Originally Posted by OilReport99
Don't cut corners and go full 20W-50. Used it a lot in my old 4.0 L to make it run "smoother". Good luck.
Thicker oil in my Jeep.
- Thread starter Micahmcmeen
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You're in Florida he's in upstate NY. Good luck starting at -40 with that oil. 5W-50 would be my choice.
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by OilReport99
Don't cut corners and go full 20W-50. Used it a lot in my old 4.0 L to make it run "smoother". Good luck.
Originally Posted by sloinker
Might be time to change the bearings in the bottom end. May also be time to change the valve seals. This can be done cheaply and saves the cost of an actual rebuild for now.
I have the same engine, just in a Ram 1500. Over 200k miles and running 0w20 HM. Are you sure it is an oil burning issue and not a leak?
I once had a small valve cover leak that I initially though was the motor starting to burn oil. It was in the very back where I couldn't see it without looking. I would imagine the O2 sensors wouldn't be happy if you were burning a significant amount of oil.
Be wary of using too thick of an oil before identifying the exact issue. Part of why this engine calls for a 20 weight has to do with close bearing clearances (sub-0.002, and individually matched for that block. My 3.7 probably has a slightly different combination of bearings than yours. They are all the same "size" for every engine, but there are slightly different sets for each position depending on that block's machining), and the rather "hard" material the bearings are made out of. At 180k the clearances are likely big enough for a 30wt, but I wouldn't jump to 50wt right off the bat. Work up to that if the thicker oil bandaid is needed. Better to burn a little oil, than risk oiling issues by going too thick.
I would recommend trying a high mileage oil in 5w30 or 10w30. Maxlife is usually affordable and widely available. Keep in mind, if your 3.7L is burning oil, it's going to be a permanent issue due to some internal engine wear (like piston rings) that can only be fixed by a complete rebuild. Oil manufacturers design high mileage oils to slow down burning and leaking - not to actually fix the underlining issue.
Use an aftermarket product specific to oil burning.
Originally Posted by Sleepeyes
I have the same engine, just in a Ram 1500. Over 200k miles and running 0w20 HM. Are you sure it is an oil burning issue and not a leak?
I once had a small valve cover leak that I initially though was the motor starting to burn oil. It was in the very back where I couldn't see it without looking. I would imagine the O2 sensors wouldn't be happy if you were burning a significant amount of oil.
Be wary of using too thick of an oil before identifying the exact issue. Part of why this engine calls for a 20 weight has to do with close bearing clearances (sub-0.002, and individually matched for that block. My 3.7 probably has a slightly different combination of bearings than yours. They are all the same "size" for every engine, but there are slightly different sets for each position depending on that block's machining), and the rather "hard" material the bearings are made out of. At 180k the clearances are likely big enough for a 30wt, but I wouldn't jump to 50wt right off the bat. Work up to that if the thicker oil bandaid is needed. Better to burn a little oil, than risk oiling issues by going too thick.
Originally Posted by Sleepeyes
Be wary of using too thick of an oil before identifying the exact issue. Part of why this engine calls for a 20 weight has to do with close bearing clearances
Originally Posted by Micahmcmeen
I've been considering running a thicker oil in my jeep to help with burning and to help it run smoother. I am just very hesitant to do so but I have added lucas to it in the past and it did help with the oil burning. I understand lucas is "snake oil" and has almost no additives and is changing my viscosity and weight anyways. It take 5w20 currently. I used to put about a 1/4 a quart of the lucas in. What viscosity and weight do you think that would make it after that?
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by Micahmcmeen
Yeah, the purpose of that thread was something different. If you don't have anything to add please don't comment. If my posts bother you then don't look at them. A lot of people are stuck at home right now. I know I've gotten on here more than once for some sort of entertainment. Might as well post something to keep others entertained too.
Who is it I thank for the entertainment ?
I'm an admin on one of the largest Liberty forums... so I see a lot of 3.7s (including the one of my own 212k on it). They were designed to run 5W30, but in 2007 spec'd 5W20 for CAFE standards. Almost everyone on the forum runs 5W30 and we see many with over 300k on them. And skip the Lucas junk. These really aren't known to burn oil, I've seen a few, but it's pretty rare. You're leaking from the valve cover gaskets and oil pressure sender most likely.
Originally Posted by kschachn
Or on the other hand, are you one of these posters that never actually takes any of the advice and applies it (as in buying and using an oil) instead just perpetually ask questions?
Originally Posted by HoosierJeeper
I'm an admin on one of the largest Liberty forums... so I see a lot of 3.7s (including the one of my own 212k on it). They were designed to run 5W30, but in 2007 spec'd 5W20 for CAFE standards. Almost everyone on the forum runs 5W30 and we see many with over 300k on them. And skip the Lucas junk. These really aren't known to burn oil, I've seen a few, but it's pretty rare. You're leaking from the valve cover gaskets and oil pressure sender most likely.
I was having the same question about my 2016 JK Wrangler's 3.6 Pentastar. It specs 5W-20, and it's still under warranty, so I've been running that ---- BUT
I'm long beyond old school - my first car was a 1952 Packard with a straight 8-cylinder engine that used SAE 40. Straight 30W and 40W oils became accepted standard in my cars from the early 1960s. Funky new oils, like 10W-30 and 10W-40 took a while to warm up to. 1970s were 10W-30 in the GM and 20W-50 in the VW, and that was that. My wife's 2006 Ford 500 spec'd 5W-20, but it's been running with 5W-30 for most of its 196,000 miles with no leaks, drips, etc.
Now I'm in the age of oil so thin it only has one side: 0W-16 ??? Yikes. My Jeep takes 5W-20, and every oil change I feel this pit in my stomach that somehow the oil is going to be too thin --- yeah, I know, I'm probably paranoid, but at least I'm getting over 20 mpg around town.
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My friend likes PP 5W30 in his Jeep. he says it's smooth ...
My 0W20 car is getting 10W30. May move up to x40. Not sure yet. Kind of under research.
Originally Posted by GumbyJarvis
Run a thick cleaning 5w20 first?
GTX Ultraclean 5w20 comes to mind.
