THICKER= BETTER FOR SLUDGER?

Pennzoil motor oil
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MADMIKE

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Is thicker oil better for a sludger (2001 Toyota 5sfe 2.2L)as indications are the sludge probelms in these engines are related to excessively high cylinder head temps? Will a 5w or 10w-40 protect against the excessive heat and resist breakdown better than a 5w or 10w30? Is thicker better when high internal temperatures are the
crushedcar.gif
problem? Thanks!
 
I would not think so only thing I would go with is a synthetic 5 or 10/30. Synthetic oils keep motors clean no matter what the temps
 
LOL! How "thick" can you go? 20W50 on a Toyota engine.

******************************************************

To properly maintain one of these engines, one has to observe the following:

(a) observe the most severe service oil change interval (5Kms OCI is what I would recommend)

(b) always ensure/maintaing a good, healthy PCV system (and spray wash or replace your PCV valve when it's deemed questionable.

(c) resort to using full synthetic motor oil for this engine.

If you still having second thoughts on this matter, consider doing AutoRx every 40,000kms in addition to the aforementioned service and your engine should be good for a long, long time.
 
Yet another thread based on a poor assumption. Thicker oil is no cleaner or more protective than the lowest appropriate viscosity. Run any up to date oil of appropriate viscosity and sse LC to control deposit formation and/or Auto Rx to clean existing deposits. Keep the PCV system. Having this engine family does not=sludge, This is much of the consumer base panic that would lead many to believe from here on out spinach = E-Coli.
 
I doubt it! In a sludger you must make sure that oil continues to flow. I think thinner is probably better in a sludger. By sludger I mean a vechile that is already sludged up not a model that might be prone to sludgeing but does not have any sludge. The thinner oil is not going to prevent the sludge from forming but it will prolong the amount of time that proper oil flow is maintained! It would be far better to prevent the sludge by useing an oil and OCI that works for that vechile. If need be a product like LC20 can go a long way to helping to prevent the sludge from forming.
 
Quote:

Is thicker oil better for a sludger (2001 Toyota 5sfe 2.2L)as indications are the sludge probelms in these engines are related to excessively high cylinder head temps? Will a 5w or 10w-40 protect against the excessive heat and resist breakdown better than a 5w or 10w30? Is thicker better when high internal temperatures are the
crushedcar.gif
problem? Thanks!

Click to expand...


1. What makes you think your engine is a "sludger"? A lot of assumptions seem to be made about engines, such as the need for a heavy oil if the engine was made in Germany. I wonder if anybody asks the engines what they think!

2. If you believe the theory that sludge is caused by an oil that has a lot of volatiles and low flash point (group I), then you are correct. And a lot here seem to think that. You will find as the weight of the oil goes up so does the flash point, so according to the group I evil theory sludge potential goes up. However as I have said a few times I don't think that is really the case. So I would recommend against the heavy oil, for more than just a concern about sludge.

3. Suggest all you need is a 5w30 conventional SM Starburst oil that has been tested to control sludge, and change it often. I would go for 3K but others would stretch to 5K.
 
I know it's a sludger because I got a letter from Totota saying it was prone to "gelling" and they were extending my warranty. I have been doing 3,000 mile OCI's with dino, but a recent UOA on the same engine family posted here showed that at 5,000 miles on Redline, a very expensive "boutique" full synthetic, the oil had high nitration and oxidation numbers that were at the limit of what would be considered acceptable. This made me wonder if 3,000 mile OCI's on conventional were enough to prevent similar numbers and possible sludging. Will probably go with Rotella 5w-40 full synthetic (yes I know, group III)in the cold weather months and Rotella conventional 15w40 April through October from now on. Don't want to pay almost $6 quart for group 4 or 5 full synthetics which I think are overpriced.
 
I have never seen any data that even suggests that higher viscosity oil is better for a sludge prone engine. My feelings is (no data for backup) is that a thinner oil (factory recomeded)would be better at keeping an engine clean. I would stick with a good quality conventional oil like Havoline and change at 3,000 miles or a synthetic and change at 5,000 miles.
 
Not sure what the cost is but have you considered Mobil Clean 5000. It is a conventional oil with extra detergent. Should do just fine at 3K OCI's. Also, I would question the need for a 40 wt oil. Why not simplify things and run 5w30 year around?
 
Quote:

I doubt it! In a sludger you must make sure that oil continues to flow. I think thinner is probably better in a sludger. By sludger I mean a vechile that is already sludged up not a model that might be prone to sludgeing but does not have any sludge. The thinner oil is not going to prevent the sludge from forming but it will prolong the amount of time that proper oil flow is maintained!

Click to expand...
 
Mademike seeing how your vechile does not already have sludge deposits I see no problem with your plan at all. If it were sludged up though I would not go near the 15W40. 5W40 could be run year round if you wanted too.
 
Quote:

I know it's a sludger because I got a letter from Totota saying it was prone to "gelling" and they were extending my warranty. I have been doing 3,000 mile OCI's with dino, but a recent UOA on the same engine family posted here showed that at 5,000 miles on Redline, a very expensive "boutique" full synthetic, the oil had high nitration and oxidation numbers that were at the limit of what would be considered acceptable. This made me wonder if 3,000 mile OCI's on conventional were enough to prevent similar numbers and possible sludging. Will probably go with Rotella 5w-40 full synthetic (yes I know, group III)in the cold weather months and Rotella conventional 15w40 April through October from now on. Don't want to pay almost $6 quart for group 4 or 5 full synthetics which I think are overpriced.

Click to expand...


Ah. Be careful using oxidation and nitration numbers on Redline.
It has a quirky chemistry, and if they don't calibrate JUST RIGHT some labs will actually show virgin Redline fresh out of the bottle to have high oxidation and nitration numbers.
Tell you the truth, it's the only oil I can think of where labs have that kind of problems.
 
So then is there a general consensus that any quality SM dino changed at 3,000 mile intervals should be enough prevent sludging in a sludge prone engine? (That's what I've been doing for almost 80,000 miles now since new with no problems)
 
Quote:

So then is there a general consensus that any quality SM dino changed at 3,000 mile intervals should be enough prevent sludging in a sludge prone engine? (That's what I've been doing for almost 80,000 miles now since new with no problems)

Click to expand...


That is what I would do.
 
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