be expected, and I am totally confident in it for a lot longer, and know how to fix it, or best replace it when that time comes and have a capable back up on the shelf, perhaps to be a second alternator on my engine in the future, sharing the load.

Right now have work installing a Leece Neville large frame behemoth onto a huge marine Diesel, and more related work.
Perhaps I would not have this work, if Oreilly's handed me another free alternator, of dubious rebuilt quality.

Still doing business with Oreilley, I should have kept store name out of it, they've done me no wrong in my book.
 
No love for the Belkin brand?

If I ever can't find OE or OEM.. Belkin stuff (NAPA electrical) always comes to mind. It costs more but I always thought it to be good stuff. Quality.

Something happened?

I think you mean Belden? NAPA doesn't have much of a quality advantage anymore regardless of the line. Sometimes you can find gems in the Altrom line (Koyo bearings and such), but mostly they source the same garbage as everyone else.

I don't trust any reman alternator. A Denso reman I bought for my 02 Ranger failed after about two years and 30K miles. I replaced it with a new (not reman) O'Reilly's one and that seems to be doing fine over a year later, we'll see if it lasts. Hopefully it will have decent lifespan. Output is better than the Denso reman ever had.
 
It really depends on price point, there are a few rebuilders that sell most of these. The Retailer sets a price point for a 1 or 2 year piece and a lifetime piece. The more expensive piece will have all new (albeit Chinese) parts in them. The cheap piece is cleaned and repaired sent back out. Usually bearings and Brush's at a minimum.
 
Ask me how grateful I am for the 3rd generation starter/alternator rebuild shop 5 miles away.

I've shown up on my bicycle with my alternator in a bag; much to their entertainment.

Like places that rebuild carburetors and do shoe repair the shops that rebuild starters/alternators are becoming few and far between. One of the shops near me only did big units for bulldozers, etc. Not cars. But it closed when the owner passed away.
 
JohnnyG said:
Somebody please tell me how you "repack" a sealed bearing with OEM spec grease.
You remove the seals, clean out the old grease, regrease, and install new seals. Grease type isn't all that critical if you stay within grade.

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Seems to me it would be cheaper and faster just to replace the entire bearing. I suppose bearing manufacturers sell just the seals? I've never seen that before either.
 
Seems to me it would be cheaper and faster just to replace the entire bearing
Labor where this work is done is cheap. Combination of new seals and cheap labor is obviously less than the cost of a bearing. Plus, if the shaft alignment is kept within spec, bearings can last a very, very long time. They really only wear out due to misalignment, etc.
 
When he rebuilds an alternator you get one that has been rebuilt to new specs. He gets A LOT of business.
Sadly, the majority of people won't wait 2-3 days for a rebuild. It's too easy for a repair shop to diagnose a bad alternator and have a replacement in their hands within 2-3 hours and then complete the job, often the same day.

Also, if I took my car to a repair shop, they tell me the alternator is bad, how many will even consider or offer a rebuild option with a local shop ? The customer would have to request this I'm sure. The shop wants the repair done now though so they get paid, not sit on the car for a couple days for a relatively simple repair.

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And sorry if this sounds like a dumb question, but how 'generic' are alternators in that these typical rebuild shops will have the necessary components on hand or readily available ? I mean, bearings are standardized, it's just making sure you've got the right ID, OD, width, etc and hopefully local bearing suppliers have good stock they can get from if needed. What about the other bits ?
 
Sadly, the majority of people won't wait 2-3 days for a rebuild. It's too easy for a repair shop to diagnose a bad alternator and have a replacement in their hands within 2-3 hours and then complete the job, often the same day.

Also, if I took my car to a repair shop, they tell me the alternator is bad, how many will even consider or offer a rebuild option with a local shop ? The customer would have to request this I'm sure. The shop wants the repair done now though so they get paid, not sit on the car for a couple days for a relatively simple repair.

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And sorry if this sounds like a dumb question, but how 'generic' are alternators in that these typical rebuild shops will have the necessary components on hand or readily available ? I mean, bearings are standardized, it's just making sure you've got the right ID, OD, width, etc and hopefully local bearing suppliers have good stock they can get from if needed. What about the other bits ?
He has a 1/2 to 1 day turnaround on most vehicles. 3 of his sons work with/for him. He is always very busy.
My dad used to own a 94 Lincoln Continental and the alternator went out. He took it Mikes shop in the morning and it was ready that afternoon. He puts a 180 day warranty on them.
 
The OEM one in my Liberty went bad at like 140 or 150k miles. Got a junkyard one with 60k on it, for $30 or something. Worked fine, until I was on a ski trip and it died. Had about 192k on the Jeep then. Was in a small town, only had a Napa and they only had the rebuilt one available next day, so spent the night and swapped it out next morning in the parking lot. Still running the Napa reman now nearly 2 years later at 214k, seems okay, time will tell. I would've preferred OEM but didn't have that choice. Easy to replace on that Jeep tho.
 
I wish we had a place like that here but unfortunately they went out of business some years ago. There isn't much DIY going on in this area anymore, a few parts changers that's it. Quality parts are a bit hard to get, lots of low level Chicom stuff though.
 
While anecdotal evidence can be useful, as to rebuild quality, it can also be very misleading, as two identical reman'd alternators on teh shelf could have been sent to be rebuilt, having very different issues, one the brushes were worn, slip rings nearly worn away, and the other the voltage regulator fried, but all else was still good to go.

Looks like replacing the slip rings is a tedious chore with all sorts of areas that can go wrong, or be achieved, but barely acceptable. Once over 4 amps of field current is sent to rotor, it fails.

Slapping in a new voltage regulator is can be a 10 minute ordeal.

Both get cleaned an inspection sticker, extra special marketing and sold to the next person who needs it.

The trusted local rebuilder seems the best option, when one is not in a rush.

The rebuilt ones can be very hit or miss, and how hard an alternator is worked will have a huge effect on its longevity.

The guy that Idles parked to recharge the battery that was left to discharge to dead will have an alternator twice as hot as the guy that goes for a highway drive.

Underhood airflow has huge effects on alternator temperature, and temperature has huge effects on their lifespans.

So driver A's 150K miles, can be equivalent to driver B's 10k miles.

Buying a reman you do not know which one you are getting and what was replaced, that which was broken as well as that which might soon wear out, or just the broke part?

Maximum profit always, everything else is unimportant, is today's mantra. With everybody wanting as cheap as possible, cutting corners where ever possible, is likely.

Spending more $$ on marketing has proven more profitable, than more $$ on achieving quality.

Even those willing to spend extra for quality, are suspicious they are getting the same product with a different box and price tag.

If a product develops legendary internet status, they cash out, cut quality to maximize profit, and ride that reputation for however long it lasts.

And it lasts for a long time, as internet Joe read it once, experienced it once, many years ago, and each year it becomes more hardened as absolute fact, especially when internet Jane gives it a thumbs up.
 
I got sick of remanufactured alternators and starters years ago.

I take all mine to a small alternator shop in Tarpon Springs. Usually under $100 and it’s rebuilt with quality parts and tested by a guy who actually knows what he’s doing.
 
Except for this car which had to go back into service, when I need to rebuild an alternator I get parts from Romaine Electric (they have places around the country, not just locally here and they do a lot of mail order:


I have never had an issue with one I rebuilt with their parts (n=~4). This was the one time I bought off the shelf recently and had the car long enough to see the quality.
 
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