The economics of reloading.

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Originally Posted By: L_Sludger



Despite the thread, I'm looking closely into a starter reloading setup just to get started. This wouldn't be for economics but more for a fun activity. I heard good stuff about the Lee presses, but if I ask five people I'd get five opinions..


Lee Presses are good, but I'd pay a little more and get a RCBS Rockchucker. You'll be glad you did.
 
Being as I stockpiled "hoarded?" components years ago, I'm able to reload 32 acp, 9 mm, 9 mm Largo, 40 S & W, 38 spec, 45 acp for the grand price of 3 to 5 cents a round.

Does that make it cost effective????????????????????????????????

I have no idea, LOL.
 
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You can count me as bitten by the bug. I picked up the RCBS Supreme kit today. I'm now equipped to reload 9mm but I also need to get dies for 40, 45, some rifle calibers, etc. I guess I'll stick with RCBS dies.

I need an online source for bullets.. Dardas has some good prices for bare lead, anyone got a supplier for jacketed rounds?

My economic analysis on the first page is kind of moot now. Looks like I can actually load up, using my existing brass, for something like ten cents per round for pistol bullets. Bigger calibers like 45 really show cost savings.

Do I have to slug all of my barrels to get the correct diameter bullets to order?
 
Originally Posted By: L_Sludger
I guess I'll stick with RCBS dies.

Not to say that RCBS does not make some good dies, but I find that Hornady dies are better--particularly for bottle neck rifle cases because they have a carbide expander that does not need lube (you still have to lube the exterior of the cases). There is no "chatter" from the expander and not having to lube the inside neck of the case means less mess and work all the way around. I have not priced them in a while, but the Hornady carbide pistol dies used to be cheaper than RCBS too.

Welcome to the club!
 
I reload .223, s&w 500, 10mm, .38spl/357mag, 40s&w, 45acp and 9mm. I don't shoot as much anymore, but it has saved me some money and I shoot way more for the money. Oh, when I reload, I DO NOT deviate from the published recommended min and max formulas. Safety first.
 
I reload only .338LM at this point, though will eventually do .308 as well. My buddy reloads .300WM. For the Lapua reloading makes a lot of sense because of the cost of factory ammo for it.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
I reload only .338LM at this point, though will eventually do .308 as well. My buddy reloads .300WM. For the Lapua reloading makes a lot of sense because of the cost of factory ammo for it.


.308 reloads will make sense too and save you some cash. I find I shoot a lot of .308. I bet you'll probably shoot 5 of them for every .338 you fire. LOL

As a side note, check some of the shooting sites for group buys on barrels. I don't frequent them much any more but I did score some great deals on Lilja, Rock and Brux barrels. You'll want one in your stash for that .338 if you shoot it a lot.
 
I started to reload about two years ago during the height of the "Great Ammo Shortage". I load 357mag, and 40S&W. Even with plentiful supply, I can't find practice ammo for the 357, just full-house defense stuff ($.85-1.25 ea.). I make a round for about $.28, or less depending on how you figure brass costs. I am still at 50% of cost for 40cal.
The main reason for reloading for me is availability. Bullets will "keep" virtually forever. Powder and primers can be stored for many years if you are careful with humidity.
I use Lee products, and again IMO; a Lee turret press gives one the ability to make up to 100 rounds per hour. It's WORLDS better than any single stage press in speed and the ability to change calibers. All you do is change the turret, recalibrate the powder drop and away you go. Their pistol dies use tungsten carbide for sizing, and make top quality ammo. Tip, upgrade the powder measure to the pro-measure.
 
I did some loading of my own in the late 60's working at the gun shop. My dad had picked up some odd ball European and American 19th century stuff that ammo was either very rare/expensive or not available at all. I had to do some adaption to cases and coble up some mods to die sets, but was able to have some sucess-all loaded to a fairly 'light' best guess!
 
Why does the "value" of your time enter into reloading? Does anyone who golfs figure in their man-hours on a putting green? How about a softball/baseball player in a batting cage; is there a cost to practice time?
For me there are two important criteria.
1. I ALWAYS have ammo. It's plentiful now, but it wasn't until recently and who knows if it will happen again. Components were hard to get at times if "hard to get" means shopping for two or three weeks to find what you wanted.
2. I can have what I want, i.e. practice/plinking, hunting, defense.
Plus, I'm a techie kind of guy, I like to make it myself if I can. The one thing I won't get into is lead casting. No interest at all.
 
Originally Posted By: 2cool
Why does the "value" of your time enter into reloading? Does anyone who golfs figure in their man-hours on a putting green? How about a softball/baseball player in a batting cage; is there a cost to practice time?
For me there are two important criteria.
Exactly. If you make tons of money and don't have any spare time and hate fiddling with stuff, reloading makes little sense. Most people watch tons of garbage on TV. Time absolutely wasted for no benefit whatsoever. Trying to put a financial value on a few hours here and there reloading makes no sense.
 
A guy on another forum posted something similar to this. My reply to you op is the same,

If you're reloading purely for economics, you're in it for the wrong reasons. Same way you change your oil. Is it cheaper? Yep. But it's also therapeutic. Change your oil on a beautiful breezy day with a beer, or reload watching an action flick or your fave tv show while having a beer. The two are quite synonymous.
 
Been reloading over 25 years. Started as a hobby, not necessarily to save money. Have loaded:

222 Remington
223 Remington
243 Winchester
270 Winchester
7mm Rem Mag
338 Win Mag
9mm Luger
38 Special
.357 Mag
9mm Mak
40 S&W
44 Rem Mag
45 ACP
45 Colt

I have very little desire to buy loaded ammo for these calibers. I’d rather work up loads to suit my purposes. In some cases, I probably don’t save any money. But in other cases, like the 223, I was able to tailor an accurate varmint load for a prairie dog hunt.

Another time I worked up a very accurate load in 338 Win Mag for a Colorado mule deer hunt. My son was using my 7mm, so I worked up a light load for the 338. It pushed a 200 gr. Hornady at about 2400 fps, was very accurate and easier on the shoulder than the 7mm Mag. Worked great on the deer as well, which took one or two steps before falling over dead.

Recently I’ve been doing some work with service length barreled .357s. With 2 ¾ and 4” barrels and 125 grain bullets, very little velocity is gained using a magnum pistol powder like H110 versus a standard pistol powder like W231. From the difference in muzzle blast, you’d think the H110 was producing much more velocity. But the chronograph says otherwise.

In a similar manner, I’ve also been working with a 18 ½” barreled 44 Rem Mag rifle. Not much velocity difference between 2400, H110, and IMR4227 with 240 gr. bullets in the longer barrel.

If you look at magnum pistol loads in the load books, you’ll typically see increases in velocity as you step through W231 - HS6 – 2400 – H110. And that may be true with 8” barrels. But go shorter or longer in barrel length and the results from the various powders don’t necessarily maintain their relative differences in performance.
 
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