The ultimate

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Ok, here is a question. Let's say that your are 60 and want to buy one last new car to drive to your grave, so to speak and in the spirit of narrowing down my question you bought a 4-door cheapest new Civic with a manual transmission.

You can do most routine maintenance at home, your retired after all but things like a timing belt, brakes, and tire balance and rotation you leave to a shop.

What is your ultimate maintenance plan will still considering your fixed income driven budget.

What fluids by brand name and spec would you use and what is your plan. Make this plan for a retirement location and for the sake of argument you get 30 days a year of possible snow and weather below 32F but never below 10F and the summer gets you temps that never exceed 100F with an average of 70F and moderate amounts of rain and if it snows you don't have to commute to work, you can just stay home or wait until it warms up a bit and is safe to drive.

This car has to last because you are healthy and you might live and drive into your 80's and there is no budget to replace it and you drive 15k a year because you and your wife take a lot of trips but also take many short trips to the store.

I'd be interested in answers because this would cover a lot of what BITOG is about. Remember, brand names, intervals, methods and reasons. This is your Father and you want the car to be safe, reliable and last. You might get it from his estate for your upcoming drivers.

There has to be many different ways to accomplish this. This could be a situation where synthetic fluids would fulfill their promise or newer conventional oils might shine and a drain and refill might be more effective than a flush and brake fluid exchanges would more than pay for themselves.
 
Penzoil Platinum w/Honda filters every 5000 miles.

Tires rotated every 6000

Air filter (done yourself) every 12000

Tranny fluid (high quality synthetic) and engine coolant done at a local shop (versus a Honda dealer) every 30,000

Timing belt at 70K, at a Honda dealership - (to ensure parts and labor warranty.)

Tune-up at a local shop at 90K.

Brake job as needed at a local shop.

Right or wrong, this is what I would do.
 
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I agree with CBD except I would change the air filter at 20K and do the tire rotation every 10K. Keeps everything in multiples of 5K and saves a little money.
 
Originally Posted By: CBDFrontier06
Penzoil Platinum w/Honda filters every 5000 miles.

Tires rotated every 6000

Air filter (done yourself) every 12000

Tranny fluid (high quality synthetic) and engine coolant done at a local shop (versus a Honda dealer) every 30,000

Timing belt at 70K, at a Honda dealership - (to ensure parts and labor warranty.)

Tune-up at a local shop at 90K.

Brake job as needed at a local shop.

Right or wrong, this is what I would do.



I'm trying to find a flaw with this plan and can't find any except changing brake fluid at the 30k/2 year intervals. Of course you could vary air filter freq. according to dust, etc.

The only thing I may add is on the 90k "tune up" or maybe at 60k (whatever honda uses for their "major maintenance" interval) I would want to have the mechanic or dealer perform all the little checks that come with a major maintenance interval. That would catch any cracked cv joint boots, adjust ebrake, check suspension items, or other unexpected items that may be there.
 
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I think CBD has a good base, I would consider what use the car is going to have, short trips v Long trips what kind of yearly mileage etc. You may find that the Tires may be pretty oil before they are half worn, in which case, you may want to save the cost of rotation toward a new set of Tires when the time comes.
I am also a fan of Silicone Brake Fluid, I think I might switch to this if the car is a 'Keeper'
Also, if I were to go 'out on a limb' you might consider an older or even 'Classic' car IN TOP CONDITION! More maintenance will be DIY friendly, the car will not look dated after 5-10 years, you may see Appreciation as opposed to Depreciation, Insurance could be lower, you would have a 'Known Quantity' with regards reputation and reliability.....The List could go on!
 
High quality conventional oil every 5000 miles:
Chevron Supreme w/ a Supertech/AA filter (I like wix myself, but they cost more $$$)

Tranny fluid changes at 50k intervals with Honda MTF

Fram air filter at 15-20k intervals

Timing belt and tune-up at 90-100k - dealership (OEM parts)
(Brake flush and power steering fluid replacement also)

Rotate tires as needed. (this depends a lot on individual car and driving style)


I like to line up all of my services at even intervals.(5k on a car like this) I think this will result in a reasonable cost maintenance program and should allow the car to go 300k miles.
 
Forgot that subject car was a manual and not an automatic. 30k is my personal rule of thumb for an automatic.
 
Basically this car with reasonable maintenance can do 20 years and what ever mileage with minimal but reasonable care.
 
Sure I have. I just can't imagine a modern car lasting 40 years.

I have a 68 roadrunner, but it's undergoing a total resto.
 
Originally Posted By: andyd
just curious, do you tink the electrics in a 2007 Honda will last 20+ yrs?

And what about the rubber? (Suspension bushings, protective boots, etc.) Seems to me most of 'em are dry and cracking starting around 10-12 years old
 
We had an 88 Accord, we still see the car around, the last I heard there were no problems. The car never had electrical problems. One front ball joint was replaced and the car went through about 5 mufflers in 300K.
Fuel consumption never varied and it never used any oil between 3k OCI's on ST Dino.
 
Synthetic fluids, higher capacity oil pan, EAO filter, EAA air filter, and knowing how to properly drive to make the car last. I think driving style and common sense is a huge factor in how long a car lasts.
 
I would look after the body mostly. Keep up on paint chips, wash it incessantly.

There was an old geezer* on my paper route (1989) who had a 1970-ish olds cutlass he washed all the time, and it looked awesome! There was that winter day when his driveway was a sheet of ice from the rinsewater.

Then he uggoed it up with extra brake lights on the package shelf, old guys, what are you gonna do?

*Think Herbert from Family Guy
 
BarkerMan,
Because of new manufacturer specs, any lubricant with a brand you recognize will suffice. I would caution you on the vehicle of choice though, as one of the above posters mentioned EASE of ENTERING and EXITING the vehicle! I don't know your age but at about 55 these smaller cars are jusT TOO LOW to the ground. Up here in the Northeast, I've noticed many in your bracketed age group opt for a Honda CRV or Toyota RAV4. I was interested in one of these for my daughter and have interogated several owners, most of whom happen to be at or near retirement age, and most say its the best choice they've ever made in a vehicle! Thats saying a lot with their experience. Before finalizing on the Civic, be sure to rent a CRV or the like, as the purchaser... may be stuck for LIFE. Change the oil every 5,000 and you'll be good. Drain and re-fill coolant every 3 years and drain and re-fill transmission every 2 years and this s/b a trouble free vehicle for 15 years in your climate.
 
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