Testing remote keyless entry kit before installing

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Apr 27, 2010
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Bought a NOS Ford accessory RKE kit for my 2003 E150 wagon a year ago, and just getting around to install it. Before I do, I'd like to bench test it before going to the trouble of putting it in. Here is the wiring diagram,

rke.jpg


From what I see, I just need to connect A-5 to battery negative and A-4 to battery positive. Then using a test light connected to ground, hold the other end to either A-2 or A-14 or A-1 or A-21 and press the remote's buttons and the test light will flash. When I do, nothing happens. The remote has a new battery and the signal is good. It comes pre-programmed as well. Am I missing something?
 
Since those outputs trigger a relay, I don't think you'll get it to power a test light. Maybe try a multimeter and check for continuity?
 
It should work as you have it connected. Is it possible that it's not actually pre-programmed? Can you easily get it into programming mode? I have used a regular light switch (the kind used in your house and which you probably have laying around if you've done any electrical work) to simulate an ignition switch for getting a keyless entry module into programming mode without it being installed.
 
Turns out the remotes weren't programmed. After programming it tests fine. Got everything connected except for the the blue and green Door Lock and Unlock wires. What are those two relays on the diagram for? They didn't come in the kit. Why can't I just connect the wires directly to the Door Lock and Unlock wires in the truck harness?
 
Turns out the remotes weren't programmed. After programming it tests fine. Got everything connected except for the the blue and green Door Lock and Unlock wires. What are those two relays on the diagram for? They didn't come in the kit. Why can't I just connect the wires directly to the Door Lock and Unlock wires in the truck harness?

Usually, keyless entry modules without built-in relays do NOT have enough current capacity to handle the current draw of lock solenoids. Therefore they require you to use relays. (Meaning, if you attempt to use it without the relays, you could destroy it).
 
Control units do have relays inside, but they are usually not for the door lock/unlock outputs unless it specifically says so in the documentation.

The power supply to the relay coil is the 12V applied to terminal 85 by the module.

EDIT: After looking at the diagram again, the A15/RED/SIREN FEED connection is what is connected to the door locks via the relay. Is that a 12V output? The diagram does not say. If it is a 12V output, then that is what is powering the door lock solenoids via the relays.

It could also be a ground. You would have to check. If it is a ground, then the locks are powered from a 12V source elsewhere, and the relays and lock switches actuate the solenoid by grounding the lock wires.
 
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EDIT: After looking at the diagram again, the A15/RED/SIREN FEED connection is what is connected to the door locks via the relay. Is that a 12V output? The diagram does not say. If it is a 12V output, then that is what is powering the door lock solenoids via the relays.
It has 12V with the module connected. Odd that it's smaller gauge wire than the lock outputs.
 
It has 12V with the module connected. Odd that it's smaller gauge wire than the lock outputs.

Looking at the diagram again, you'll have to use the external relays.

Here is why.

Notice that, for the door lock output, you have to cut a brown wire and connect one side of it to term 30 and the other to term 87a on the relay.

Term 30 is the Common terminal

Term 87a is the Normally Closed terminal

Term 87 is the Normally Open terminal, which is connected to 12V.

At rest, term 30 and term 87a are connected together.

But when it activates the door lock output, it disconnects term 87a and connects term 87 to term 30, applying 12V to the wire connected to term 87 and nothing to the wire connected to term 87a.

And it's an identical situation with the door unlock output.

It's probably REQUIRED to disconnect one side of the lock wiring when applying the lock and unlock output because the wires probably rest at ground (the power lock switches probably ground the wires when they aren't being pushed, it's a common way that power door locks are done in older vehicles--if you have a wiring diagram for most any Ford vehicle from the 80s or 90s, look at the wiring diagram for the power locks and it should become clear how it works).

And if you just tried to connect the lock output directly to the lock wiring without an external relay---you'll get a short circuit.

The keyless entry module I used with internal relays has 3 wires for the lock output: Common, Normally Open, Normally Closed. And for the unlock output, 3 wires: Common, Normally Open, Normally Closed.

So it could be used with this type of door lock wiring without needing external relays.
 

No you want a Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT) relay like this:


EDIT: The relay you show is a Single Pole Single Throw (SPST) relay.

SPDT relays are also called changeover relays.
 
I can get those locally for about the same price. The sockets are another story. Don't want a pigtail, just the connector and terminals like this but can't find it locally.

61fyvnBLM-L._SL1000_.jpg
 
I can get those locally for about the same price. The sockets are another story. Don't want a pigtail, just the connector and terminals like this but can't find it locally.

Not surprising, the "DMV" isn't known for having a lot of industrial type businesses so there aren't a lot of industrial type suppliers that sell stuff like that around here. Arcade Electronics in Alexandria is about the only place I could think of that would sell the connector and terminals like that.

But unless you have the right crimp tool for those open-barrel terminals, a pigtail is a better and more reliable choice.
 
You can get 1/4" spade lugs at Lowes in their electrical section. Those work fine with "normal" Bosch relays.

HF even has a useful tackle box of electrical connectors.
 
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