The real reason to use single grade 30 weight...

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...it has half the Noack volatility of many multigrade oils, including synthetics! This is why a straight grade makes sense in a lawnmower: there's less burn off, fewer combustion chamber deposits, less smoke. No need for those volatile low viscosity base oils to foul things up.

Compare the Noack specs for these Mag-1 oils (www.mag1.com): SAE 30, 5w30, 10w30 and 5w30 Dexos-1 Synthetic: 6.1%, 13.7%, 11.8%, 10.5%.

So the single grade petroleum oil isn't obsolete after all.
 
Originally Posted By: SandCastle
So the single grade petroleum oil isn't obsolete after all.
Perhaps not in the case of OPE, just everything else.
 
Yes, but what about the higher oxidation rate than syn? Noak is a smaller player, in the deposit and degradation, acidification arenas.
 
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It's great if you want to ride your lawnmower to work...........
lol.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
Want low Noack in a synthetic.....look up ...Quaker State Ultimate Durability.


+1
 
Once again focusing on 1 aspect of the oils job when it needs to do everything well not just one thing great. An oil can be formulated with a very low NOACK but if it's missing all the additives it's useless
 
Originally Posted By: SandCastle
...it has half the Noack volatility of many multigrade oils, including synthetics! This is why a straight grade makes sense in a lawnmower: there's less burn off, fewer combustion chamber deposits, less smoke. No need for those volatile low viscosity base oils to foul things up.

Compare the Noack specs for these Mag-1 oils (www.mag1.com): SAE 30, 5w30, 10w30 and 5w30 Dexos-1 Synthetic: 6.1%, 13.7%, 11.8%, 10.5%.

So the single grade petroleum oil isn't obsolete after all.


The NOACK for Pennzoil Platinum 10w30 is 4.2%
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
So where are all the stories of failed low mileage engines due to higher noack?


I've said this many times on BITOG. Noack is an insidious killer. It kills slowly over several OCIs. Oil vapours from high Noack oils circulate back through the PCV to be burnt. The sticky, burnt oil residues can cause oil control rings to stick. Once this occurs, you get excessive oil loss which itself creates more problems like a dead cat.

Oil control ring stickage is the automotive equivalent of pancreatic cancer. It develops slowly and shows no symptoms. By the time you notice any symptoms, it's usually too late or you're going to need serious surgery.

To continue the medical analogy, it bugs me that the medical professionals (the API and OEMs) only seem concerned with short term health measures like losing weight (moving to ever lower viscosity oils), jogging (better FE) and eating more broccoli (stuff that does absolutely nothing but sounds good!). At the same time, they turn a blind eye to the sale of high tar cigarettes and drinks that contain masses of sugar (near 15% Noack, Group II, sloppily blended 5W30s).
 
The only thing that I see that Full Synthetic do is make your rig get better fuel mileage because your billfold is a lot lighter. Follow the money. I don't see the road full of dead cars because they are running conventional oil. I don't see any car dealers giving you more money for your trade in because you told him you ran syn oil in it.
 
Originally Posted By: Mathew_Boss
Originally Posted By: SandCastle
...it has half the Noack volatility of many multigrade oils, including synthetics! This is why a straight grade makes sense in a lawnmower: there's less burn off, fewer combustion chamber deposits, less smoke. No need for those volatile low viscosity base oils to foul things up.

Compare the Noack specs for these Mag-1 oils (www.mag1.com): SAE 30, 5w30, 10w30 and 5w30 Dexos-1 Synthetic: 6.1%, 13.7%, 11.8%, 10.5%.

So the single grade petroleum oil isn't obsolete after all.


The NOACK for Pennzoil Platinum 10w30 is 4.2%
It's actually 4.7. Most/many syn 10w30s seem to be pretty close to being straight grades with minimal VII. That's why I run Pennzoil Platinum 10w30 in my truck. I have zero need for cold start ability here.

The resource conserving multiweight 30s are too thin for OPE. Not close to SAE 30.
 
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Originally Posted By: HerrStig
The OPE owner's manual means nothing, of course. People on the 'net know more than the engineers.
I'd like to know where people get the notion that engineers always write OMs?
 
What evaporates first is the aromatic part of the mineral oil (lighter). Synthetics are more uniform and dont have much of aromatics to loose, specially those GTL and group IV and V.
 
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