The Fram HP1 is NOT just a PH8A with a heavy case...

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No problem, I'll leave the Frams for you!
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Sure, they both work when things are normal. It's the margins for error that I think are important. If the filter starts to cave in just a little, then the bypass is no longer held against the top of the can. I know it's subjective, but I applied slightly more hand pressure than you'd need to collapse an empty soda can. And that centertube is really scary; it buckles with the greatest of ease.

I understand that that Frams are not, apparently, failing "right and left." I just don't see any reason at all to buy one when you can get such obviously superior construction, for the same price, from a Champ Labs, Purolator, or Wix filter. If Fram offered these for $1.50 or so, I could see them as an option if I needed a real cheapy, but for between $5 and $10, I'm buying an M1 (CL made) or a Puro.
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quote:

The great fram troll strikes again. LOL

MUHAHAHAHAHA!!!
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I don't know, ekpolk, your hands look brutally strong... I think what you did to that filter element is far beyond the capability of the hands inside my engine...
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Besides, you may not have known your own strength, due the the adrenalin rushing through your body after seeing those cardboard endcaps...
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Yeah, when I cut a filter open and I see that cardboard, the rage begins to rise. My nostrils flare, I notice my complexion starting to take on a green hue, and my shirt starts to tighten. Next thing you know, I'm standing there with a torn shirt and a crushed filter element clutched in my fist. . .
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That, believe it or not, is the element from the size of filter spec by Nissan/Infiniti for installation on the version of the VQ35DE V-6 used in the 350Z and G35! They don't call it the "thimble filter" for nothing, and I'm not kidding when I say you can put two of them (the whole filter) into a Coke can. . .
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