I've been looking for a car recently and wanted a sedan with a manual transmission. I found a nice looking 2003 BMW 530i with a 5 speed and 88,000 miles. Clean carfax and after tax and title the car would be just under $9k. Anything I need to look out for, or any pro's/con's to this year BMW? I like that it doesn't have I-drive and I also prefer the body style to the later ones.
Thinking about buying a 2003 530i. Any thoughts?
- Thread starter nwjones18
- Start date
- Status
I like that style too. Not sure how important performance is to you, but a 540i with the manual transmission can be a real tire-smoker.
If this is your first German car, open your wallet wide -- they are not cheap to take care of.
If this is your first German car, open your wallet wide -- they are not cheap to take care of.
Originally Posted By: dparm
If this is your first German car, open your wallet wide -- they are not cheap to take care of.
+1 That's the thing to look out for / be aware of. My buddy as a 2001 7-series and it cost him $1000 for a new alternator last winter, installed by a reputable indy that specializes in German cars.
If this is your first German car, open your wallet wide -- they are not cheap to take care of.
+1 That's the thing to look out for / be aware of. My buddy as a 2001 7-series and it cost him $1000 for a new alternator last winter, installed by a reputable indy that specializes in German cars.
Find a good independent repair shop, it'll save you about 50% on labor costs.
Originally Posted By: dparm
Find a good independent repair shop, it'll save you about 50% on labor costs.
+1, and buy parts online will save you a bundle too.
Find a good independent repair shop, it'll save you about 50% on labor costs.
+1, and buy parts online will save you a bundle too.
I have heard about the repair cost, and I understand that on somethings there is no other choice but to go to the dealer, but the cost of the parts themselves isn't that bad. I do most of my own work on my cars, and prices for normal things like alternators, water pumps, shocks/struts, belts/hoses and brakes seem to be reasonable and widely available for this car. That is part of the reason I want one that was a few years old and a I6/manual car. A 'simple' BMW that I can do most of the work on myself, but is still a lot of fun to drive.
Nice car. Not as simple as you would think due to complex electonics.
I would expect the powertrain to be pretty reliable if it has been maintained.
I would expect the powertrain to be pretty reliable if it has been maintained.
Sounds like you're an informed consumer. Go for it.
I have a 2000 528i with a 5 speed manual and the M sport package that I bought when it was 3 years old. It's been a very reliable car.
I do some of the maintenance myself. Oil changes are a piece of cake but I needed some tools (a 36 mm socket to take off the oil filter cap) and ramps (can't get at the oil plug without them). I use a torque wrench to tighten the oil plug. They're designed to crack and leak if you over tighten them (makes sense as the oil pan is cast aluminum and would cost a fortune to replace).
I change the oil half way through the recommended interval. I use GC - which meets BMW specs and is readily available.
I agree with finding a BMW specialist. And get the Bentley Manuals.
The 3.0 is supposed to get better mileage and have a bit more power than the 2.8. Some 3.0s are said the use more oil than you'd like. My 2.8 uses none.
I get 32 - 36 MPG on a trip (for Imperial gallons, which converts to 27 - 30 MPG for US gallons).
Ecotourist
I do some of the maintenance myself. Oil changes are a piece of cake but I needed some tools (a 36 mm socket to take off the oil filter cap) and ramps (can't get at the oil plug without them). I use a torque wrench to tighten the oil plug. They're designed to crack and leak if you over tighten them (makes sense as the oil pan is cast aluminum and would cost a fortune to replace).
I change the oil half way through the recommended interval. I use GC - which meets BMW specs and is readily available.
I agree with finding a BMW specialist. And get the Bentley Manuals.
The 3.0 is supposed to get better mileage and have a bit more power than the 2.8. Some 3.0s are said the use more oil than you'd like. My 2.8 uses none.
I get 32 - 36 MPG on a trip (for Imperial gallons, which converts to 27 - 30 MPG for US gallons).
Ecotourist
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: dparm
Find a good independent repair shop, it'll save you about 50% on labor costs.
+1, and buy parts online will save you a bundle too.
Bringing your bimmer to the dealer is what owning the marque is all about.
Originally Posted By: dparm
Find a good independent repair shop, it'll save you about 50% on labor costs.
+1, and buy parts online will save you a bundle too.
Bringing your bimmer to the dealer is what owning the marque is all about.
Originally Posted By: nwjones18
Anything I need to look out for, or any pro's/con's to this year BMW?
As with many BMWs of that era, cooling system is the weak spot (all plastic). And by the time you realize something is wrong by looking at the coolant temp gauge migrating to the right, it is usually too late and serious engine damage may have been done. Hence, many people preventatively overhaul the entire cooling system. Given the mileage, I would do this on your car ASAP if it hasn't been done already. My 530i has 70k miles and I caught mine in time (expansion tank shot plus previous other coolant leaks). Just had it all overhauled ($1100 parts and labor). Hopefully I'm good to go for another 60-70k miles. Alas, don't expect Toyota/Honda type reliability with these cars. Seems like I constantly do something on mine, whether preventative or not.
And if I was to do it again, I'd probably get a 540i instead.
Also, whichever one you go for, make sure it has the sports suspension - it tightens up handling a bit so it doesn't feel too much like a boat. Of course, if you find one without sport suspension in great condition, you can always put in aftermarket sport susp, too.
Anything I need to look out for, or any pro's/con's to this year BMW?
As with many BMWs of that era, cooling system is the weak spot (all plastic). And by the time you realize something is wrong by looking at the coolant temp gauge migrating to the right, it is usually too late and serious engine damage may have been done. Hence, many people preventatively overhaul the entire cooling system. Given the mileage, I would do this on your car ASAP if it hasn't been done already. My 530i has 70k miles and I caught mine in time (expansion tank shot plus previous other coolant leaks). Just had it all overhauled ($1100 parts and labor). Hopefully I'm good to go for another 60-70k miles. Alas, don't expect Toyota/Honda type reliability with these cars. Seems like I constantly do something on mine, whether preventative or not.
And if I was to do it again, I'd probably get a 540i instead.
Also, whichever one you go for, make sure it has the sports suspension - it tightens up handling a bit so it doesn't feel too much like a boat. Of course, if you find one without sport suspension in great condition, you can always put in aftermarket sport susp, too.
Last edited:
Sports seats alone make it worth getting the sports package, IMO.
Originally Posted By: 97tbird
Sports seats alone make it worth getting the sports package, IMO.
Yup. And a nicer steering wheel.
Sports seats alone make it worth getting the sports package, IMO.
Yup. And a nicer steering wheel.
They're right about the sports package. I think it makes the car. Mine has (the previous generation) 2 part M5 wheels, sports seats, a 3-spoke steering wheel, sports suspension and moderate aero effects. It looks better than the non-sport version and it handles pretty well.
I also have Xenon headlights.
As Quattro Pete says, watch the cooling system. That seems to be a weak area, though seemingly more so for the 540i.
You might want to do some reading on http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/e39/
Ecotourist
I also have Xenon headlights.
As Quattro Pete says, watch the cooling system. That seems to be a weak area, though seemingly more so for the 540i.
You might want to do some reading on http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/e39/
Ecotourist
Join the E39 Yahoo group. The members have access to a lot of good information. Ditto for BMW Tips. I'd also advise joining the BMW Car Club of America; many dealers, indie shops, and vendors offer significant club discounts.
The E39 is an outstanding car; I'd gladly buy another were it not for the fact that I want a smaller and lighter Bimmer to serve as my next track toy(once I flip the Mazda). That said, I still might end up with an E39 M5 ...
The E39 is an outstanding car; I'd gladly buy another were it not for the fact that I want a smaller and lighter Bimmer to serve as my next track toy(once I flip the Mazda). That said, I still might end up with an E39 M5 ...
Thanks a lot for all the info! The only thing holding me up is that the car is over 600 miles away, but I've been having no luck finding a 530 with a manual locally. Sounds like I'd need to go ahead and change the thermostat, radiator and water pump as I've read about them being common problems elsewhere. Thankfully they are all fairly cheap if you do it yourself. I'll let you all know what I end up doing.
Originally Posted By: nwjones18
but I've been having no luck finding a 530 with a manual locally.
Yeah, 530i manual is relatively rare. It's much easier to find 540i with manual trans. The funny thing is, on the hwy, both get similar gas mileage. 530i does get slightly better gas mileage around town though.
It took me 3 months to find my 530i manual, and I still had to drive 250 miles to get it.
Quote:
Sounds like I'd need to go ahead and change the thermostat, radiator and water pump as I've read about them being common problems elsewhere.
Add coolant expansion tank and all the associated hoses to the list. And once you're there, you might as well change all the belts and tensioners, too. My belts were showing lots of cracks already.
Here's the list of parts I replaced:
11281433571 Accessory Belt Tensioner Assembly; AC Compressor Belt
11281738605 Idler Pulley/Roller
11281748131 Accessory Belt Tensioner Pulley/Roller; Alternator and/or AC Belt
11287838797 Accessory Belt Tensioner Assembly; Hydraulic Type
11511436590URO Water Pump Pulley; 132mm; Black Anodized Aluminum
11517527910 Water Pump; Original Type With Composite Impeller
11521712058 Fan Blade; 420mm 11 Blade
11527505302 Fan Clutch; Screw-On
11531705223 Radiator Hose; Upper with Bleeder Screw Fitting
11531705224 Radiator Hose; Lower with Temperature Sensor Fitting
11537509227 Thermostat; Thermostat Kit with Housing and Seal, 97 Degrees C
17111427156 Radiator Hose; Vent Hose from Radiator to Expansion Tank
17111436060 Radiator
17111436381 Expansion Tank/Coolant Reservoir
17111712788AFT Coolant Bleeder Screw; Brass; At Expansion Tank/Radiator; With O-Ring
17111742231 Radiator Cap/Expansion Tank Cap; 2.0 Bar
5PK0863 Serpentine Belt/Ribbed Drive Belt; AC Compressor
6PK1538 Serpentine Belt/Ribbed Drive Belt; Alternator/Power Steering/Water Pump
but I've been having no luck finding a 530 with a manual locally.
Yeah, 530i manual is relatively rare. It's much easier to find 540i with manual trans. The funny thing is, on the hwy, both get similar gas mileage. 530i does get slightly better gas mileage around town though.
It took me 3 months to find my 530i manual, and I still had to drive 250 miles to get it.
Quote:
Sounds like I'd need to go ahead and change the thermostat, radiator and water pump as I've read about them being common problems elsewhere.
Add coolant expansion tank and all the associated hoses to the list. And once you're there, you might as well change all the belts and tensioners, too. My belts were showing lots of cracks already.
Here's the list of parts I replaced:
11281433571 Accessory Belt Tensioner Assembly; AC Compressor Belt
11281738605 Idler Pulley/Roller
11281748131 Accessory Belt Tensioner Pulley/Roller; Alternator and/or AC Belt
11287838797 Accessory Belt Tensioner Assembly; Hydraulic Type
11511436590URO Water Pump Pulley; 132mm; Black Anodized Aluminum
11517527910 Water Pump; Original Type With Composite Impeller
11521712058 Fan Blade; 420mm 11 Blade
11527505302 Fan Clutch; Screw-On
11531705223 Radiator Hose; Upper with Bleeder Screw Fitting
11531705224 Radiator Hose; Lower with Temperature Sensor Fitting
11537509227 Thermostat; Thermostat Kit with Housing and Seal, 97 Degrees C
17111427156 Radiator Hose; Vent Hose from Radiator to Expansion Tank
17111436060 Radiator
17111436381 Expansion Tank/Coolant Reservoir
17111712788AFT Coolant Bleeder Screw; Brass; At Expansion Tank/Radiator; With O-Ring
17111742231 Radiator Cap/Expansion Tank Cap; 2.0 Bar
5PK0863 Serpentine Belt/Ribbed Drive Belt; AC Compressor
6PK1538 Serpentine Belt/Ribbed Drive Belt; Alternator/Power Steering/Water Pump
- Status
