Thinking of Changing My Oil Choice

Shel_B

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The vehicle is a 2011 Camry 4-cyl with about 81K on the clock. Bought it in August to replace my totalled Buick, and could see that, at least some maintenance, including oil changes, had been neglected. The car had 77,000 miles on it at the time.

I've done three changes using a blend of 0W-20 and 5W30 M1EP. The car uses very little oil ... 8oz in 3,000 miles on one change and zero noticeable use on the next 800 miles which included more than 500 miles of highway miles. I drive conservatively. I feel the engine is solid.

I've been toying with the idea of using an oil like ESP (0w-30 or 5W-30) which has a higher HTHS and somewhat thicker viscosity, but I don't know if it's really necessary. I want excellent engine protection and maybe ESP (or an A3/B4 or VS 504) can provide better protection than what I'm using now. Much of my driving is low speed, short trips around town, with an occasional long highway trip (more than 100 miles). I'm thinking that M1EP 5w-30 is more than adequate, and that the ESP may be a bit more than is needed. Plus, I'm wondering if the ESP might cut into my fuel economy.

Any thoughts on this? I'm inclined to stay with M1EP 5W-30, but would there be any real world benefit to moving to something like ESP, etc. Oh, BTW, I usually run a 6-month +/- OCI.
 
I made the change to ESP and plan on sticking with it. I think it will serve you well, and it is at the "thicker" end of the Xw-30 grade oils, if that's what you're after.
 
My thoughts? I think you're over-thinking the crap out of this. Go by the maintenance minder and use a name-brand oil in the correct weight the manual specifies and forget about it. Your Camry will never notice the difference between the oil specs you list and will live forever anyway.
 
I've been toying with the idea of using an oil like ESP (0w-30 or 5W-30) which has a higher HTHS and somewhat thicker viscosity, but I don't know if it's really necessary.
You could use the finest most expensive oil on the shelf, but if in one year it get totaled like the Buick, it would have been for naught. Any good synthetic that's on sale is fine.
 
Looking for something with higher detergent a good castrol gtx 5w30 or 5w20 should work
 
The vehicle is a 2011 Camry 4-cyl with about 81K on the clock. Bought it in August to replace my totalled Buick, and could see that, at least some maintenance, including oil changes, had been neglected. The car had 77,000 miles on it at the time.
Any of the oils from one of the majors with the proper ratings will serve the engine well.
 
I don't see any reason in using Mobil1 ESP, I can't see the benefits of using a Low SAPS oil in a MPFI engine that doesn't consume much oil, if what you're doing works keep up with it, I see know reason to change and a resource conserving 5W30 should be more than thick enough, so many of these engines last forever on Toyota's recommended Xw20 that probably doesn't get changed as often as you change your oil, If you're using EP, I'd probably run it a year instead of 6 months sounds like you drive less than 10k a year, if you're gonna dump it every 6 months with less than 5k on it just use supertech or whatever you can get off the clearance rack for cheap.
 
M1 EP is a little overkill. Does the manual recommend 5w-30?
0W-20 is what's required, although the only requirement is ILSAC multi-grade oil, so 5w-30 ILSAC oil can be used since ILSAC is all that's required and it permits the usage of thicker oil under heavier loads, although the warranty is up so it's not like that matters much anymore. I think any 5w-30 synthetic ISLAC/API-RC oil would be a good choice, no reason to use high HTHS Euro oil or low SAPS oils.
 
Question about ESP...how does it help the emission system? If phosphorus and zinc poison the cat, this formula has some of the highest levels of both.
 
Question about ESP...how does it help the emission system? If phosphorus and zinc poison the cat, this formula has some of the highest levels of both.
Because it's about the sulfated ash and it's more about protecting DPFs and GPFs not cats in gasoline engines.
 
Because it's about the sulfated ash and it's more about protecting DPFs and GPFs not cats in gasoline engines.
Thanks. Is the oil more marketing gimmick or is there data to show that it actually prevents clogging of these filters?
 
Thanks. Is the oil more marketing gimmick or is there data to show that it actually prevents clogging of these filters?
It's a well known issue that High SAPS oils heavily contribute to DPF clogging and excessive regens, hence why CJ-4 and CK-4 limit sulfated ash to 1% whereas older diesel oils back when higher sulfur diesel was in use and without dpfs created much higher sulfated ash generally.
 
The vehicle is a 2011 Camry 4-cyl with about 81K on the clock. Bought it in August to replace my totalled Buick, and could see that, at least some maintenance, including oil changes, had been neglected. The car had 77,000 miles on it at the time.

I've done three changes using a blend of 0W-20 and 5W30 M1EP. The car uses very little oil ... 8oz in 3,000 miles on one change and zero noticeable use on the next 800 miles which included more than 500 miles of highway miles. I drive conservatively. I feel the engine is solid.

I've been toying with the idea of using an oil like ESP (0w-30 or 5W-30) which has a higher HTHS and somewhat thicker viscosity, but I don't know if it's really necessary. I want excellent engine protection and maybe ESP (or an A3/B4 or VS 504) can provide better protection than what I'm using now. Much of my driving is low speed, short trips around town, with an occasional long highway trip (more than 100 miles). I'm thinking that M1EP 5w-30 is more than adequate, and that the ESP may be a bit more than is needed. Plus, I'm wondering if the ESP might cut into my fuel economy.

Any thoughts on this? I'm inclined to stay with M1EP 5W-30, but would there be any real world benefit to moving to something like ESP, etc. Oh, BTW, I usually run a 6-month +/- OCI.
No real benefit in using ESP. Just a name brand 5w30 and you're good to go. You're located in Northern Cal. aren't you? One oil and filter change per year should be suitable. Don't complicate it by thinking of other oils.
 
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