That time Snowblower maintenance

[JC1]

I check last month to make sure my Toro HD826 OXE would start. I did - but then it didn't go into "gear".
I emptied the oil ( which was good) tipped it on its nose and took the bottom pan off.

Toro never lubed this thing at ALL from the factory! It is but three seasons in service.
The friction wheel lay shaft was rusted and the friction wheel hub seized to it. The shaft is hexagonal.
I took some red ScotchBrite to it, wiped it with a rag then with M1 0W40FS oil a couple times, put a bit of oil on the chains and sprockets. Freed it up, tested it, then closed it up. Somehow I didnt have to take either wheel off to do this.

After this winter I'll have to get the appropriate grease. My grease gun "disappeared" I think I leant it out and never got it back.

On my previous snowblower I never greased the internals and cleaned the disc. It wasn't until I watched Donyboy73 on YouTube with all his videos that i started doing it. Trying to remove the wheels on the craftsman was tough. One of the wheels rusted to the hub. I had to remove one wheel slide the shaft off and then use my 10 ton press to push the shaft out of the wheel.

 

[tnt_motorsports]

Yes I'm in no hurry to wish for snow! What I'll appreciate is that I can wait longer before I go to clean the driveway since the added HP can tackle heavy snow.

I just got my LED light from Amazon. That will be this weekend's project to install it.

I put a pair of LED's on my Snow King Yardman last year, what a difference. I googled it and found a nice little video with all the extras you will need.

Next job if you haven't should be the impeller hack. Check YouTube for that. My 2004 has never blows snow that good. I can actually blow slush and water! I couldn't believe it.

just my $0.02

 

[JC1]

I put a pair of LED's on my Snow King Yardman last year, what a difference. I googled it and found a nice little video with all the extras you will need.

Next job if you haven't should be the impeller hack. Check YouTube for that. My 2004 has never blows snow that good. I can actually blow slush and water! I couldn't believe it.

just my $0.02

I did the impeller mod when it had it all apart. Repainted the rust changed a good portion of the bolts with new stainless steel bolts, checked the belts, cleaned and lubed everything, oil change and new spark plug.

 

[tnt_motorsports]

I did the impeller mod when it had it all apart. Repainted the rust changed a good portion of the bolts with new stainless steel bolts, checked the belts, cleaned and lubed everything, oil change and new spark plug.

She’s gonna fly!

Just my $0.02

 

[#18FAN]

I put a pair of LED's on my Snow King Yardman last year, what a difference. I googled it and found a nice little video with all the extras you will need.

Next job if you haven't should be the impeller hack. Check YouTube for that. My 2004 has never blows snow that good. I can actually blow slush and water! I couldn't believe it.

just my $0.02

To the question on LED lights best thing I have ever done is go the route of a high powered LED headlamp that wear you can look left right tun around up down and you are up over the blower looking over the chute. I do blow most of the snow in the dark before work and never go out without it.

 

[BrianF]

I used to run my old poulan with night for years. My wife bought me a led headlamp which was a game changer. My 1028e has a headlight but I still run my headlamp. I also do as much snowblowing at night as I can.

 

[Duffyjr]

Yes I'm in no hurry to wish for snow!

I hear ya, I"ll gladly service my blowers and not use them, wouldn't bother me a bit.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

A lot of these machines are shipped on a pallet partially assembled, and then final assembly is finished at the place they are sold. You wouldn't believe the differences I've seen between machines assembled at the dealer, assembled at home, and assembled at a big box store by someone making minimum wage. The first thing I do when I get a newer machine in for service is check all the lube points and make sure the bolts are actually in place.

This was assembled by careless dolts at the Toro Dealer. I thin they only had to put on the bars and the chute and dump the oil into it.
The machining should be lubed from the factory. I don't think wage makes a big difference - its attitude.
The next spring I took hours to get that machine setup well. Scraper was not level. Valve lash wrong (super tight).

All I had to do on my Yardman MTD "Walmart Special" across 27 years was change the oil and air up the tires periodically.
It didnt even need a sparkplug - which is appropriate they should last the designed lifetime (short hours) of the engine.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

My auction find / deal that got me an Ariens had real heavy springs on the auger lever. They needed modification for comfort.

A good hand lever design will over-center when engaged, so there is no excessive spring "pullback"
Simple mechanical engineering apparently not known or taught to them young "Cad Jockeys"

The engagement levers on the Toro are too short, and the pivot point is in the incorrect place.
Surprising and Unforgivable.
I backed off the engagement as far as I could without entertaining sheave or friction wheel slippage.

And I did - like I suppose you did - stretch out the return springs a bit

- Thanks, Ken

 

[JTK]

On my previous snowblower I never greased the internals and cleaned the disc. It wasn't until I watched Donyboy73 on YouTube with all his videos that i started doing it. Trying to remove the wheels on the craftsman was tough. One of the wheels rusted to the hub. I had to remove one wheel slide the shaft off and then use my 10 ton press to push the shaft out of the wheel.

I've never worked on one that had much of any lubrication on the drive system parts. Too much will sling grease onto the friction disk and plate so you have to be mindful of that.

If the shafts are really bad, I'll clean them up and then apply a light coat of marine grease. I use the same on the wheel hubs/axles.

Another trouble spot on the cheaper machines is the outboard bearings that the idler shaft rides in. They're typically on the frame between the wheels and frame. Those bearings seize up. The shaft can continue to spin inside the bearing or spin the whole bearing inside the retainer cup, depending on which has traces of lube on it.

Auger shaft bearings can do the same thing.

 

[repairman54]

I also retrofitted some heated hand grips on both my blowers. I think the kit was from MTD, can't remember for sure.
Older machines don't have the higher power light coil like the newer machines with factory heated grips so heat is not super great but they help some when your holding onto those vibrating "popsicles" . LED light leaves more power for the grips and still is bright.

 

[jeepman3071]

This was assembled by careless dolts at the Toro Dealer. I thin they only had to put on the bars and the chute and dump the oil into it.
The machining should be lubed from the factory. I don't think wage makes a big difference - its attitude.
The next spring I took hours to get that machine setup well. Scraper was not level. Valve lash wrong (super tight).

All I had to do on my Yardman MTD "Walmart Special" across 27 years was change the oil and air up the tires periodically.
It didnt even need a sparkplug - which is appropriate they should last the designed lifetime (short hours) of the engine.

Unfortunately a lot has changed in 27 years.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Unfortunately a lot has changed in 27 years.

True words spoken.

 

[Quantico]

got my Snow King ready today. The old girl still runs pretty good for a 2004. I changed the oil and went with Super Tech FS 10W30 high mileage. The machine is kept in my garage so not worried about the 10W30. I also changed the auger belt.

My tractors are 1986. My ariens is a 1966 and my simplicity is around the year 2000. All work fine.

 

[Quantico]

The hex shaft where the rubber tire moves to select speed and direction does not need fancy grease or lube. A finger full of mobil 1 oil or a finger full of grease should be good for a long time.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

The hex shaft where the rubber tire moves to select speed and direction does not need fancy grease or lube. A finger full of mobil 1 oil or a finger full of grease should be good for a long time.

Thats what I did, clean it and put some motor oil on it. I wishIi had some LiquiMoly, MoS2 left, that would have been perfect. Group III and PAO Synthetic does not cling to metal - better off with some hamburger fat or bacon grease.
Would have been nice if the dope at the FACTORY put some oil on it so it would not have rusted and seized.
This whole machine has been a giant frustration and botched build and design. Even the tires went completely flat during a cold spell. Never had any issues with my "bargain" priced MTD built machine. I always thought Toro was garbage, I don't know why I bought he thing; I was Lured buy the Joy stick chute control I suppose.