Hi all,
I have a Toyota MR2 which some may know is a PITA to change the coolant on. I bought the car quite recently, so I do not know when the coolant was last changed.
I have read on various forums, including this one, that by measuring voltage drop in between the battery and coolant in the filler neck, you can check the remaining life of the coolant.
Instructions for checking coolant life are :
Check your coolant conductivity with a multimeter.
1. Start with cold engine
2. remove radiator cap
3. start motor
4. Set voltmeter to 'DC' (20 volts or less)
5. after reaching operating temp, insert positive (+) probe into coolant.
6. Rev engine to approx 2k and place probe onto negative (-) side of battery.
7. If the meter reads less than .4 volts your coolant is good.
Theory behind this is that electrolysis causes corrosion, and that coolant, over time, will lose its ability to insulate electric current from metal parts of the engine (radiator, water pump etc.).
Of course, theory and reality are completely different things, so if anyone has a experience with using this method, please let me know.
Some thoughts that I have right now are that electrolysis isn't the only source for corrosion, and that in regards to the procedure itself, how is it possible to run the engine to operating temps without the cap, much less run the car at all, without making a massive mess?
Cheers, Kevin
I have a Toyota MR2 which some may know is a PITA to change the coolant on. I bought the car quite recently, so I do not know when the coolant was last changed.
I have read on various forums, including this one, that by measuring voltage drop in between the battery and coolant in the filler neck, you can check the remaining life of the coolant.
Instructions for checking coolant life are :
Check your coolant conductivity with a multimeter.
1. Start with cold engine
2. remove radiator cap
3. start motor
4. Set voltmeter to 'DC' (20 volts or less)
5. after reaching operating temp, insert positive (+) probe into coolant.
6. Rev engine to approx 2k and place probe onto negative (-) side of battery.
7. If the meter reads less than .4 volts your coolant is good.
Theory behind this is that electrolysis causes corrosion, and that coolant, over time, will lose its ability to insulate electric current from metal parts of the engine (radiator, water pump etc.).
Of course, theory and reality are completely different things, so if anyone has a experience with using this method, please let me know.
Some thoughts that I have right now are that electrolysis isn't the only source for corrosion, and that in regards to the procedure itself, how is it possible to run the engine to operating temps without the cap, much less run the car at all, without making a massive mess?
Cheers, Kevin