In my accord I’d like to stick with 0w20 for warranty purposes but would also like to go on the heavier side. In terms of off the shelf Dexos 1 gen 2, what is the thickest 0w20 out there, at operating temps? Appreciate the help, as always.
Thickest 0w20?
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Originally Posted By: danez_yoda
Magnetec
Sure was after just 3k in a 3.6L Pentastar … Looked like 50w240 and coal black …
Magnetec
Sure was after just 3k in a 3.6L Pentastar … Looked like 50w240 and coal black …
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Your engine won’t know the difference. Look at M1 EP. The 0w20 has a majority PAO base. Valvoline Modern Engine would be another choice and you could take advantage of the $15 rebate on a 5 qt jug.
^^^^^^^^^
+1
Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0w20.
Your engine won’t know the difference. Look at M1 EP. The 0w20 has a majority PAO base. Valvoline Modern Engine would be another choice and you could take advantage of the $15 rebate on a 5 qt jug.
^^^^^^^^^
+1
Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0w20.
The cST @ 100 C range for 0w20 is either 6 to 9.7 or 7 to 10.5. Black stone listed both on two different VOA’s. Must have been , a typo on one. Everyone look for a 10.5!
Super Tech High Mileage. 8.86
Royal Purple 8.6
Super Tech High Mileage. 8.86
Royal Purple 8.6
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Mobil 1 HM is 9.0
If you want, you could purchase 0w20, keep all the receipts, either for DIY changes or the stealership, and then give it a shot of STP to bring the kinematic viscosity to 10.5, still within the range of 0W20. Sounds anal but doable.
Use 5w30 until it goes in for warranty work, at which point you change it for any 20
Originally Posted By: Olas
Use 5w30 until it goes in for warranty work, at which point you change it for any 20
What? How would anyone at the dealership be able to tell 5w-30 is in the engine and not 0w-20? Not like someone is going to look at the dip stick and say that must be 5w-30 and then order a UOA. The only way of “checking” is from receipts provided by the owner.
Use 5w30 until it goes in for warranty work, at which point you change it for any 20
What? How would anyone at the dealership be able to tell 5w-30 is in the engine and not 0w-20? Not like someone is going to look at the dip stick and say that must be 5w-30 and then order a UOA. The only way of “checking” is from receipts provided by the owner.
Originally Posted By: Snagglefoot
If you want, you could purchase 0w20, keep all the receipts, either for DIY changes or the stealership, and then give it a shot of STP to bring the kinematic viscosity to 10.5, still within the range of 0W20. Sounds anal but doable.
Or buy the cheapest in-spec 0w-20 for the receipt and then put whatever he likes in. Want thicker? Go 0w-30 or 5w-30...
If you want, you could purchase 0w20, keep all the receipts, either for DIY changes or the stealership, and then give it a shot of STP to bring the kinematic viscosity to 10.5, still within the range of 0W20. Sounds anal but doable.
Or buy the cheapest in-spec 0w-20 for the receipt and then put whatever he likes in. Want thicker? Go 0w-30 or 5w-30...
Originally Posted By: PWMDMD
Originally Posted By: Snagglefoot
If you want, you could purchase 0w20, keep all the receipts, either for DIY changes or the stealership, and then give it a shot of STP to bring the kinematic viscosity to 10.5, still within the range of 0W20. Sounds anal but doable.
Or buy the cheapest in-spec 0w-20 for the receipt and then put whatever he likes in. Want thicker? Go 0w-30 or 5w-30...
Go on Walmart.com or Amazon, purchased the correct stuff. Print Receipt. Then cancel the order... They'll never know!
Originally Posted By: Snagglefoot
If you want, you could purchase 0w20, keep all the receipts, either for DIY changes or the stealership, and then give it a shot of STP to bring the kinematic viscosity to 10.5, still within the range of 0W20. Sounds anal but doable.
Or buy the cheapest in-spec 0w-20 for the receipt and then put whatever he likes in. Want thicker? Go 0w-30 or 5w-30...
Go on Walmart.com or Amazon, purchased the correct stuff. Print Receipt. Then cancel the order... They'll never know!
Originally Posted By: Oildudeny
Don't believe it charts and numbers. 0w20 is 0w20 5w30 is 5w30.. How the oil chemically reacts in your engine will be different in someone else's engine.
????
please explain what you mean by chemically reacts, and your grade definition.
OP...there's a Volvo spec, can't quote it off the top of my head) that requires an HTHS of 2.75 minimum...it's a 0W20, and is "half way" to the min spec for a 30 (LOL, or a 0W40 ten years ago)...might suit your needs.
Don't believe it charts and numbers. 0w20 is 0w20 5w30 is 5w30.. How the oil chemically reacts in your engine will be different in someone else's engine.
????
please explain what you mean by chemically reacts, and your grade definition.
OP...there's a Volvo spec, can't quote it off the top of my head) that requires an HTHS of 2.75 minimum...it's a 0W20, and is "half way" to the min spec for a 30 (LOL, or a 0W40 ten years ago)...might suit your needs.
Originally Posted By: tig1
M1 0-20 in AFE and EP has been a great performer in my last 3 Ford engines with some 460K using this oil.
And this is the best piece of info; no conjecture, just direct experience.
M1 0-20 in AFE and EP has been a great performer in my last 3 Ford engines with some 460K using this oil.
And this is the best piece of info; no conjecture, just direct experience.
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