"The Battery Thread Of 2019"

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Originally Posted by honeeagle
Correct me if Iam wrong ,but newer cars will take up to 30 min or more to completely shut down.So wait before checking ,even that ranger could have a slight delay.

The body control modules are still active with the key off - they enter a "sleep" mode. The more critical modules(for keyless entry/locks, anti-theft) and the ECM will be in a low power state to keep the CAN bus active and for the ECM to do its KOEO EVAP monitoring.
 
Originally Posted by nthach
Originally Posted by honeeagle
Correct me if Iam wrong ,but newer cars will take up to 30 min or more to completely shut down.So wait before checking ,even that ranger could have a slight delay.

The body control modules are still active with the key off - they enter a "sleep" mode. The more critical modules(for keyless entry/locks, anti-theft) and the ECM will be in a low power state to keep the CAN bus active and for the ECM to do its KOEO EVAP monitoring.


got it ,that explains while waiting for the wife in a car that is key off,a mulitude of functions can be heard -shut downs ?.
clicks solinides faint hisses etc etc ,goes on for a long time so not a good time to check for parasitic loads
 
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Originally Posted by Wolf359
Originally Posted by NDL
I made myself look like foolish all too easily, and I cannot edit the above post.

Of course I realize that pulling the battery cables will prevent any parasitic loss...


Yeah, you could also buy this quick disconnect so you don't have to keep loosing and tightening the connection every time. Also helps prevent car thefts.

https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Battery-Disconnect-Isolator-Positive/dp/B07W4WBZS2


Thanks for the suggestion; I did get a battery disconnect device, until I can get down to the bottom of this.

Originally Posted by jjblbi
I usually get 6 or 7 years from my original equipment VW batteries. Admittedly i only do two starts daily each day before a 65 mile commute. One thing i do is turn off all unnecessary consumers (a/c or heat, defrosters, seat heaters, etc.) a few miles before I arrive at work or home. Good luck, John


Thank you Sir

Originally Posted by Bert_c
18 year old battery cables,check them thoroughly. As for batteries,Odyssey is the only battery made of 99.9% pure lead,not recycled. My buddy swears by them,but he always has to bigger and better every one.


I will check that, thanks. One of the issues reported with the Ranger, is that a dirty ground can cause issues.

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Originally Posted by honeeagle
Correct me if Iam wrong ,but newer cars will take up to 30 min or more to completely shut down.So wait before checking ,even that ranger could have a slight delay.


You made me feel a little better!

I finally got around to performing a test, and what I did is shut off everything, but I went out to the battery a minute or two after I shut everything down.

The reading on my multimeter registered at a solid 1.167 amps.

So you're saying that I should shut the whole thing down for a solid 30+ minutes? Is it possible that the high draw could simply be my ECM? I don't have electric locks/windows, an aftermarket stereo, etc

Assuming, for the moment, that the draw didn't come from the ECM, is 1.167 amps that bad? Shouldn't it be no more than 500 miliamps? Would it take a week plus to kill a battery, with a draw of 1167 miliamps? Moreover, if the system is pulling 1167 miliamps, is that something that *needs* to be fixed, or will it simply shorten my battery life?

Thanks in advance for your time, and for educating me...all of this is a learning curve, although once I accumulate an understanding of the system, I will have that knowledge for life
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Originally Posted by jayjr1105
Pretty sure NAPA aren't JC, I can't remember who they are made by


They are made by East Penn. It even states it on the specs detail.
 
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Okay. First and foremost, I want to thank everyone for their participation on this thread; prior to this, the thought of doing anything auto electric was intimidating. I found the cause of the drain: the ground electric module is causing the drain - and that's a common cause of parasitic draw in the Ranger model.

Here's my issue: they no longer sell the part new, and when I pulled the GEM module, everything by my windshield wipers worked. If I pull a GEM module out of a similar model truck, there's a 50/50 chance that I will get a working unit.

I have a 2001 Ford Ranger XL two wheel drive model. Does anyone know if the *wiring* harnesses are compatible with all model years through 2011? I don't have electric windows, locks...nothing; everything but the wipers worked when I pulled the GEM module out of my vehicle, and I am assuming that if I pull a harness out of a 2011 work truck, it should be compatible - provided that the wiring harnesses are all the same.

Any ideas? Thank you.
 
********(EDIT TO THE ABOVE POST)********

Okay...I found an online part configurator: if I buy a used part, I can only source it from a similarly aged vehicle, give or take a year.

What do y'all think? Do these things quit often enough, that buying a used part is not a worthwhile option?

Right now I have a battery cutoff switch on the negative battery terminal; my only issue with that "fix," is that a user or two complained about the part cracking while driving, which caused the engine to shut off. I bought a NAPA (quality) cutoff switch, although anything is possible.

Thanks in advance
 
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