I have a question. Right now, I use conventional oil in my cars. If I switched to synthetic oil, could I ever switch back to conventional oil if I wanted to. If I did go back to conventional oil, do I have to do anything special or different. I'm asking because I was told that when you switch to synthetic, you can't go back to conventional.
Synthetics
- Thread starter kcirdnek
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for the guy who said you can't switch back, ask him if he knows what "synthetic" motor oil really is.
Then explain to him it's an abused word. In the past, the word had some merrit because it referred to PAO and ester-based oils (group IV and V) which are synthesised in the lab and had better properties than conventional petroleum based oils of the time. Today, there's group III oil which is just highly refined petroleum oil which can legally be sold as "full synthetic" oil. If you've ever wondered why some full syn oils are sold for only $2-3 a quart vs $4-5 a quart for other name brand synthetics, it's because they're primarily all group III oil and have little or none of the more expensive group IV and V oil. An example would be walmart supertech full-synthetic, sold around $12 a gallon vs. Mobil-1 at $20 a gallon.
And to top it all off, most full synthetics on the shelf literally are a blend, because they can have a combination of some ester-based oil, some PAO, and group I, II, or III oil, for reasons of holding the oil's additives in suspension, adjusting viscosity or adjusting for seal compatibility. So to say you can't go back to conventional oil is really ignorant, because you've still been using it all along (just in different proportions) and it all blends together anyway.
Then explain to him it's an abused word. In the past, the word had some merrit because it referred to PAO and ester-based oils (group IV and V) which are synthesised in the lab and had better properties than conventional petroleum based oils of the time. Today, there's group III oil which is just highly refined petroleum oil which can legally be sold as "full synthetic" oil. If you've ever wondered why some full syn oils are sold for only $2-3 a quart vs $4-5 a quart for other name brand synthetics, it's because they're primarily all group III oil and have little or none of the more expensive group IV and V oil. An example would be walmart supertech full-synthetic, sold around $12 a gallon vs. Mobil-1 at $20 a gallon.
And to top it all off, most full synthetics on the shelf literally are a blend, because they can have a combination of some ester-based oil, some PAO, and group I, II, or III oil, for reasons of holding the oil's additives in suspension, adjusting viscosity or adjusting for seal compatibility. So to say you can't go back to conventional oil is really ignorant, because you've still been using it all along (just in different proportions) and it all blends together anyway.
Switch back and forth as much as you like. The question is, why? IMO if it's well maintained it shouldn't be a problem, if it has over 75,000 miles then run an Auto-RX cleaning before switching to synthetic. My arbitrary 2 cents.
the post by FMF is very well put.in retail sales,i am offen asked the same question.i
usually conclude by saying any oil that has an
API rating(donut)is compatable with each other or else stores would have to post warnings on which oils not to mix.changing from one brand to another,even a change in oil weights may sometimes 'temporily' increase or decrease oil consumption for an change or two.
usually conclude by saying any oil that has an
API rating(donut)is compatable with each other or else stores would have to post warnings on which oils not to mix.changing from one brand to another,even a change in oil weights may sometimes 'temporily' increase or decrease oil consumption for an change or two.
Welcome to Bobistheoilguy kcirdnek!
What Ugly3 said. Though just to add to it on my own experiences.
We have a 94 Grand Caravan with 166K miles and it's been using Valvoline Maxlife most of it's life. I checked the oil in it 1 day and it was approx. 1 quart low from full. I had a full quart of M1 5w30 laying around so I decided to dump that in there and that I thought it would help clean up some sludge in the engine. Well sure enough, not even a week later it started to leak oil. This is a good sign to let me know that M1 was cleaning the engine.
Though I think if your going to switch to synthetic for the first time, I would do an Auto-rx treatment www.auto-rx.com prior to the switch.
As far as switching from synthetic to conventional, not a problem! Anytime you want to switch just dump the old synthetic and throw whatever you want to in there. Hope this helps,,,,,AR
What Ugly3 said. Though just to add to it on my own experiences.
We have a 94 Grand Caravan with 166K miles and it's been using Valvoline Maxlife most of it's life. I checked the oil in it 1 day and it was approx. 1 quart low from full. I had a full quart of M1 5w30 laying around so I decided to dump that in there and that I thought it would help clean up some sludge in the engine. Well sure enough, not even a week later it started to leak oil. This is a good sign to let me know that M1 was cleaning the engine.
Though I think if your going to switch to synthetic for the first time, I would do an Auto-rx treatment www.auto-rx.com prior to the switch.
As far as switching from synthetic to conventional, not a problem! Anytime you want to switch just dump the old synthetic and throw whatever you want to in there. Hope this helps,,,,,AR
Well, neither of my cars burn oil. Okay, my next question is: What kind of oil to use? Which brand and what grade? I have a 1996 Impala SS 180,000 on it and a 1998 Honda Accord V6 with 203,000 on it. Also, my girlfriend has a 1997 Chrysler Sebring V6 with about 130,000 on it.
[ November 11, 2004, 02:55 PM: Message edited by: kcirdnek ]
[ November 11, 2004, 02:55 PM: Message edited by: kcirdnek ]
Mr. Trahan,
What oil are you currently using in those cars? What OCI?
Pretty amazing that with those kind of miles you're not burning any oil...
[ November 11, 2004, 03:25 PM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
What oil are you currently using in those cars? What OCI?
Pretty amazing that with those kind of miles you're not burning any oil...
[ November 11, 2004, 03:25 PM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
None of the cars are burning any oil and there are no leaks. Right now, in my Honda Accord and my girls Chrsler Sebring, I put that new oil from Castrol Startup 5W-30. I changed the oils in both cars a couple of weeks ago. In my Heavy Chevy, I can't remember what weight oil is in there but it is what is recommended by GM and it is by Castrol also but it is not the startup brand.
What is OCI?
I've heard of that auto-rx. Is it worth doing?
Maybe I should just keep them conventional since I'm not having any problems.
[ November 11, 2004, 06:53 PM: Message edited by: kcirdnek ]
What is OCI?
I've heard of that auto-rx. Is it worth doing?
Maybe I should just keep them conventional since I'm not having any problems.
[ November 11, 2004, 06:53 PM: Message edited by: kcirdnek ]
Auto-RX = Couldn't hurt, clean the motors out a bit and condition the seals.
First making sure the engine is generally clean will help synthetic oil in it's main functioin, long intervals. Either keep the first one or two synth intervals short or do a few short changes of dino before the synth switchover. Mobil 1 is probally the only synth worth messing with. Motorcraft or Mobil Drive Clean GF-4 rated 5w-30 will work well in the dino price range.
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